Plymouthy Adams

did you get all 13?

Today I turned the 10-24 pan head screws down on the lathe and they look a lot better than before....kinda a semi-Fillister look but not like a dropped cow patty of the panhead. Trimmed my poly bushings to length for the dog bone stabilizers and cut some anti-crush sleeves....rained a bit....machine shop time. I need to shop where Sniper shops.....my hardware store had zero 10-32 stocked........but 10-24 hardware...multiple blister packs of various sizes.

sorry, but I have to report I do not....the only real reason I am familiar with the GM module in any degree is that it was also used on an Italian sport car of the era as I am assisting a fellow foreign car enthusiast with his ignition on his retrofit project.....I am not a GM fan and it is therefor not a car I go out of my way to work with. I am not even sure if you are looking for the coil beneath the cap or a later e-coil.

you don't even need to have the electrical connected except to the start....a bypass switch for solenoid and a hot wire to the coil....are we starting the car or are we going out to spin the wheels off the moment it hits...this has blossomed greatly...while are are valid points...remember the object is to test fire the engine.

historic photos and documents carry much weight...YT is not so much a factor in authenticity as the cars these people are showing are used and they are but one of many owners since new....what could and did happen to these cars over their lifetime cannot be documented. It is therefore an avenue that can be argued both ways. Even with this we know some facts in the books are incorrect. Much gets changed, added and flat out not shown in some documents as the books often are off to be printed before the car hit the showroom floor...last minute details are thus omitted. The number matching game is also slippery slope...I have stumped that panel on more than one occasion and tons of questions that never can been proven one way or the other. Some of the gurus say it is not so....but at the same time that cannot say why it is not so....and further cannot even pin point the part number to any one make model or year.

your first pic...these are not correct for the Dodge inasmuch as they do not have studs....that model uses wheel bolts....the second on looks correct....

establish if 6 or 12 volt and correct polarity of the charging system....check the condition of the radiator hoses and radiator so if it does fire over you will maintain temperature control. Your fuel system needs flushed if running from the tank....or at least by-passed for first start up. Check you oil line between the engine and firewall is not split. THIS is just to fire it up...by no means should it be driven even in the yard till items like the brakes are accessed....

similar set up we had...before Ma Bell come to the area....we had one that was connected to our neighbor back of the house and up the hollow. We would talk on this...they had kids my age. I have that very same phone as a decorator piece hanging in the entrance foyer....better yet I knew the original owner of this thing and I have her original pump organ also in the same entrance hall.....dang.....maybe I am getting old....

I am not so sure if the soul left the body or that in my later years some things now have a good deal more importance to me. Looking back over my work career....I have no complaints...I have led a very 'pampered' life in the work arena with little to no exposure to the elements. I am glad you enjoy what you are doing in your job...that is most important to success and sanity.

At one time I had a higher tolerance for live music...not sure where/when it turned sour on me but will take a good stab at 1976....Oh I can tolerate it at such functions like a large social event like the reunion...and I probably have attended my last one of those. Nothing to do with getting older as much as it is getting on with what "I" want out of life now that I am retired.

oh yeah....I think Jasper was green....but been a long time since I seen a fresh Jasper of this vintage. Anyway....silver is the go to in my book....BUT any color you want is CORRECT.....just don't expect a 100 point for engine cosmetics at the show.....lol

Got a few bits of the hardware to see me though this one mod only for now....got to put this section to bed so to speak and move on. My local ACE had zero stock of 10-32....I do not know why in this area when you get larger than an 8 they drop the 32 TPI inventory and go 10-24 only....

never been much for live music...it slays me to hear a butcher job of a studio recording.....was going to hit the farmers market coming through town till I saw the band off to the right.....passed on by....ole fuddy duddy me....!!

your instruction included and as shown says this same thing as his e-mail...

follow the paperwork with the ring set....they maker provided this for guidance on install. Read careful identification of the ring as to orientation as to what side points up.....mostly this is a taper undercut, a square cut or could be identified by a slight dimple on side of the ring itself. Each maker has their own method....sometimes it mimics stock..sometimes not...the why for you must read the install sheet carefully.

per my motors it say the 230 6cyl. got the WW3-1xx

glad you changed that, was looking up the phone number for your local health clinic to schedule you an audiogram.

I just head Stand by your Man by Jake and Elwood......oh yeah....got Twiggy in the Jag XKE...and................... THIS IS GLUE, STRONG STUFF.....!

consider it a partial payment for all those free apps.....

I have about concluded that the Fillister head will be the closest I can find....would it be worth chucking in the lathe and cutting the slight roll off the top for the right look.....only 8 needed and I think I may test cut one just to see.... Actually I find 10-24 hardware at Lowe's in better selection than 10-32. Its 12-24 that is a killer and I usually always have to order. Last trip to Lowes was disappointing as the hardware was in poor supply and picked over and bins comingled to where it was best just to walk away. I just bought 10-32 stainless to the tune of about 400 pieces. I will inventory and bump my #8 hardware stock up next along with some 1/4-20 bolts and nuts...getting low there.

it is not due to people not reading the full impact of the user agreement......how can they be so bold is the better question.

pipe down punk......!!! ? I just picked cut and sliced some fresh nectarines off my tree and making a cobbler......NO COBBLER FOR YOU

look above that starter and you will see that may be the NORMAL gear reduction starter as this may be stuck on on a 340 engine.....now the smaller footprint gear reduction starter per the factory Vs can be found as one example, on Dodge Dakota as stock...

due to heat soak there is always a chance of percolation at the carb....this is often however kept in check by the maker in relation to the actual float level keeping this in check. As the fuels have advance and the addition of alcohol to the fuel...folks forget that the books have not taken this into account over the decades and continue to follow the original specs thus many are inducing problems especially in the area of percolation due to the expansion rate of the fuel at operating temperature. I would be willing to bet that many here would NEVER outrun the pump delivery to the carb even at a lesser fuel level during any WOT run as my guess is not many here will make a WOT on the flathead as normal driving.