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The thermostat determines when the bypass opens allowing coolant to circulation to the radiator. It's secondary purpose is to provide a restriction to the rate of flow of coolant through the radiator, if it passes througn it returns to the engine tooh too quickly it doesn't cool as much as it should. Then the warmer coolant absorb the amount of heat that it should be carrying out. The degree temp rating doesn't really have a lot to do with the normal operating temperature of the engine. A 180 stat doesn't mean your engine runs at 180. Most folks get nervous when the needle sits at 190 because they are thinking of water boiling ar 212, forgetting that 50 50 mix is good to 230 before it begins to boil. Most engines more efficiently around 190 or even more in newer cars. Also, think of air-cooled engines, they run a lot hotter they are made of the same stuff and they don't melt as long as there is oil in them. They usually run at 250 plus and 3 to 4 hundred under load. The first question when you get hot under the collar should be how hot is hot? Then how hot is too hot?

Wow. I passed a vintage car a few years back on my way to work jn my46. I pulled into the. C store for a news paper and coffee and the fellow pulled in next to me. It was then I saw the Despto BadgIng, he said it was a 37 was a coupe In black original car with 80k miles. I couldnt get over how stunning the grill and front end design was.. we chatted for a short time regarding our cars,, he had dual exhaust and was interested in my dual intake set up. He was on his way to the Auto Museum in Saratoga Springs for a show and to visit some friends. Taking the blue roads the car was made for. Nice looking car you don't see many of these days. The coil to distributor situation looks a little suspect from here.

And you sure you are in high range? Engine compression breaking in low range would be akin to downshifting a manual into second in anticipation of a sharp turn or coming to a stop sign.

Enginebraking should be not much different than a manual shift car in high (1 to 1) gear.

https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Replacement-1-Barrel-Carburetor-Dodge-Plymouth-Slant-6--N7001_p_3860.html

Key questions on value Does it run? What are the compression numbers? Does it smoke? Does it exhibit symptoms of blow by? How bad does some one need it? How bad do you want it gone? 15 years ago, I bought a 56 230 that I was told ran when pulled. I got it for 175.00 complete from water pump to e brake. Carb to oil pan. I knew I was going to rebuild it. My target was no more than 250.00. As for the 218 that it replaced, it still sits in the garage. I would probably let it go for 100.00 picked up here. It ran when pulled, compression was from 90 to 110 and it blew smoke on deceleration and long down hills.

Thr pioneer bolts are very similar if not the same as the Summit. I have posted pictures and part numbers several times. You might want to search for headbolts under my member posts.

Looks like Don could use a doughnut. Would probable seal better with less torque on the wounded ear.

Where does it go? If between the ex manifold and pipe I believe it just a flange gasket.

Don't use these. https://www.amazon.com/KNS-Accessories-KA5003-Chrome-Cleaner-Louver/dp/B0718TJSK4/ref=asc_df_B0718TJSK4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=331754389630&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=737612170786841105&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005117&hvtargid=pla-652286436462&psc=1

They will probably work. But it looks as if the base if oriented differently from the carter's as to how the throttle align. This may cause you some difficulty adapting pedal linkages and fuel lines.. When running duals you need to consider that each carburetor will now be flowing half the air as in a single set up. So less venturi effect, less fuel pulled through each main jet. In theory you might think you need leaner mains as there are now two, but in reality, you may need richer jets to get the same fuel to air ratio as the flow through a single carb supplies. You might want to look at Daytona Carbs. I believe they make a similar carb but with main jets you can adjust externally. And with either set up you want to avoid those Mr. Gasket 4 inch paper element ait filters that people love to run on their flathead ford's. They do not provide sufficient air flow for your needs. And don't forget you are probably going to want some 3/4 or 1 inch thick phenolic spacers and a couple home fabricated sheet metal heat shields under the float bowls. SHOWN BELOW IS A CURRENT SPACER GASKET HEAT SHIELD that should work to good advantages as a spacer and shield. These carbs are very similar to what was used on most slant sixes. So you might want to take a look at the slant six forum and see if there is discussion on their use in those installations. https://scoutparts.com/1BBL_Carburetor_Base_Gasket_With_Heat_Shield_Isolator_860449R1_Scout_80_Scout_800/p13375?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiqHgsoHP8gIVDpfICh0RDgRaEAQYBiABEgIfyvD_BwE

Not quit enough notice to make the trip.Have fun, post pictures.

It's got bullseye headlights. Support vehicle for Peking to Paris Rally... Also answers the "What if I use a truck to make a speedster?" question. Did itm mybe start as a brush fire control truck?

The normal is a 6v group one. You might be better off to look at Tractor Supply, Runnings, Farm and Fleet or similar. Also look for interstate battery warehouses, or battery world,they usually handles exide. Napa usually can get them also. Also note you are working on a positive ground system, and 6volt likes 0 gauge primary cables. I believe the battery is under the floor under the driver's seat. Make sure when you install the battery into the box, nothing metal willaccidently connect the posts or clamps when you get it in the box. You are looking for at least 700 cold cranking amps rating. Last one I bought 2 years ago was a preditor brand for 79.00 bucks.

Don't over tighten the side covers. They use the thumb screws to keep you from bending the covers . Leave the pliers and channel locks in the tool box! Do check them while they are off. A little tinkering with a light hammer and good sized drift can help improve their sealing abilities.

Got it, thanks.

Stainless steel, copper or brass pot and pan scrubber will work fine. Get the skinniest strands you can find. Pack it in in 5he round spot the bolt goes through.

I am getting a message that says I need to delete messages from in box in order to send messages. Don't know what the inbox has to do with out going stuff, but I will comply if I knew how. We here do I go? Do I need to open each message to delete or is there a batch delete I am not seeing?

Your compression is kind of low, should be around 100. So would suspect worn rings causing more crankcase pressure than normal. Watch your oil level if it gets down to add, run it till it below add and see if that changes the quantity of flow. My dad ran his dodge flatheads at the add mark. Thar seemed to relieve a lot of leaking from various places.

Has your oil been diluted by gas? Does it smell gassy? How is your compression, is the breather cap flowing air?

`Is name w a s Mr. NORMAL, MR ABNORMAL. I have been running Ac45r since the rebuild going on 15 years and 50k miles. They are infact the same plugs installed at the time. I have pulled them 3 or 4 times to check the gap and see how they are holding up. I set my gap at .032. They still look like everything is as it should be combustion wise. No deposits, nice gray tan color, no visible pitting or erosion of the ground electrode. I carry a set of the equivalent autolites pre gapped in the event a fault may come up. Starts well runs great. No radio so static isn't an issue. My spark plug wire are from Tractor Supply. Copper core universal trim as needed set. Not sure they carry them anymore. They are holding up well, no light show after dark, no problems in or after driving or sitting in the rain.

Just measured the p15 218 in the garage. The inner side of the ring gear is 1.5 inches from the flat of the engine casting in the area adjacent to the Welsh plug. Don't know if that will help you I took it there because the bellhousing is off but the flywheel is still in place.

The 201/218 flywheel should bolt on, but you will need to align it with the holes that line up. One caution, the crate engine might have a thicker crankshaft flange. Measure them before you bolt things together and find the starter won't extend far enough to fully engage the ring gear. Don C came up against that but his swap was from 230 to 251. It may or may not be an issue with your change over.

Wow looks like a fun event lots interesting old iron.