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About James-48-B1B-108

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  • Yahoo
  • Biography
    BSEE with some Mechanical Eng. 38 Yrs Design Engineering.
  • Occupation
    Electronic Engineer

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Glen Ellyn, IL
  • Interests
    Hobby Farming, New Product development & design, Automotive Restoration Projects, Welding, Programming.
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Dodge B-1-B-108 1/2 Ton Pickup.<br />
    1948 Ford 8N Tractor.<br />
    1974 Corvette Roadster


  • Location
  • Interests
    Singlehandedly acheiving world piece, finding the cure for the common cold

Recent Profile Visitors

519 profile views
  1. Yes it was copper, I'll give it a try, pretty interesting, thanks.
  2. As a final follow-up, I finally got back to the truck and took the calipers to the gasket I found in the drain pan and the drain plug itself, and measured 22mm ID X 30mm OD X 1.5mm Thickness. Found: 20Pcs 22x30x1.5mm Copper Crush Washer Flat Ring Seal Gasket Fitting M22 on Amazon.com for $7.99 with free shipping. Thanks again for your help.
  3. Thank you all for your input, I've been traveling and couldn't check my topic string until today. The truck is up in the barn which is 250 miles north of where I live, and now that I know it needs a washer, I will have to locate a new one and bring it up with my next visit. That is extremely helpful for sure.
  4. Changed the oil on my '48 B1B and the drain plug slipped from my fingers and fell in the oil change pan. After the oil was fully drained, I reached into the collection pan and fished out the drain plug, threaded it back in the oil pan to a reasonable torque. I filled the crank case with fresh oil and then proceeded to empty the collection pan into an old jug. When empty, on the bottom of the pan I found a large copper compression washer of a size that looked about right to be able to fit around the drain plug. Is there supposed to be a washer around the drain plug ? ? I'm not eager to drain the new oil to check this out and not surprisingly, I can't find any diagrams that show a detail of the pan and plug. There doesn't seem to be any seepage of fresh oil around the drain plug. I would very much appreciate a dose of your knowledge on this and apologize for making a short story long.
  5. Regarding possible (perhaps probable) causes of the engine being locked up, for what it might be worth, I have an extra engine and transmission which I could only turn back and forth a few degrees by wrenching the manual crank nut on the damper pully. On removing the head and oil pan I could see that the pistons moved up and down a very small amount but the exhaust valves were frozen in their guides and were the total cause of the lockup. Replacing those bad valves and their guides was all that was needed for the engine to turn freely. The bad part is that removing frozen valves in a flathead motor is no easy task.
  6. What phenomenal support, thank you all, very much ! Now I'm itching to get to the barn and finish installing it. I hope that after a learning period, I can provide such help to others in the community.
  7. I have finally acquired a spring for the Glove Box in my 1948 Dodge B1B and pocket like installation point on the bottom of the door itself is the obvious connection point, but where does the other end of the spring attach. Would really appreciate some instruction on this.
  8. Thanks for the information, so it would be either an E7B1, E7C1 or E7F1 as delivered for the 1948 B1B. I'll start looking for one of those.
  9. Only been at this for a year, and I'm hoping to draw on your collective knowledge. The 1948 B1B-108 1/2 Ton Pickup I have has a Carter Ball & Ball Model D6H2 which I am told is not the original model for that application, what was the factory installed model for that year and model pickup built mid-year in Detroit? Thanks very much for your help.
  10. Great post Jocko_51_B3B ! I have a 1948 B-1-B with a spare engine which I have started to rebuild and has several exhaust valves frozen to the guides. The one that was frozen partly open I was able to use a large channel lock pliers to rotate back and forth to free up, BUT of course, those in the closed position don't permit grabbing with a pliers. So if you don't mind, I have a few questions relating to your post regarding welding nuts to the top of the valve head to provide a place to grab and twist free. 1. would you mind providing as many details as possible about your weldments: (all around the hex, inside the thread area, etc.)? 2. how large of a size nut did you use? 3. How critical was centering of the nut to minimize shear forces? 4. What welding system did you use (ie. Stick, MIG, Oxyfuel, etc.)? 5. How readily did the valve face bead accept penetration? 6. Did you end up replacing the offending valve guides along with those valves? THANK YOU very much for any and all information you would share, I'm determined to save my engine block. James
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