greg g

So wizard followed suggestions from this forums content and put a 92 Explorer tear axle under his 54 Plymouth. There is a u tube post on his channel. He gives thr forum a couple ot three shoutouts.. some of his numbers are a bit off, doubt his engine was turning 4 k at 60. Mine with 4.11s was 3300 at 63. His rear was a 3.99 so he was probably at 3100. Sorry but I couldn't get a link to embed, but you can find his content on you tube. Is captioned as " up to speed".

Glad y o u got it sorted out. Have fun.

OK for keeping critters out, not so good for letting fumes and moisture out. I have a piece of kurly Kate scrubbing pad in mine. Also known as a chore boy..

Lived down the street from the town highway dept. garage and yard. We had the winter sand pile, a gravel pile. Metal and Concrete culverts, and various equipment to play in, on, and around. I recall a Bucyrus Erie roller, a Russel towed grader and a small Austin self propelled one. My favorite was the gradall bucket excavator that they used to contour and clean the ditches.

Some one asked my father liked retirement. He said When I was a youngster, I lived at home and my parents told what to do and when to do it, and it was OK. When I joined the navy and lived ashore or on the ship, the navy told me what to do and when to do it. And it was OK. When I got out of the navy, I got a job, and the Forman told me what to do and when to do it, and that was OK. Then I got married and when I was at home, my wife told me what to do and when, and that for the most part was OK. Then I retired and there was no one to tell me what to do and when to do it. And you know what, when you figure it out, it's way better then OK. Good luck getting it figured out. Just think to yourself your week is now six Ssturdays and a Sunday. RELAX, BREATH, ENJOY.

Make a jumper wire, 6 feet or more of 12 gauge wire with an alligator clip on each end. Insulated clips are good but bare ones will work with care not to accidently ground them. Attach one end to the coil terminal that receives power in your case the positive terminal. Attach the other end to the positive battery post. Now try it. If it starts and runs, you are near finished. To stop the engine, disconnect the jumper the battery. This tells you everything is working except the connection from the ign switch to the coil. If your jumper is long enough, connect the end that was attached to the battery and Attach it to a switch terminal that is hot with switch on. If it starts and runs and shuts off with the key, that says your ignition switch is OK. So a new wire from that terminal on the ign switch to the Coil positive terminal should be the fix.

Gonna need snow tires or is he putting it up for winter?

If it's a swapped in floor shifted 4 speed, it probably agranny low gear non syncronized box. Most people unless loaded or trailering only use 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. As the 1st gear plus the 4.something to one rear gears make the 8 mile an hourtop speed of first gear easy to do without.

This one looks like it would do the job for a good while. https://peerlesselectronics.com/7787-switch?utm_campaign=utm_campaign&utm_content=utm_content&utm_medium=utm_medium&utm_source=utm_source&utm_term=utm_term&utm_campaign=9526344450&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=421850933646&utm_term=&adgroupid=97013154373&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1Ivvjqqn9AIVTGxvBB39PQm_EAQYIyABEgK9AvD_BwE

Those tabs holding on to the stomp part are barely peened over. Couple off center stomps and that's headed for the dumpster.

Used a dynomax turbo flow. Pretty close to stack size with 2 inch I'd inlet and outlet. Center in, offset out. Benn on there since 2006 or so. Not loud, no drone, gets a bit audible when used briskly. Don't even know if they are still made. Cost was 30 bucks back then.

Mine got caught in my floor mat hole and flew apart. Don't think there are any good ones to be had. If you have a local car quest jobber try them. The one I bought there for my Studebaker truck few years back appeared to be OK, but only time it gets used is at annual inspection time when it's checked if it works. The last two guys had to be told how it worked and what it was for... Don't drive at night any more so no big deal. Push comes to shove you can always wire it through a double pole double throw toggle switch.

Brakes don't compare with modern disc setups but properly adjusted and maintained should require no pumping. Getting the adjustment correct can be a finicky process and needs to be correct before a proper bleeding can be done. It takes a bit of patience to get correct but these systems were the better ones compared to gm and ford systems of the same Era. Welcome and good luck with the car.

The only thing I am sure of is that fluids and air don't like 90 degree corners. So between the thick stun and the Offy, it pretty easy to tell which is friendlier to flow. That said, no mater what, the engine will only pump a finite amount of air. Putting extra entrances in won't change that. Its like entering a theater, no matter how many people are in the lobby, when the doors to the seats open, only a finite number cab pass the doors to the aisles. As far as the inner surfaces go, rougher is better to keep the incoming charge mixed up. If you look at the old 413 wedge motors with their long cross flow intakes, and even the slant six, Chrysler seemed to have intake engineering covered.

Don't know what your attachment is, my device won't open it? Is it possible it may be infected?

Suggest you do a search for Don Coatney 's thread where he documented with photos, putting a 251 ibto his 48 p15 sedan. There were some issues concerning the thicker crankshaft flange of the Desoto engine. He figured it out, but it wasn't a straight bolt in. Some finnageling was required. There was also an issue with thr front crossmember. Again not a bolt in but easily overcome with torch and welder. Unfortunately Don passed away a year or so ago, Don would have been glad to have talked or messaged you to and through these speed bumps. So his pictures and words are what's left of his process.

The horn wire which grounds the horn relay typically comes down the steering column, exits the bottom of steering gear box and terminates with a phenolic butt connector . The butt connector accepts a bullet connector on a wire attached to the relay. The strip connector is where the wires for Hi lo beam switch split to the head lamps. The running parking lamps feed may be there also. Use your volt meter or test light to see which is which. Never seen the wire clamps anywhere, hard ware stores have reasonable facsimiles

Ok!

Compression now stands at 135 120 120 135 The bounce up from last night was a pleasant surprise. Will add gas and new 1 range hotter plugs in the AM. Reapplied medicinal goo to two and three. Went to wally world and found a set of lights that clamp on the handlebars. No room on the bars so I put some tape around the signal stalks, they fit nicely. They are rechargeable via USB. Says good for six hours on steady and 10 on strobe. Also bought a pair of 4 LED AUX LAMPS to take over for the Amp sucking head lamp. Hey Sniper, how would one administer the brake fluid. Wonder if adding 6 or 8 ounces into the first half gallon od gas might work? Don't want to put anything via the oil as it's a wet clutch which shares oil with the engine.

Now have a reliable momentary toggle for the starter switch. Spins over quite nicely. I'm going to run a switchable ground for the always on headlamp so it's not fighting the ign system for current at start, and can be operator controlled Will also find some inexpensive LED auxiliary white lights and wire them to the always on circuit to satisfy NY, motorcycle law. Figure they won't draw that much juice as the 50 watt halogene with ign on. Are any of you guys running a strobe light front or rear like the ones that folks run on their bicycles. These stand out very nicely during the day. Some one may have mentioned that they saw some strobes on armbands. Might like some of those for when I working the snowplow or blower at the end of the driveway. We are on a State Rd that's the busiest stretch in the county. It also seems to have more idiots per hundred than other roads. Anybody remember the source of the arm band lights?

Brake issue sorted?

When I was riding it it was very dependable. First start of the day always required a kick start with the tank on prime and lots of choke. Never needed more than the 2nd kick. Rest of the day would fire up easily on the starter with just a touch of the start button. My friends Yamaha Virago would never start without a bump start or jump pac. I think this was the first or second year that NY required headlight on with engine running. The headlight should have been wired to come on post start, sucks a lot of juice and its only a 12 or 15 amp hour battery. Unfortunately a trip to the dmv for the wife's car, and a trip to lenscrafters for new glasses adjustments chewed up most of the day. No plugs in stock at the local stores. Supposed to be on the truck in the am.

No gas in it yet. We got electricity to most everything, rolled it over a couple times with the kick starter, oiled the cylinders and did the compression test on 4. It was zero, so we soaked again and I kicked it over again today Got 50 psi on 4 about 75 on 1. Today I rigged a temp gas line, tomorrow I need to mount up a new starter switch as the original bit the dust. So after a couple of errands I will build a switch mount, do another comp test, then introduce fuel to the process. Might invest in new spark plugs also. Couple folks on kawasaki forums suggest new coils are in order due to age. I checked a couple of the screws on the cam covers and they were less than co operative so I will need to locate my impact driver so I don't buggar the screw heads. It's coming up on winter here so no real hurry on the process.

That is tomorrow's plan after a bit more soaking and kicking.

Lack of compression Had some room in the garage after shuffling seasonal items into and outof sheds for winter.. decided to pull my 78 kz 650 into the spot for a try to get it started from sitting period of ran when parked 1e years ago. Went through the electrical system and have spark and electrons going where they are supposed to. Last activity before quiting for the night was a compression test of #4 cylinder dry and wet showed no compression. So today's activity will be to oil up all the cylinders with a bit of atf and acetone, with several kicks after letting sir for a while then repeat a couple more times. Should I be looking for stuck valves from sitting ? Last compression test I remember was in the 130 to 150 range but that was 13 plus years ago. Bike has been under cover in dry storage since last running. I also notice much brighter spark when kicked over compared to cranking the starter. So the starter seems to be causing a larger than normal voltage drop. This is a 4 cylinder with the wasted spark coil setup and has aftermarket non points ignition system with stock coils. The wasted spark deal was apparently an industry standard for four cylinders. With one coil firing odd cylinders and the other firing evens. So the cylinders would get spark on compression and on exhaust. So out to soak and kick, then deal with leaves, then soak and kick again...