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John-T-53

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Everything posted by John-T-53

  1. John-T-53
    Is that really aluminum? Or pot metal (zinc)? Chrome is removed by electrolysis, basically the reverse hookup from plating. If it's zinc, it won't hold up in bare form.
  2. John-T-53
    Ran into the ol' gal again this weekend, still in San Clemente although now on the other end of town, and clad in "pea soup". Someone put on a cheap paint job, new tires, hub caps, and that's about it. The cowl vent was also bondo'd shut, although it's still there. These pics make it look better than it is. I think the sign said $7500 obo. I like the "stout" and simple look of this one, tho.
  3. John-T-53
    These pieces may be chromed steel, notice the surface rust on the right (pass side) piece. Even so, they are dented and need to be rechromed, which would put the true cost up to probably $1k. If infact stainless, you could pound the dents out and polish.
  4. John-T-53
    The shield will also probably extend the life of your fuel pump - by keeping the internals cooler, they will be less prone to failure.
  5. John-T-53
    Very cool! Nice job! Spray silicone is a good quick fix for window channels and catwhisker areas the glass rubs on - makes it slide easier.
  6. John-T-53
    Yes.
  7. John-T-53
    I had a great time...well worth the drive! In addition to all the trucks, I enjoyed the scenery of the countryside up there. Those are some good backroads to cruise on! But most importantly, Thank you Tim!
  8. John-T-53
    Good luck on getting the old gal back on the road! Make sure your shop installs the right valve guides and doesn't get them from Egge (Their guides have too big ID). Contact me for a source for the correct ones if your guy hasn't found 'em. My engine is back together again and I'll be there Saturday!
  9. John-T-53
    The ebay emblem is 51-52. Moose, you have the correct 53 emblem already on your truck. On the 53 emblem, I've seen the horizontal bars between the letters occasionally painted red...don't know if that's "original" or not.
  10. John-T-53
    Flare the existing line and put a double female union on it. It's convenient to have a union on the engine side of the firewall anyway.
  11. John-T-53
    And they're tough. Even the block iron (intake seats) is high quality, tuff material. Cutting either seats is not easy...sometimes the stone needs to be dressed up to 2-3 times on each.
  12. John-T-53
    Dang...yeah, too bad she'll miss the BBQ. That's right up my alley...a lady that age and likes trucks. Not too many of those types in my neck of the woods. Actually none! Finding a looker around here would require driving a Bimmer and becoming a douche bag!
  13. John-T-53
    The plastic dash script was originally painted silver. I kinda like the "natural" clear look on mine so far...
  14. John-T-53
    Oil pump installation is critical. I screwed this up a couple years back and was off a tooth on first start up. The engine ran, but timing was way off and had no top end. After fixing this simple thing, it ran like butter!
  15. John-T-53
    Bob - Nice spread! Even your box for the 61-65 heater fresh air kit is on good shape. Is that other fresh air kit for the 504 heater? Or a later year? Any chance you could get a close up pic of the instruction sheet that came with the model 61-65 kit? Thanks,
  16. John-T-53
    Inspection mark.
  17. John-T-53
    Here's a little gem for you guys...
  18. John-T-53
    I ordered a new cable and outer sheath from an obsolete Mopar place in Temecula, CA a couple years ago. It had a plastic coated sheath and swagged ball on the upper end. The thing fell apart with the ball pulling out and the sheath ends pulling out too. My original sheath was perfect so I put the new cable inside that, and had the ball brazed on the end. Worked great until my e-brake went bye-bye with the old tranny! If you have an original cable sheath, don't throw it out! Even if rusty, clean clean it up with a wire wheel and paint it.
  19. John-T-53
    I was in the $450 range I think for a modern tube and fin core. All is good.
  20. John-T-53
    Either the pulley mark or the tab on the chain cover might be different. You might have a mismatched set, if that's possible. Make a mark on your pulley when #1 is at TDC and use that to time the engine, then figure out the rest from there.
  21. John-T-53
    Are those all dudes?
  22. John-T-53
    In full compliance. It's been a long but productive day! Spent the whole day making new valves for the truck. With the help of my buddy Steve, we successfully adapted 6 Chevy valves to fit the Mopar flat 6. These have thicker stems and will reduce my clearance within the existing guides to eliminate smoking and oil consumption.
  23. John-T-53
    It rained pretty good last week when I was on vacation, I came home and didn't find any puddles in the cab. It's been raining all day today and no leaks. This is really the first real test (first real rain this year) and I'm finally happy the windshield doesn't leak. I'd say the credit gets split halfway between the improved design and improved technique. This time I put urethane between the glass and rubber, and tightened the inside garnish trim a little more each day in the sun after installing. Also more liberal application of the glazing compound.
  24. John-T-53
    Great list indeed! Here's a couple more I recommend... (15) Keep a journal or log of all work done on the truck, such as oil changes, major repairs, etc., with date and mileage. Save all receipts. (16) Keep a growing list of part numbers that will speed up time at auto parts stores (and help the dudes behind the counter). p.s. Cool, just noticed I made it to "Guru"
  25. John-T-53
    One more comment on the civil defense marks... 1955 GM vehicle radios didn't have them, but 1956 and up did. I remember Bob at Bob's radio in Pismo Beach saying 1956 was the year most radios began to have the CD marks. BUT...other sources on radio websites say they began in '53, '54... I guess different mfr's implemented at varying times...but if you see the red army coming, just pull over and tune to 640 or 1240 for instructions on what to do next.
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