John-T-53

Tim, Thanks - great link. That wasn't me ('twas "John Teee"). There's another "JT" on here competing for the moniker. Ha! Anyways, I'll have to study that and see what's available. Replacing just the valves would be easiest, and I might have to change to a different keeper and spring retainer, but anything avoiding more machining is preferable. Even though my buddy down the street has a machine shop and available at my disposal...I will ask him about the bronze liners. On that topic, I might like that idea because bronze has very good wear properties...a lot of european makes have all-bronze guides. I did do some late night searchin on SBI's online catalog and found these: Potential replacement: http://www.sbi-e-catalog.com/PartDetail.aspx?PartNumber=01193+3&PartType=Valves These look like they'll need some lathe work to cut the relief area just up from the tip. OEM valves (for comparison) http://www.sbi-e-catalog.com/PartDetail.aspx?PartNumber=00298&PartType=Valves

I cannot find valve guides that are the correct ID. EGGE machine's guides are too big (by .002") which is out of spec. My clearance was .004" when it should be .0015 - .002". Usually guides come undersize which allows you to hone them out. Anyways, I've replaced the guides in my truck and ground the seats, and don't want to do it again. But the engine's still smoking and I'm burning oil (on a relatively new motor). It needs to be right! I'd like to find intake valves with a larger stem. Has anybody ever done any research into this, and would it be possible? Thanks,

Exactly! When the air is dry, no problem, but moisture sure makes the material (Bakelite??) rub off. I've gotten in the habit of keeping a set of mechanix gloves in the truck for mornings when the wheel is "dirty". I need to paint mine; it's been on the project list for some time now.

Same here. After 3+ hours with my foot on the pedal, my leg is stiff and cramped. When you have to react quick, there won't be time to push in the throttle! Anybody had a close call in their truck?

Kind of a let down, but oh well. Not too bad for the first season on the rebound. so much for a Harbaugh match-up, too..

Bringing this one back up top. On the subject of gas mileage, I'm getting 13 around town and anywhere from 15 to 19 on the highway. Not too bad (all things considered). This is with the T5 OD trans, but running a single barrel carb and everything else stock. What's the prevailing opinion on mileage/performance improvements by upgrading to a dual one barrel setup? I think this would be a cool project, and apparently I have the right cyl head (the P head w/ bolt hole for linkage). Thanks,

Jasco prime n' paint is the same stuff (phosphoric acid solution). There's another called "osh-pho" or something like that. Basically a metal prep - neutralizes iron oxide and trreats surfaces of bare steel to create a "bite" for the paint to adhere to better. It' won't react to paint but it'll stain it, and may damage it. If you have enough of the solution you can dip parts in it and remove rust completely overnight usually.

Originally these were 5/16"-24 (fine thread) with like u-nuts clipped to the floor panels. They were used with a peripheral tooth lock washer. Problem is new fine thread u-nuts are impossible to find these days.

Nice! Looks like you installed new hardware cloth for the screens too. Yeah, they are kind of tough to get back together with the rubber blocks in there...and that stainless band is a little too tight fitting when just trying to get the screws started in the speed nut clip. Did you have the cores tested to see if they hold?

A year of make (YOM) license plate always makes an old vehicle look more authentic. After religiously searching, I found matching pairs for both vehicles on ebay. In CA, 1951 plates were used through '55. If your vehicle is '52 thru '55 you need to find the little metal tags to cover up the "51". These can be elusive, especially for '55, because that year they only put 'em on the rear plate. A few years ago, I ditched my 90s vintage plates for a YOM set and it really made a difference! (despite going through hell at the DMV!)

I had a sticking intake valve in my Chevy 283 that caused a LOUD backfire (or front fire) through the carb.This occurred out of nowhere, cruising down the freeway at 65. I almost sh*t my drawers! The engine had previously got hotter than normal sitting in traffic and I think caused the oil to break down. An oil change solved the problem.

While in Palm Springs last November I checked out the headliner in this Ford truck...not sure if it's the stock design, but I liked the one piece "molded" look. The material here looked like foam-backed cloth, popular for headliners in 80s cars (usually glued to a cardboard backer). I was trying to think of a way to get the same setup in a PH; not sure if possible. But I do like Bob's idea below...is the "lid" piece just a snap-in fit?

For a steering box. GL-4 for your tranny tho - that's where the brass is! Not sure about differences in hypoid/non-hypoid gear oil tho...

That actually brings the rpm's down under 4k. Still too high, tho. Good luck Jim!

With 2nd gear at 1.78:1, 45mph, 27" tall tires, 4:10 rear ratio, 4087 rpm! http://www.ringpinion.com/Calculators/Calc_RPM.aspx

Right on the x-frame. I think they started that in '58. I hit a deer last weekend in my truck. Right here in town on el Camino Real, going about 35. It bounced off the front and flew into the bushes...No damage!

Was the crankcase full? Or was the engine just lubed for assembly? If the crank was spinning, oil would have been pumped throughout the engine and things would have been ok. But 45mph in 2nd gear would produce high rpm's (over 3500 probably) and not good at all for these.

well I'll be dipped...

GL-4 is supposedly the brass-friendly grade of gear oil.

I never found one of these new. Although in mine there was remnants of a bellows type seal that went over the acc rod between the pedal and floor. My new firewall pad ended up forming a good seal anyway so I dropped the idea.

3M Strip caulk is great for this, and can be applied on the engine side of the firewall around the core tubes.

That's definitely a Ford style maincase. Where did this T5 come from? WC or NWC depends on the internals. WC T-5's had bearings instead of bushings, and fiber instead of bronze syncros, to name a few. You can swap tail housings, different gears, output shafts, etc. to fit your needs. If you use a Chevy front bearing retainer, Tom Langdon's kit will allow you to use the stock Mopar T/O bearing retainer. Length of the retainer sleeve might be a problem, tho, if you use an adapter plate.

Jim, I feel for ya man. Been there before - nothing worse than having to re-do what was once ready to go. Good luck, and let us know what the shop finds out.

Jake, That's a Ford T-5 maincase you got there. Looks like your bellhousing had a 4-speed behind it previously. You can use this tranny case but you'll need an adapter kit from Paul Curtis: http://home.comcast.net/~tcbass/t5.html The front retainer will have to be shortened too, and you'll need to check out your input shaft length - you need the longer one with the adapter plate. Or, you can get a GM maincase (S-10, Camaro, Firebird) that can be bolted to the mopar bellhousing w/o an adapter plate. However, 2 of those 4-speed holes will have to be filled by weking in a rod before you tap new holes. This is something I had an experianced fab shop do, and it was even difficult for them. Better yet get a 3-speed bellhousing. It's what I should have done.

VPW had one of these same style of housings I was looking for too. After over a year of searching, they hooked me up. It seems the non-bypass style is the harder one to find, as I came across several of the cast bypass style housings during my past search.