John-T-53

I have a set of 230 rods with these lock washers. Not sure if they're really needed for locking purposes - back in the day the engineers were concerned about the con rods coming apart, in some engines the nuts were secured with a wire too. Now days we lube 'em up with moly. In any case, if yours have the lock washers, keep 'em. There should be a recess where the washer sits under the nut, and the nut will not seat properly without.

Some bellhousings are drilled and tapped for 3-spd trannys, some are drilled for 4-spds. Some are drilled for both. Take a pic and post it here...you can tell even with the 4 speed in place.

Motor Warehouse in Sacramento can supply your shop with a reconditioned crank for about $500, ready to go. Have your guy call them and talk to DK, the owner. (916) 920-2221 x18 Their cranks are known to be very nice. Their rods, however can be off a bit and need touching up (as I experienced). The crank and rods have casting numbers that your machinist should be able to look up in the AERA book. I recently went through this, and here's some rod casting numbers and dimensions: 218 rod: 617925 7.937" c to c distance 218, 230 rod: 954408 7.810" c to c dist Do you have your old crank forging #? A 230 crank I recently sourced has a number 868929, however the numbers vary among years. Good luck!

Thanx for the pics. If anybody's got one with a good rubber floor seal they're willing to part with, let me know! I have a nice 3-speed column to give away if anybody's in the market. Anybody know of a source for the steering shaft bearing (at top of column)? thanks,

What does a steering column that's in an original 4 speed/floor shift truck look like? I'm gonna paint my column and steering wheel. Thought I'd finally get rid of the old (now defunct), three speed shifter stick and rod....but might it just be easier to get a 4-speed column...Who has some pics of one? Thanks,

Ditto again on Tennessee Clutch. They might even send you a tee shirt with your parts. Do you have a 10" or 11" clutch?

Thanks for the input. I'll see what it looks like when the engine gets dropped in...and try to not get involved in a police pursuit.

Here's some pics of the current situation...

That's some slick piping there. Looks good!

Correct on both. Basically if the truck hits a big bump and the front momentarily uncompresses all the way, we don't want the shocks acting as the "stop". I guess the bigger question is will this condion ever realistically be encountered. Will put up some pics later on.

Post more pics of the wagon if you can. I looked up other safari wagons and didn't see any with the same style real wheel opening and side stainless trim as on yours. I wonder if this one's body was modified in any way? Thanks,

I got a new set of front shocks from Rare Parts. The shocks are 19" fully extended, and don't slip on the frame with the suspension fully uncompressed (the engine is out). These are just short by 3/4". They are 12" compressed. Should I compress the suspension and install these shocks, or will they be a problem (bottoming out) if the truck experiences some serious rebounds? Seeing as how the NAPA 94008 shocks are 19 1/2" and the Gabriels are 20 1/4", I have doubts. Or am I just over thinking it? What do you guys think? UPDATE: The springs have been rebuilt and re-arched. Rare parts has heavy duty shocks available that are 19.9" x 12.25". Would a HD shock make for a rougher ride?

Just get rid of the billet wheels on that wagon and it'll look a lot better! I didn't know Pontiac made a Nomad-like sport wagon.

Glad this came up as I'm about to re-plumb the entire truck in stainless. Since the master is mounted to the bellhousing and the brake lines to the frame, this is making sense now. Making the loop will be a test for sure! Barry - post pics of your progress and good luck.

What's the purpose of the loop?

On a side note, tires are getting expensive these days - have you guys noticed a recent spike in cost? Last time I bought a set it was $100 each, now it's hovering around $200!

This rig definitely needs some TLC. The seller won't be sh*ttin' in high cotton like he thinks! Snip the price in half. Nix the fender mounted lights!

Dolly D, you know if this guy silk screens the numbers onto the faces, or uses a different process?

Merle - thanks for the info. The NAPA p/n checked out at the local store, and they said it was a special order and would take a week. I called Rare Parts in Stockton and they now stock king pin sets for our trucks. One day later, the kit is in hand! See pics below for comparison. On the left is the import, on the right is from the home team. This one is very high quality and blows the import kit out of the water. The pins are made by Trayer in NY, and the bearings are stamped "Irwin Bearing Co Cinti. O.". The pins are very hard steel like the original and slip into the axle eyes with ease. Now just have to re-do the bushings in the spindles and we'll be in business. As has been said before on this site, Rare Parts sells only high quality, USA-made parts, and they have Drag links, Tie rod ends, spring shackles, shocks, and king pins for our trucks. They make many of their parts in-house, often with improved design and matl's from OEM. Highly recommended!

Looks like nice original bolts holding it on. Did you have them replated? Original washers too?

Yeah I was surprised the new shocks didn't come with new hardware. It's been a while since I bought shocks. Today, it's less for more.

Does anybody know of a source for new washers for the shock studs? looking for a new shiny set....

yup, there are fabricators out there who can weld stainless studs back on. The place that did mine in So-Cal charged their minimum of $90 to do it. It hurt, but it was good to get the emblem back on.

Two years later, I forgot about the NAPA king pin kit and ordered one from Robert's. The packaging was suspicuous as it was unmarked, had rusty staples in the box and overall looked chicom made. I had the new bushing pressed into the spindles and honed out for .001" clearance. I attempted installing one spindle today on the axle, but it's a bust. I'm disappointed with the quality of parts and fit. The king pins are made of steel a lot softer than the original. The bearings seem cheaply made and are too tall - one side doesn't even go on. The disc seal plugs are too small. The pin deformed a bit when pounding in with a brass drift. Now it's stuck and the spindle is binding. Now looking for another kit. Anybody know if the NAPA king pin kit is USA-made and have an opinion as to the quality? Are there NOS kits available? Thanks,

Just about ready to haul a couple yards of gravel! Comin' together there...lookin' sweet!