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John-T-53

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Everything posted by John-T-53

  1. John-T-53
    I have no complaints as long as they're in perfect working condition. Leave plenty of room to the next car in front, as said. Keep tabs on the fluid level and regularly inspect for leaks. Keep your parking brake adjusted. Stock brakes become very limited when it comes to towing or hauling heavy loads in the bed, especially when going down long grades. Be cautious!
  2. John-T-53
    Where can the special washers and cone nuts be found? I just used plain flat washers, split lock washers, and brass nuts on mine, not knowing these were originally a special design. I never had any problems but would like to do it right this time around. Thanks,
  3. John-T-53
    Funny...they guy at the speedo shop near me is named Hartmut (Hart-moot). Palo Alto Speedometer.
  4. John-T-53
    A remote reservoir is on my to-do list too. It'll make bleeding a lot easier (for the refilling part). I'm always taking something apart that requires bleeding, and this will make things easier. Also, every couple years, its a good idea to replace the fluid in the entire system to keep your cylinders from rusting and fouling the piston cups.If there's leaks at the cover gasket, I'm sure some Permatex or RTV would be the solution to help the gasket do its work.
  5. John-T-53
    Looks like a winner! I confirmed mine has the half circle cut-outs too. Thanks Tim...let me know what I owe ya. And no rush.
  6. John-T-53
    On a slightly related topic, Are there smaller oil baths available for a dual carb setup? Or will the standard air cleaners fit? I too, like oil baths because of their cleaning ability and uniqueness. Some folks think they hurt performance because of poor air flow, but I haven't seen any data backing this up. Thanks,
  7. John-T-53
    The clutch pedal has no bushing between it and the shaft. It's only rotation with respect to the shaft is the free play set by the bolts on the clamp. Another reason for a wobbly pedal would be a worn hole in the pedal, or wear on the shaft. In my case it was the shaft, got a new new (NOS) shaft from VPW that took care of this problem. I originally tried drawing the clamp up tighter to the pedal but the amount that would compensate for wobble ended up being too tight, eliminating free play.
  8. John-T-53
    Any help is appreciated as always!
  9. John-T-53
    Anybody got a good extra one of these pieces laying around (see pic)? This is the LH side. This one "opened up" in the blast cabinet...before I have my body guy repair it, thought it'll probably be a lot cheaper to get a good used one. Thanks,
  10. John-T-53
    Yeah, LA keeps winning, but go A's!
  11. John-T-53
    http://www.newrayusa.com/index.php Looks like a Chinese outfit.
  12. John-T-53
    A popular area for cracks...got one in the same spot!
  13. John-T-53
    Roberts sells these lenses as well. And confirmed, these are easily broken. I'm on my second set now as I've accidently broken the previous set, one at a time. One got dropped just by handling it in my living room (after a few beers) and the other got squeezed when I hit the front porch with the truck a few years ago.
  14. John-T-53
    Where exactly is the crack? Next to the step down where the hood sits?
  15. John-T-53
    Make sure to put some sealer on the underside of these as they're in the wheel well.
  16. John-T-53
    I've been scrathing my head to figure out some sort of puller tool... but wanted to take a try on an easy way first. Tonight I removed the nut and soaked the splines with some penetrating fluid for about an hour. Then, inserted a large flat screwdriver underneath, between the wheel and column, so the blade touched the metal surface on the back of the wheel. With a light blow from my rawhide mallet, and the wheel popped right off.
  17. John-T-53
    Jim, Nice shot! I imagine that little sign says: "Please do not drive on the grass".
  18. John-T-53
    Holy crap is right. I just can't seem to win no matter how hard I try. A normal person in this case would throw in the towell and buy a Toyota (or something like that). Should I just do that? Turns out the crank is a 218. False alarm. It had multiple cracks all over, details still pending until my machinist gets the full report from our crank guy (Armando). A new 218 crank is $550, ground, polished, including all bearings, and delivery. That's at cost from the supplier in Sacramento (I think it's Motor Warehouse). I'm looking into getting a 230 crank now, though.
  19. John-T-53
    I just found out my crank is cracked. My guy magnafluxed it today. The engine is all apart again. I think I had a 230 crank in my little 218 block and didn't know it. It has an 8 hole flywheel flange. I never measured the stroke. I need to look into the rods I have. Anybody know the length of a 230 rod or a 218 rod? They ones I have are casting # 954371 I'd like to make sure somebody didn't put the wrong rods with the 230 crank, if even possible to do. Now looking for a new crank....just when I thought all was well.
  20. John-T-53
    might even consider hot dip galv, this is an area highly exposed to the elements.
  21. John-T-53
    Last September...was planning another trip to the same spot this Memorial day, but had to postpone until Sept again...
  22. John-T-53
    That's one hell of a nice lookin' Belvedere!
  23. John-T-53
    From the picture, the chrome actually doesn't look that bad. Have you tried to clean it up? I'll bet if you hit it with very fine steel wool and chrome polish, and repaint the details, it'll look a lot better (good enough for driver quality) and you can save yourself several hundred bucks from a new chrome job. Little imperfections and pits are much less noticable once installed on the vehicle.
  24. John-T-53
    Jim, Sorry to hear that....on the bright side at least that's the only problem, and the head is easy to pull and replace. In addition to retorquing after initial heat-up, use "Copper spray-a-gasket" on both sides of the new gasket before putting it in. I've had good luck with Fel-Pro head gaskets in the past and present.
  25. John-T-53
    Is that really aluminum? Or pot metal (zinc)? Chrome is removed by electrolysis, basically the reverse hookup from plating. If it's zinc, it won't hold up in bare form.
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