John-T-53

Low and back is a good thing....lower center of gravity and better handling, right? Hence the reason for the "slant".

She looks a bit rough... Maybe the ATF/acetone mix would un-stick it? Good luck dude!

I can certainly attest to that! Haven't seen any on ebay either. There's cables on there for later model sweptlines that look like the same style of cable, except for the knob and dash mount. One of these could probably be adapted. The PH era cables are very high quality, especially at the dash end, in my opinion. The solid brass and zinc plated hardware is bulletproof and works great when cleaned and greased. Dave Miller who had a big list of parts for sale on here still has a fresh air intake scoop last time I talked to him a few months ago.

Cool! The Torqueflite script on the back is awesome!

Good info Reg. Now if I can find some bulk cable for cheap, I might give it a go on making these... Thanks,

As I understand it: AIR: The duct valve HEAT or FAN: The heater's fan switch TEMP: Heater control valve DEFROST: (Self explanatory) Tod: Good find on the NAPA valve. I think I'm gonna get one of these as a backup for when the old Mopar valve starts to spray coolant all over.

For the valve, another option is to install a non-remote control type with a petcock style shutoff. This coule probably be aquited at Napa. StudebakerParts.com had a 4" duct hose but it's been on back order for months now. They also sell the defroster duct. The long cables that go to the water valve and fresh air duct valve are very scarce and impossible to find. "Townwagon" has a couple as part of an entire heater kit, but he's not selling separate. He might still have some of the dash-mounted pods where the control knobs mount, however. AMS Obsolete (fmmpar on ebay) has NOS cables for like $85 each (too much!). Maybe you could try to talk them down? I have a couple short broken Bowden cables with the control ends intact. Has anybody heard of a place that could rebuild these to any length?

Ditto; it felt about that up here today too. Haven't turned on the gas to the wall heater yet, tho....I'm holdin' out!

Wow, hope it was worth it to the (un)lucky winner!

I will be doing mine again, 1 year later, due to improvements in the Steele gasket since. Also, it leaks, mainly due to using no sealant between the glass and rubber. This time, I'll lay down a bead of RTV or Urethane inside the glass channel which will do the trick, also acting as a lubricant to help the glass center itself with the rubber (as long as I get it in quickly!).

How would anybody be able to mount an (assembled) engine/bellhousing/transmission on an engine stand anyway??? I built a crate with wheels to put the engine on once it was assembled and painted. Then I could mount the bellhousing and install the clutch, and bolt on all the other accessories. The crate made it easier to move around and more compact for storage until I was able to put 'er in.

Hemmings Classic Car is my favorite auto mag, usually the only one I make time to read these days. It features cars and trucks from all decades, and they always have articles on the less popular makes/models which makes it interesting. This is the only mag I read cover to cover. Cars & Parts was a good one too back in the day... Is there a good dedicated truck mag out there? Haven't found one yet.

Yup, you can do that. The 3 and 4 speed holes are in different locations. My original bellhousing had holes for both.

Pimpin' aint easy...

Thanks Tim and Jim, glad you guys came over and were able to see the town. Nice shots of the compound! I'm happy my truck was the one you learned to drive stick in...but haven't been able to get my seat belt cinched tight since! LOL Anyways, thanks for bringing the springs. I'm gonna tackle that project soon enough... still recovering from the parade, though...

Tim - I have to pass on that hat tippin' to my buddy Steve who's ambulance station is nearby. He took a pic of the entrance one day and sent it to me, which led to a phone call and a trip up there. You guys got some good pics and I see there's some hidden spots I didn't get to. I'll have to see if I can get a rear end from the selection of A bodies up there... I had my eye on some dash parts in that tandem axle but at the time there was a huge wasp nest hanging from the cab roof!!

Glad to hear you guys made it over there! This is a place time has surely forgotten, right in the middle of the bay area. Did you come back with any flea bites? I was all bitten up on my legs the next day after I was there in August. I also remember some interesting graffitti there...

I was asked if I could tow a float for my friend's dad's Italian club, the Associazione Lucchesi nel Mondo (they're from Lucca). This was the 143rd annual Columbus day parade. It turned out to be a great event... The truck was transformed into a festooned rig (check out the hub caps...lol). It was a tough drive - didn't go more than 3 mph, so the clutch got a workout (and so did my left leg). It was fleet week up here the same time, so there was an extra 1,000,000 people in the city. Took forever to get home that evening!

Maybe check the plumbing section at your local hardware store. There might be some faucet hardware that could work for this - under sink mount style, with the large nuts and washers. Although a lot of these are fine thread, not IPS. If you have iron pipe threads on your heater you could adapt a close size nut with a pipe thread cutter...

Probably, but it's still holding my e-brake cable in place up top. Heating in an oven 500 degrees for 1/2 hour would probably heat treat it...I did this for an e-brake spring modification and worked great.

These are unique clips! I was missing one and made another from a hair pin cotter by heating, bending, and hammering it flat on opposite sides. Got it close enough so it worked. Might try this place too...they have all sorts of obsolete auto fastners: http://www.rjlautofasteners.com/ Email the guy there, Roman, your picture and he may be able to hook you up. rjlfast@hotmail.com Let us know if you have any luck....thanks,

An internally leaking fuel pump will also cause a black sooty tail pipe. Your driveway will have soot marks on it too.

Wow, you went all out. I see bolts, washers, and even hose clamps in the bag. Are those the vent window frames? Did you get the door latches, strikes, and window regulators done too? I've used Eastwood's detail silver cad paint, but there's no comparison for the real thing!

What would be a brand name zinc oil additive to look for? I've heard amsoil might make one but I don't normally see amsoil products out here. I'd probably add it to the L-6 just for more peace of mind, but according to the posts below my Chevy's 283 could use it more.

I have the same problem, although they do their job about 85% I'd say. It's the spring inside the arms that's not pulling enough. I'd like to hear any suggestions to make them less flacid too... Thanks,