Robert Horne
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Everything posted by Robert Horne
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Thanks, I am very careful with this stuff. I always work with it on the outside of my shop, and have the wind at my back.
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I have been using a chemical from Advance autoparts made by "Purple Power", for rust treatment. After using a wire brush, chemical stripper, blasting, or what ever, I apply the Purple Power Rust Treatment with a spray bottle. After drying for a day, I wire brush the treated area again, and apply the treatment again. Depends on how bad the metal was at the start, on how many times I do this, sometimes one treatment is enough. After cleaning with paint thinner, it is ready for primer.....
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Time to get serious... LS motor in my 48
Robert Horne replied to Smokeybear's topic in P15-D24 Forum
The "most economically feasible and logical path" would to buy a good running similar stock engine, install, and start driving soon. I bought my flathead engine, $150, from a guy going all modern with his project. I bought a spare engine, 1956, for $50, runs good... And there would be nothing wrong with anyone installing a 350 or any other type engine. -
first project car 1940 dodge luxury liner
Robert Horne replied to joshmodelskidoo's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Welcome, great project, reminds me of my 48 Dodge that did not look all that great but, ran very good...
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A lot of info on the stude turbo. I see a lot of info on new turbos for high rpm modern cars, that can produce a lot of HP, but not much info on how much torque is produced. Our old engines have low HP but good torque. Wonder if a turbo from a small engine diesel would work better in our old type engines to produce more HP and Torque, in the rpm range we run at..
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I lived in Cleveland, Ohio for 30 years, and seen alot of rust. I would not use any kind of oil for any rustproofing, clean or dirty. The oil attracts dirt, and then oily dirt attracts moisture, and then rust. I have seen many oily dirt covered oilpans rust through completely. What I use for rustproofing is an acid type chemical prior to primer and paint. There are many different spray wands/nozzels available to spray into hidden areas. I drill a hole in boxed areas, to insert a spray wand, spray alot of thinner paint, and then install a rubber plug. My 38 Coupe is holding up very good after 27 years.....
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Dodge38, great project you have going there, similar to my 37 Plymouth four door. Great setup on your photos, how did you post those? Thanks, Bob....
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It is your project, do as you please. The S10 with a 4.3, or even a 350/400 works great. I have a 350/400 in a 1 ton Van, I may use in one of my 37s, and I have 4.0 six/ automatic, 2wd Jeep Cherokee XJ, I have been thinking of using. And now I found a Ranger v6/automatic, long wheel base, runs great, cheap. The Ranger long wheel base is a good fit.... On rearends, Jeep Cherokee XJs, and Explorers, are a good fit. I used a 95 Ranger rear in my 38, but had to use spacers....
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Here is a photo of the 2012 Jeep swaybar links that may work, found the photo on ebay......
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The TK5 shifter is more to the rear than the T5. I compensated for this, by heating and bending the shifter forward, and then bending to the rear. I also added some length to the shifter with a steel tube I found in my supply area(scrap pile)..............
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Marine use also.
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My trans is a 1986 or 87 TKG Toyo Kogyo Ranger. The bell was bored for the top mounting bolts, to match the trans holes. The tranny front cover was shaved about 1/16 inch to match the bell opening.
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Here is the angle iron adapter I made for the 2 bottom bolts, and bored two holes for the top 2 trans bolts. Plymouth pressure plate, & throw out bearing, Ranger clutch disc.
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I have been real happy with my TK5 Ford Ranger 5 speed install. These TK5s are from 1983 to 1987 Rangers... The first gear is a little low with a 3.7 rearend, but the 4th and 5th gears make my Coupe very easy to drive........ With only about 80hp, the 5 speed is real good....
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I need to show my Jeep friends this video....thanks for sharing, Bob
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Sure is not "people of Walmart"
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In September, "Oldguy48" had a great thread on adding a Jeep swaybar to a Plymouth, you may be interested in.....
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I am real happy with the TK5 Ranger trans. The 3.9 rear was lower than I liked, and with the Ranger 3.7 gear, my Coupe is better. I put a 100 mile ride on it last month. Did very good.
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230 Plymouth 251 Chrystler/Desoto Carburator differences
Robert Horne replied to 40desoto's topic in P15-D24 Forum
When I found my 56 Dodge engine, with the 2v carb, at a junk yard, the owner had taken the carb off and put it on a 318 engine. I have a 2v carb from a 305 chevy engine for the 56 two barrel now... -
I believe it was a 2000 model, I will check with my friend that gave it to me...
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The seat in my 38 Coupe is a third row seat from a Chevy or GMC Suburban. Fits great....
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The Ford Bronco MC I used was 1994. I did not use the power booster, only the MC. I have original drums in the front, and 95 Ranger drums in the rear. Everything working good so far....
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On my 38 Coupe, I installed a 86 Dodge MC, and used my original pedal assembly. I made a bracket from a piece of angle iron. The 38s have the MC pointed forward. I later installed a Ford Bronco MC with a bigger bore to see if it would be any better. Both worked the same.
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For commercials, I put a spot of bright green tape on the "mute" button on the remote. I think TV remotes should have a 2 inch x 2 inch bright mute button.... Bob..
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The ebay listing is for, 1958 Plymouth, 318s, or early Hemi....
