tufd24

Painless makes a good harness. As for the battery cables, any set will do. I found ignition switches on summitracing.com. They'll have the harness and cables as well. <<<< CORRECTION >>>>>> Any GOOD set will do.

Go with a truck transport, but be careful. Most of these folks are con-artists and lie through their teeth. Either charge too much or take twice as long as they promise. You shouldn't need a covered transport, I've shipped 3 cars from as far as Florida to Los Angeles with no damage. You can also cover the car (assuming you can convince the transport company to allow it.). Should cost between 1100-1500 and take 10-14 days cross country.

Thanks all. I was able to get one off ebay. Appreciate the help and quick replies.

Perfect. Thanks guys!

Hey all, The D-24 is coming along. Needed a ton more metal-work than expected, but it's all coming together. Ready for paint, engine and tranny are both rebuilt and painted, ready for install, and interior is set to go. Until...got a call today asking if I can find a replacement right side, back door, lower hinge. The existing is messed up enough it shouldn't be used if we can avoid it. Any leads on where to get one. I think calling junk yards will be pretty futile. I was able to get most of the parts I needed (gaskets, weather-stripping, etc.) from Andy B. I don't think they'd carry something like this though. Thanks!

All, Pulled the engine on the '47 D-24 Deluxe and the exhaust manifold is cracked pretty good. I'm taking it to a welding shop to see what they can do, but despite the posts and others I've spoken to saying a welded manifold "can" work just fine, the "can" part is worrisome. Called around an a refurbished manifold is expensive ~$500. Wondering if anyone makes headers instead or has a lead on getting hands on a new or good condition manifold or a place who makes headers. Thanks.

Hi all, Restoring a D-24. My 3rd classic restore ('67 Mustang and 50 Jeepster) and as I'm learing I'm trying to get more and more hands on. With the previous cars it was send to the paint man and check in every few days/weeks to make sure the job looks good. None of these are off-frame so not everything can be cleaned and prepped perfectly. My usual check-in's saw a lot of sanded areas and the parts with the worst rust removed and replace. All other areas were brushed and treated with an anti-rust coating (whose adhesiveness was variable). On the D-24 I'm removing as many panels and parts as practical without doing a full off-frame restore. I'm doing much of the work myself. Question is, as I clean the various parts (panels, bars, etc.) how much rust is acceptable. I can take a wire wheel and easily get rid of the surface rust, or I can really have at it and get the metal pretty close to bare polished. The latter obviously takes significantly longer. What's appropriate, the right balance? I may take some of the larger panels to be blasted, although the forum seems to advise against as it may cause warping disfiguring of the metal. Help and advice is appreciated. Thanks!