Robert Horne

I just received an email from a friend, that stated, The 1924 Chrysler was the first production car that offered the cartridge oil filter...

Maybe, you could install a Chevy small block oil filter unit, available on Ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-Chevrolet-265-The-Optional-Oil-Filter-/161265024937?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item258c24ffa9&vxp=mtr

http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/paintdetail.cgi?ppg=10018 PPG code 10018 - blue is listed on this site as, For Plymouth by Chrysler, 1946 ,,, PPG.

I have been real happy with my drum type Ranger setup. The problem I see very often with disc, is the low quality of rotors available. My new Dodge had 500 miles on it, and I had to have new rotors installed. When I replaced my 90 Plymouth rotors, I could see the thread of bolts in the rotor, poor manufacturing.... It is poor quality when rotors go bad before the brakes pads do.....

No, I have Ford Ranger drum type. I know it is like comparing apples and oranges with these brake modes. I believe needed brake stop power comes down to the gross weight of the vehicle, more than if using drum or disc, power assist or not, size of MC, etc. I have experimented with several type setups on my Plymouth, and it still takes about the same amount of foot pressure. My old Chevy Van, 4200 lbs, non power assist, takes just a little more foot pressure than all the setups I have used on my 3000 lb Plymouth. With my Van, I prefer this setup in wet or snowing conditions over all the modern all disc, power assist, anti locking, modern setups available.

I am using a master cylinder from a 94 Bronco, with the bore over 1 inch, I believe 1 and 1/8. I am not using the power assist. Working great the past couple of years. It takes no more to foot pressure to use the 1 and 1/8 MC, than it did with the small bore MC, I was using several years...

I believe the Explorer rears are 1995 and newer for disc. I used a Ranger rear 3.73, (not disc, and more narrow), and used the Ranger park brake setup, working good....

Jim, have you thought of using an Explorer master cylinder, since you are using an Explorer rear setup?

I drove my 38 around the property for over 10 years before I got the body on it. Mom said it road a lot better with the body on it.......

My trunk lids on my 37s had problems with the inner having rust going to the outer skin. I use an acid type of treatment to get the rust under control, before doing the repairs.... The drain holes get closed up and hold water....

Welcome Melton. You will find a few 38s on this site. good luck, Bob...

The first thing I did on my 48 project, was to get it running. Second, brakes. Third drive it a little on the property. I drove my 48 up and down my driveway for months, before going down the road one time. Everything else can be later. When working on a budget, there are many ways to further your dollars. You do not need new tires, that will only go bad before you wear them out, use safe used tires, like from your daily driver. Floor pans, use scrap metal. I use metal from cars I junk, and found shiny scrap metal at the scrap yard for scrap price. You can see on this site, many of us work on a budget, if we need to or not. good luck, Bob..

I believe the proportion valve should be near the MC to control how much pressure goes to the front, and how much pressure goes to the rear. The residual valve is to keep some pressure on the brakes when not in use....

Here is one of my temporary air cleaners I put together..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v240/38plybobhorne/glovebox/2005_0312Image0031.jpg This is my original 1938 Coupe's glovebox liner. I found a good fitting replacement(plastic) until I can find good material to make one close to the original (.60 chipboard).

Great idea. I use inside part of a valve stem for many bumpers...

Sounds like the starter relay/solenoid is stuck closed...

Great project there. Check brakes, safe tires, and drive it for awhile first, enjoy....

Another option you have, is to install a remote spin on type system. These are on Ebay for about $20. Spin on filters are available at any auto parts store. The advantages are, less expense, can be located away from electrical components, ease of changing, and less of a mess....

The link for members map I found is a couple of years old, maybe will work,,, http://www.mapservices.org/myguestmap/map/adam_knox

There use to be a members map on here, but I can not find the link. There is another member in Mt. Pleasant . Best I can remember there were cruise-ins, in Mt. Pleasant also.

Very nice looking 38 Delux you have, very similar to my 37 project...

Falcon, I noticed you put your battery over the rear axle, that is the way I have my 38's battery. Takes about 50lb on the front for a little bit more balance, I figure. You are doing a great job.....Bob..

I have heard that going topless is the way to have more fun......

Scott, look on ebay under "remote oil filter", and you will find very many oil filter adapters, such as the this photo. I use the original setup, with a Fram C3 cartridge from Tractor Supply, but a spin on type would be much easier to change.