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desoto1939

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Everything posted by desoto1939

  1. desoto1939

    Jon:  I have been collecting automotive catalogs for the past 30 years to help with the restoration of my 39 Desoto.  Some of my catalogs go back to the 1910 area and upto 1960.  These are a great learning opportunity to know what components will work on my car and other owners cars and or trucks.  I am in the process of trying to get a Wolert catalog. This company did a lot of OEM replacement parts for our cars and this one will go back into the 1930's.  Thanks for the posting on the forum. If you would like a listing of my various catalogs send me your home email and I will send you a list. I have scanned these onto cds so the paper is not getting used.

    Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com  cell 484-431-8157  Live near valley Forge Pa

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    1. medium_jon

      medium_jon

      That is an awesome undertaking. My son, Jacob (15) loves the look of Desotos, and would have rather had one than the 50 Plymouth I bought. But the Plymouth had a great body, was close, and ran - I know my skill level (none, yet, when it comes to autos)    

      I sure appreciate your helping everyone with your library-that is a full time hobby in its own right. 

       

  2. desoto1939
    just checked my Hollander book and none of the metal parts such as hood doors fenders roof frame will not interchange also steering gearing no interchange. The 40 was a real change from the 39. I do have a 39 hood if you are interested. Live near valley forge pa. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
  3. desoto1939
    Go with the ones that were listed on the bay that I found for you. The Good old stock had better materials and had the leather boot and not the crap junk from overseas. So you asked about price in your first posting. So think this way do you want to depend on some cheap items in which the steering is control for your car or for something that you know will last and is of great quality. You make the deciding factor. Rich Hartung
  4. desoto1939
    To all when the cowl mounted aftermarket coils where produced they did make a seperate coil braket the would slide onto the body of the coil and then the coil then got bolted to the cowl. the top line at the far left and right show the style that clamp around the coil and bolt to the firewall. rich hartung
  5. desoto1939
    gO TO YOUR NAPA STORE THERE ISA SPECIFIC 6 VOLT RADIO STATIC SUPPRESSOR. RICH HARTUNG
  6. desoto1939
    i WOULD SUGGEST THAT YOU CARYY AND EXTRA LENGTH OF RUBBER FUEL LINE WITH YOU INTHE CAR AS A BACKUP. JUST KEEP INSPECTING THE RUBBER LINE. RICH HARTUNG
  7. desoto1939
    in 1939 dESOTO HAD TWO TYPES OF ANTENNA FOR THEIR EQUIPTED CARS WITH THE RADIO. tHE WAY CALLED ROADWAY AND sKYEAY. tHE SKY WAY WAS A DOUBLE POSTED ANTENNA THAT WAS ATTACHED ON THE DRIVERS SIDE OF THE COWL AND WAS ON AN ANGLE NOT INSTALLED STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN AS MOST PEOPLE DID WHEN THE RADIO WAS INSTALLED AS AN AFTERMARKET ITEMS. tHE ROADWAY ANTENNA ARE TWO RODS THAT ARE ATTAHED DIRECTLY UNDER BOTH SIDE OF THE RUNNINGBOARDS AND THEY LOOK LIKE LIGHTNING RODS. i F HAVE THESE ON MY 1939 DESOTO AND THE CAR WAS DELIVERED WITH THESE FACTORY ANTENNA. i HAVE ALSO SEEN THE ANTENNA THAT IS MENTIONED IN THE PRIOR POSTS BUT ALSO BELEIVE THAT THESE ARE AFTERMARKET SO i CAN ONLY ACCOUNT FOR WHATS ON MY 39 DESOTO AND i ALSO HAVE FACTORY ACCESSORY SHEETS ON THE INSTALLATION OF THE RADIO AND ANTENNA FOR THE 1939 mOPARS. rICH HARTUNG DESOTO1939@AOL.COM
  8. desoto1939
    accIGS-4207-1 us the advance vc-2082rording to my autolite book 1946-48 Ply P15 American made uses the IGS-4207-1 dizzy the 46-48 Candadina use igs-4208B-1 1949 Ply uses theIAP-4103-1 use advance VC 3147 Rich Hartung
  9. desoto1939
    Here is the information that you need: According to my Toledo Steel Suspension Catalog for 1942-48 Plymouth. you need the following tie rod end both Right and Left of each series. I did a serach on ebay just a few minutes ago and here is what I found. All ties rods manufacturers used the same numbering system ES60 was used ont he right side or the car and ES131 was on the left side of the car. ES60 r&l right and left on ebay for $30 for the pair and these are old stock not remanufacturer ES131 r&l $25 for the pair NOS good old american made ES60 is a common tierod end. The collecting of the various catalogs has come to save the day again. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
  10. desoto1939
    Has the mechanic checked the vibration dampener this affects the internal vibration of the engine. Also as someone stated above check the three motor mounts they mabe be shot after 75 years. The front motor mount is what the engine rests on just below the water pump. Please check these and also the trans upper and lower motor mounts. They could be so hard rubber that they are not absorbing any of the engine vibrations. If you have not chnaged these then I would advise doing this first since it is and easy job for a mechanic to do. Get fresh rubber not NOS stock becasue the rubber gets hard over the years. i replace all my motos mounts when we had the clutch done. Have the mechanic check the driveshaft to see if there is any slop inthe ujoints. I have extra Detroit U joints with the internals and the housings and the leather covers if needed. I also have the miller tool to push out the pin and set the pin in the proper depth on the ball end of the drive shaft. Contact me if you need any of these items. These are NOS u-joints american made not chinese crap. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
  11. desoto1939
    Update on number and cars: The 39 Dodge uses a Harmonic balancer and this information was taken from my TriState MoPar Distributer catalog. There is another post with a owner that has a 39 Dodge and has a similar issue so this is the information that I sent to him According to My Tristate MoPar distrubtor catalog Ply 42-50 Vibration Dampener with Pulley 869431 Dodge 37-50 dampener with pulley 869431 Desoto 38-42 but not Fluid drive 869431 Chrylser 41-50 With Fluid Drive 869431 also check your parts book and I assume that you have a 39 Dodge parts book as a reference. So my thinking is that there should be some available. Hope this helps. This is why you need the supportive catalogs. I also verified in my 39 Dodge Parts manual that there is a Impulse Neutralizer ( vibration dampeners.) The 1939 part number is 677995 but also looked in the my 36-42 Dodge Master parts catalog and the number is the same as the above 869431 which covers more years. Hope this helps. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
  12. desoto1939
    on your 39 dodge just like my 39 Desoto you have a harmonic balancer and lower pulley or otherwise known as a vibration dampener. This might have good bad and then you get vibrations when the car engine is running. This happened to me when the rear and front motor mounts were replaced and we picked up the vibration. Upon putting on a new harmonic balance the issue was resolved. Check the other posting in regarding to the other gentleman that has a 39 Dodge and I listed the various cars and years that use the same harmonic balancer. Have your mechanic check the balancer to see if there is any sort of wobble in the lower pulley. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com .
  13. desoto1939
    jipjob: contact me rich Hartung about the tool, yes I have the ammoc and also the factory miller tool and can tell you all about the tool. desoto1939@aol.com cell 484-431-8157 home 610-630-9188
  14. desoto1939
    The first question is are you using the electric pump and also which model pump, to just act as a priming pump or are you leaving this pump on after the fuel has reached the carb. Sounds as if you are leaving the pump run too long and is the engine running when the electric pump is pushing fuel to the carb? I use an Airtex electric pump just to prime my carb and let it run till the bowl has fuel in the carb and also fuel filter, so say about 30 Seconds. Start the car with the pump running keep gas moving then I shut the electric fp off with a toggle switch. I do not see why a fuel regulatory would affect the mechanical FP. Some of the more experienced guys might have more input. Rich Hartung
  15. desoto1939
    Update on number and cars: According to My Tristate MoPar distrubtor catalog Ply 42-50 Vibration Dampener with Pulley 869431 Dodge 37-50 dampener with pulley 869431 Desoto 38-42 but not Fluid drive 869431 Chrylser 41-50 With Fluid Drive 869431 So my thinking is that there should be some available. Hope this helps. This is why you need the supportive catalogs. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
  16. desoto1939

    Pummppy: I know of a shop in Downington that might be interested in the car. They have a lot of moPars and the one guy has a 50 Desoto Sedan. Their number is 484-693-0640. The name of the shop is Rob's Rod Shop. I spoke to them this morning and they said to give them a call. I am trying to save this care so no one  sends it to the junk yard.

     

    Rich Hartung  Desoto1939@aol.com  cell 484-431-8157  home 610-630-9188  call me if you want to talk.

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  17. desoto1939
    If you motor has the harmonic balancer then you want to have one on your engine it smooths out the engine. I have one on my 39 Desoto so replace it. The dampener dotoc r rebuilds yours he is not cheap. Also check ebay I think the dampener for the dodge and Desoto might be the same and there was one listed for 39 Desoto around $300 if I remember correctly lister is in Georgia. Rich Hartung
  18. desoto1939
    pumppy10: I attended the chester county antique car clubs april meeting tonight and I mentioned the information about your 51 Plymouth. If there is anyone interested I will contact you. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
  19. desoto1939
    I would assume that you do not have a parts book or manual for your truck. This is one of the first few things tht you should buy when restoring or owning an antique car/truck. I would also suggest that you also purchase the Hollander book for your own reference material. These books are great and will also tell you what other parts are interchangeable and it will provide you with a lot of information. This is what the junkyards used when they resold parts. My Hollander does not go up to your truck year so I can not help you. Also a rate manual also somethimes list part numbers so that is another good book and also a motors book. I am not trying to be smart with my answer back to you but acquire the basic materials and you will have the information for your own library. Rich Hartung
  20. desoto1939
    pumppy10; This is rich Hartung here in valley forge with the 39 Desoto. Send me a PM and what are you asking for the car. I am going to my local Chester county Antique car Club meeting on Tuesday and will announce that the car is for sale. Any info or a write up would be helpful. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com 484-431-8157 cell
  21. desoto1939
    Since wheel cylinders and can step downs which means that there are two different sizes in a single cylinder then there is additional machining that has to be done versus a single sized cylinder. As the price for materials and labor increase a company that doses this type of work does not want to quote a price and then have to increase the price. So as done has stated it is better to call the company and ask for a quote directly from them. I have visited White Post and toured their facility and they have very good craftsman. Rich Hartung
  22. desoto1939
    Are you sure that you have power to the low side and the high side of the plastic plug for the lights. But a test light on the low beam connector on the plastic connector and see if you test light indicates a complete connection. Do the same with the high beams. Also test the same at the junction block for high and low beam. Might also be that you have two bard headlights. When you depress the floor high/low beam switch do you have power to the light junction box for the high and low depending on how the floor switch is pressed? If you have high and low power continuity then the issue would be from the junction block and the individual wire that is leading to the plastic socket for the light bulb. Also check that the contacts are clean and secure and the wires are tight also check the ground wire in the plastic socket you might have lost the ground connection. Rich Hartung
  23. desoto1939
    The first question is did you have a glass bowl on your old FP that you took off the car? If you did then the same glass bowl and gasket should work on the New Airtex FP. The original FP was a 588 and this is the same pump as the 588 but just renumbered by airtex. Give that a try and let us know if it fits. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
  24. desoto1939
    are the pictures that youhave posted of the carb after the carb has been rebuilt with the repair kit and then put on the car to test the carb? There is a lot of reidue on the body of the carb. I would suggest that the carb be taken apart and completely recleaned in side and out. Did you put the two small ball bearings into the correct holes. ALOT OF PEOPLE BUT THE WRONG BB AND THEN THIS CAUSE THE CARB NOT TO WORK CORRECTLY. To get the correct repait kit you need to know what model Carter Ball & Ball carb you have. On the top of the carb body near where the fuel line attaches to the carb on the flange clean this area real well there will be about 4 letters of number stamped into the flange. You need to know these number and or letter so that you get the correct kits and gaskets. If you then know the number then you can do a search on Ebay and you also might find a kit. But first reclean this carb and then inspect the entire unit. Rich Hartung
  25. desoto1939
    you are welcome. This is why I collect the older literature when I find it at the swap meets and also Hershey. I found the whole lot of 1939 Desoto accessory Sheets and service bulletins at last years Hershey event. o you never know what you are going to find and the information is so valuable. Rich Hartung
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