desoto1939

who ctreated the loomed wireing harness for you. I am assuming that one of the major wireing companies made it up so they should have provided you with a diagram of where each wire attaches on the car. Also do you have a service manual onyour car. There should be a factory diagram in the repair manual as to where each wire goes. Rich Hartung

Here is a link to a great article on Ball & Ball Carbs and the history that Chrysler had with the Ball & Ball brothers and then they were merged with Carter. www.allpar.com/cars/adopted/carter.html Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

good luck wit the truck. Since you were considering to purchase the truck from the seller I would have thought tht you might have asked those same questions to the seller during you inspection of the truck. The seller might not have know the answer but then atleast you would then have to do some research onthe truck via the internet. Hope you got a fiar price onthe truck and it al depend on what you want to do with the truck. If just for fun and your pleasure and local car/truck shows or to have it judged in an AACA show. If having judged then there are some issues that need to be addressed prior toshowing the turck, but if it is intended to be a driver and useable truck then you are fine. Noticed that there is some paint discoloration on the fender where the D100 badges are attached so this is an indicator that there might have been rust of prior damage that is now starting to show up again. But all in all you can park this truck in my garage anyday becasue i want a fun truck to use and not a trailor queen truck. Just my observations. Rich Hartung

sad to hear this from a club member. Since we do not know both sides it is hard to comment. Maybe the other person had cash on hand and was willing to pay a premium for the part and was able to pickit up when the offer was made. But since you were workign with him they should have come back to you so you could counter offer if that was the case. rich Hartung

Don: My car has sat for approx 3-4 weeks since I last started the car. I pulled the airhorn off the top of the carb on my factory B&B carb. The fuel bowel did not have any gas in the chmaber and the float was at the low point. My inline glass AC fuel filter that is approx 3 inches prior to the input tot he needle value was still full with gas. So you might have apoint about the stromberg carbs. Since my carb is the original it also might be from a worn gasket or bushing not sure since I have not had it professoanly rebuilt. I have rebuilt it myself. So this might be something to consider doing inthe future. Not sure if there are any stombergs that were maded to fit my car. I do not have any crossreference on Stromberg so it would be hard for my to know which is the correct carb to replace. Also what is the coast and other modifications that might have to be made to make it work is also an unknown. So I can live witht he priming of the carb with the electric pump. If you have any info on the Stromberg could you send it to me. Thanks, Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

first question is for what year and car because there are different channels. Rich Hartung

Don, I have a Ball and Ball cater carb and the original carb for the car. Yes when it sits I have to use my electric pump to pump gas up the line. But If I startit every day like I would have been like an owner back in 1939 there is no issue. I think some of the issue might be that the newer gas ye might evaporate and also since the fuel line and fuel pump is so low on the front of the engine the fuel might just run back down to the pump. This is only a quesstimation on my part. So if thje Stromberg carbs are so much better then why did Chrysler only put them on the Dodge and not the higher priced chrylsers and Desoto's and only put them on the next to last car division based on price? Rich Hartung

Don, To prove the fact that the Stromberg is a tighter fit than the carter then you would have to let the same car sit for the same amount of time and then prior to trying to start the car then take the air horn off the carb and then see if there is any fuel in the bowel and the rest of the carb. You stated that you had to pump the pedal a few times so not sure if this proves that the Stromberg is better than the Carter. Also would have to test the carter is the same fashion to make a true comparison as to which has the tighter fir and the less evaporation of gas. Rich Hartung

The c wrench that don has a picture of is called an obstruction wrench. You can get these at any HArbor Freight or any good tool place. Also you can get one sometime at the local swap meets. might be 9/16 and the other end 3/8 or something of that comination. If you put a socket on one of the bolts then you can determine which is the proper size opening on the ends that you willneed. These are cheap. Do not have to buy a snap-on because you will not be using it everyday so a middle grade C wrench will do you just fine. I have one in my tool box with the car. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Mike sent you a PM on this subject. Also if you have the original MoPar wheel cylinders and can not find any based on the info that i sent in the posting then I would have them resleeved with stainless steel inserts, It will not be cheap becasue you have the stepped wheel cylinders but it will be better that brand new and also so much better than any repro chineese junk. I would say look for NOS Wagner or EIS brake components. i do have a Wagner and EIS brake catalog so can provide more info if needed. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

this is the seat adjusting lever that would be on the drivers side of the front seat and it would have been chrome plated not painted the color of the car or interior. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

you might want to do a search on regulatorroy. He is located in Mulica Hill NJ and has a large selection of window regulator and he might have the parts. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

I looked in my EIS catalog and here is the info that you are lokking for. Again the collecting of master catalogs pays off. EW3595 Front left fits Cgry 1936-39, Desoto 1936-38, Dodge 1936-38 Ply except commercila car 1935-38 Dodge trk 3/4 1 ton 1941-53 EW3596 Front right same as above the above two would have a casting number of 528 EW3597 Rear Left Desoto 1937-38, dodge 37-38, plymouth all 35 and 1937-38, Chryler c14,c15,c16, 1937 all 1938c24 and 1939 EW3598 rear right same as the above fitting theabove would have a casting number 529 The EW#### is a standard universal number for all manufacturers of Wheel Cylinders. these are all step down wheel cylinders 1 1/4 x 1 3/8 So hope this helps I have pictures of the cyinders and other data. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com c: 484-431-8157

also on 39 Desoto rich Hartung

gary: Attached is a page fromthe 39 Dodge parts book and also two pages fromt eh 36-42 Dodge master parts book. Hope this helps. Call me if you need more info. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com 39 dodge fender braces.pdf 39 dodge fender braces p2.pdf

As stated before AMS Obsolete is the OLD Frank Mitchells company y that had been in Columbus Ohio that went to Georgia. They have original Mopar parts not the cheapest but you get quality parts. I have delt with them over the past 30+ years. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

currently on ebay there is a set of front fender braces for a 1939 Plymouth and Dodge. Hope this helps. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Go for original MopAR, Thompson, Moog or Toledo Steel Products. These were all AMERICAN made suspension products and the quality willbe great. I have catalogs on all of these manufactureres. Rich Hartung

The heat riser is used when owners live in cold climate areas and is to help prevent the formation of an iceing effect onthe bottom of the carb base. When the weather is cold the vaporized fuel then ices up and forma a white layer of ice on the base of the car and then this will cause you to have a very rough idle and also cause the car to stall out. The option is to pull out the throttle to keep the car running at a higher rpm and then when you are going again after a stop then you can lower the rpm via the throttle. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

I know it is early on the last day of 2016 but just want to wish everyone a HAPPY NEW YEAR for 2017. May everyone have good health for the coming year. There are going to be alot of changes in 2017 with the changing of the guard in Washington. So I guess we all have to just hold tight and go along with the ride. The best part is that we can all escape and take a ride in out old Trusty and tried and true MoPars and hopefully forget about the issue. Wishing all of the European members the first Happy New Years celebration because you are several hours ahead of us on the East Coast of the USA. Hope everyone gets to accomplish what they set out to do with their cars and trucks and have safe journeys in their old and also modern cars. Rich Hartung Valley Forge, PA

Merry Xmas to all of the Forum Member from Valley Forge where George Washington Spent the very cold and snowy winter in very crude makeshift Log huts to provide us with the rights to celebrate Christmas in the United states. Or should I say that we still have the rights to say Christmas and not just Holiday Celebration because we might offend someone. But this is the US and I am going to say MERRY XMAS or MERRY CHRISTMAS Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

OK. Since I have the catalogs from McQuay - Norris which was a major supplier of engine and other car parts. The following pages were taken from their 1914-37 catalog and I have listed the information in order as DPCD so Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler then Desoto. I am not an expert on engines but hope this provides some info and the more experienced members can get specific on the topic. Has the original poster or anyone else look at the attachments in which I listed the various bearing that were used on the DPCD cars and trucks. I was hoping this would have answered the original posters question regarding engine bearings. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

OK. Since I have the catalogs from McQuay - Norris which was a major supplier of engine and other car parts. The following pages were taken from their 1914-37 catalog and I have listed the information in order as DPCD so Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler then Desoto. I am not an expert on engines but hope this provides some info and the more experienced members can get specific on the topic. the second set of sheets is also from McQuay-Norris and cover from approx 37-59 Enjoy the data Rich Hartung Desoto1939 Engine Bearings DPCD McQuay-Norris.pdf Engine Bearings DPCD McQuay-Norris 1937 and up.pdf

We need to know which model Chrysler that you have is it a c28, c30,c33 because there are different lengths according to my AC speedometer catalog According to my AC speedometer cable catalog the C28 speedometer cable has an O.D of.130, then end to end length is 86 7/32 then boths ends are square to 104. The end that goes intot he trans is square but the end that goes in the back of the speedometer will have a flat washer and then a color approx. 3/4 from the end. Like I said I have a complete AC speedometer catalog with a lot of specific length and what end pieces are used on the various speedometer cable. The info is also avialble on CD format.rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com