desoto1939

49 Desoto engine. This according to the Don Butler book. The Desoto 6 cylinder L-Head engine was continued from the former series which was the 1948 model, but given a new cyloinder head providing 7 to 1 compression ratio. the bore and stroke of 3 7/16 x 4 1/4 inches was unchanged but refinements upped hp from 109 to 112. Chrysler informed the market and dealers that any car produced after dec1 1948 when then the 1949 models The 49 would be indicated as the S13 so I woud think that the engine serial number then would have the S11 indicator and the older engine would have the S11 prefix In another book it states that cares produced from 12/1/48 to march1 49 were first series and then after that date 2nd series. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

purchase the newer style nickel cooper brakelines they are much easier to bend. I doubt that a napa store would have the prebent lines for your car so you will have to bend and then flare the lines. Rich Hartung

PJ this is rich Hartung here in Valley Forge PA. Do you know the mopar part numbers for the oil seals and outer bearing I have a cros reference catalog but need to know the part numbers. Desoto1939@aol.com cell 484-431-8157 home 610-630-9188

Yes the stock shocks that were supplied by Mopar were rebuild able but I doubt that anyone of our cars would have the rebuild able shocks. You would have to assume that they would have been replaced when the newer airplane shock became available on the market. The early shocks were made by Delco and they require special tools to take them apart and to service them and also hydraulic fluid. If I have the opportunity to purchase the old rebuild able versus the newer hydraulic or gas filed shocks i would go with the newer shocks. even if you could find them I would think the cost is another factor and the other factor would be if you could get the internal parts and also the tools. There isa section in my 39 Desoto service manual that shows how to rebuild the old style shocks. I just looked in my 39 Desoto parts manual and the only difference between the regular shock that were used on the 16 inch wheel for the regular cars versus the shocks that were used on the heavier 7 pass limo the parts number are allthe same except that on the 7 pass limo the inner parts for the rebound vale spring is a different number so that might provide a little more resistance but overall they were the same according to the break down of the various parts that were used for the shocks this was for the front and also the rears.. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I have a set of Monroe Stock gas shocks in my 39 Desoto for over 30 years and have almost 20000 miles on the set. So I also agree that they ride nice and have not had any leakage or issues with the ride or even the performance of the shocks, would recommend them as replacement and you also know the numbers because of prior posting. You stated that the shocks you have been using wear out after 5000 miles. So the question is are you running on rough and rutted roads and back country roads with a lot of ruts and going very fast with your car to cause this issue or do you mainly travel of paved roads that are fairly good in condition? rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

In the above picture the hole that is near the return outlet on this pump will require the use of a new bolt if you are trying to put this waterpump on a car that would use the older version of this water pump. On the older water pump from the mid to late 30 and possibly mid 40's the main body of the pu,p was different. On the above pump just near the casting number 254 the body is now thicker, on the older style pumps the pump body was only approx. 1/2 inch thick at this point and the original stud that was used in the block permitted the use of a bolt to hold the body to the front on the block. In the version that is shown the pump was redesigned to use a threaded bolt instead of the use of the stud. So if you have the older styrl pump then you need to make sure you have the correct body fromt he supplier or either pull the original stud so that you can then use the new bolt that is being supplied with new redesigned pumps that are now available. refer to the attached picture of the old style with the 1/2 thickness where the stud comes through the body Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com The bolt home just under the return outlet on the far left is where the body has become thicker and the newer style also has a threaded plug to a return line so becareful in which pump you order. this picture is one from an early prewar Mopar car.

P Adams you stated that any museum is off topic and the way you stated it is that you did not care if it closed or not. But the museum pertained to our cars so it is of a major topic. Again you are entiled to you feelings and so be it but when you attacked the original poster in that you felt it was not important than that gives the opinion and I say opininion is my sence of the word that you could not care about the Chrysler museum. I am not complaining but other members of this forum can be very opinion anted and say what ever they want and no one comes down on them so that is my opinion. Hartung

I think it should stay. The Chrysler Museum represents the history of our cars and trucks. It soes not represent Fiat, Ford, GM or any of the other car manufacturers. It was specific to our cars and truck that we as members of the P15D25 forum appreciate. Yes the museum will close in 16 days but so why do we want to hide the fact that a great museum that had a great collection of Mopar Vintage is closing. feel that the members should know the information. If it had not been placed on this side of the forum I might have missed reading the posting. But Mr Adams states he can not care about the museum if and when it closes and that is his opinion but from what I have seen other people feel it should stay posted on this side of forum and eventually it will disappear with the rest of the topics. To the gentleman that started the post thank you for interest in posting the information. For the ones that do not care then they can just not read the posting and the numerous members that have added a posting. No one is correct and no one is wron on this topic just information being sent out to the members that might care. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

then I guess we should only be discussing topic's that deal directly with the fix or question on our old cars. The topic of the Chrysler Museum should be on the forum as a main topic. The other point that has not been mentioned is if they will discontinue the offer of providing the history to a Chrysler owner car. The Historical section provided that service for a fee. So I would suggest that if you want to know anything about your car or truck that you get the request into them ASAP NO OTHER CAR MANUFACTURER WAS PROVIDING THIS TYPE OF DOCUMENTATION. Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Brake lining uses brass rivets and not copper rivets. Also brakelining rivets come is various sizes and there are specific to the car and brake shoe. According to my brake catalog your car will use a rivet number 4-5 So it would be a group 4 brass rivet the shank is 9/64 the head is 5/16 and the length is 5/16 you will also need a tool to peen over the rivet. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Art Gould from New York. His son is now running the business located in Kings Park NY 631-269-0093 http://arthurgouldrebuilders.com/

there are special tools to rebuild a water pump and this include refacing the internal on the pump shaft and also getting the hub installed correctly and the hole in the shat drilled squarely through the shaft. I have these tools. but the cost of a kit is almost the same and often times more than a rebuilt and sometime an new pump. Go for the new pump and then all you have to do is install it. After you rebuild the pump there is still the possibility that it will leak again so eliminate that and save yourself some time, aggravation and dollars. I have the various miller factory tools Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Yes replace. But make sure he is sending you the correct pump. Some of the newer pumps will not fit correctly on the lower left stud when looking directly from the front of the engine block check to see how long of a stud that you have in your bloack and also to see if where the stud comes throught the body of the water pump is only approc 1/2 inch think. Some of the new replacement WP have the same body but in the area that I told you to look at the body and casting is much thicker and the stud will not stickout and then you can not bolt up the unit. With the newer style they supply you with a new bolt that has the threads so you can bolt it into the block. If you have the stud then you will have to pull the stud. I am very causous when havint to pull a stud that has been in the water jacket area for along time because there isa very good chance that the stud will snap off. So look up your part number for your pump and make sure that the one he is selling is the exact replacement pump and not just a look alike pump. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Clay: Glad to hear that the webpage is helping members with parts identification. How is the 47 coming along. Look like you are doing some real great work on the car. Hope you had a goof thanksgiving and wish you a merry Xmas. Rich Hartung

ralph: in the attached picture are you asking about the zerk fitting that is on the differential outside shaft just near the flange to the back of the brake backing plate or the area on the bottom of the backing plate that has the rust area on which the paint has been removed. Some think you are referring to the rust area and I think you are talking about the specific zerk fitting is on the axle shaft near the flange. If the zerk fitting then refer to the above discussion and how to grease the back of the bearing. After looking at your picture I do see a drip of oil or some type of fluid that is just about ready to drip down onto the rim. And also on the rim and inside tires you can also see the same fluid.. You might have a leaky wheel cylinder and not a leak form the zerk fitting. I would suggest that you clean the area first and or remove the wheel and pull the drum to verify that the lower cylinder is not leaking. Also noticed that the fluid is dripping down onto the inside lip and then running to the outside of the rim. If brake fluid is the paint bubbling up on the rim green paint. You might also have to replace the inner oil seal and this might be the cause of the issue but pulling the drum and wheel will only confirm the situation. Rich Hartung

I have the same hole in the axle on my 39 Desoto. It is closed off with a threaded plug/ The plug is remove and then 1 oz of grease is plase on your finger tip and the grease is pushed into the back of the bearing. They state to not sue a zerk fitting because then you will force under pressure too much grease intot he area and this will cause the grease to come out of the axile shaft and onto the brake linings. You can use wheel bearing grease but push it in with your finger tip.. Rich Hartung

Doctor'sIN: If you are having issues with getting the brake shoes aligned and adjusted I do have the Ammco 1750 Brake gage tool to adjust the brake shoes/ Contact me me concerning the tool if you need to use it. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Could also find a spring company that does springs for cars and see if they might have some of these clamps in stock or even a newer pair and replace on all of the leaf springs. If you have them both down then make them all the same and no one will know the difference. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

As per already stated this is assuming and I must state again that you have a NOS non cut drum that is perfect then this would work. As soon as your drum has been cut then the above tool is not going to give you the perfect adjustment. You either need the Ammco 1759 Brake gage or the Miller MT19 factory Brake tool to get the shoes to be in a perfect match and also have the two shoes arced to match the drum. This is the perfect setup to having the best braking option for the Lockheed brakes. I do have the Ammco Brake gage 1750. Also refer to the technical section and there are several pictures of the process of how the two brake gages are used. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

from the above table entry I was able to cross reference the mopar number 863510 and that crosses over to the EIS Master cylinder number E1687. If you refer back tot he pictures that I posted this is the picture that is shown on the MC in the type K pictures and has the 1 1/8 bore. The other two number that xrefed from the above chart are not listed. So when going to swap meets look at the casting number on the side of the MC. if you finf a Wagner MC then the casting number would be FE1687. From what I have seen the industry used the same numbering system but some have put their own Prefix number to the unit prior to the use of the same casting number. So e1687 and FE1687 are the same MC but come from different manufacturers. reading and understanding these catalogs can be a great learning process and knowledge is great to have. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com 484-431-8157 cell

did a search on Ebay use this : MOPAR/EIS master cylinder kit, for 1950 to 54. One inch. Item: 5165 this is a GGG kit and has the 1 inch piston. take a look to see if it fits its only 11 dollars. Mike work used on 50 -55 Chrylser and Desoto so maybe someone put in the Chry/Desoto MC in this car because it might have been a close fit. Call me if you have any questions. Live near Philadelphia cell 484-431-8157 home 610-630-9188 call me I am at home now if you want to talk. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

In my EIS Brake catalog there is a Chrysler Cross reference section to the EIS number. The number that you are providing 863425 is not in my book so I can not provide any crossover to the appropriate EIS Master Cylinder. I also looked around that numbering and there is nothing even close to this number. Do you have a parts book for your car and if so what number is listed in the parts manual this might help us narrow down the correct MC. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

word of caution: If you are planning to have your truck judged at an AACA event the hight polished white oak with the high gloss stain will be an automatic deduction of points and might disqualify you from winning. AACA has determined that the original beds for the old trucks were rough cut white pine and they would have been painted a black color. Any truck that has been a previous winner has been grandfatherd and will not have any deductions. So the point is that do what you want but be prepared if you go to have it judged. Most people want the high gloss white oak affect with the polished stainless strips. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

If you are not experienced in body and fender repair I would be very couscous with the shrinking disk. If you really want to have the perfect sides then I would take to a good body guy and have them work on them. I know my talents and that is not one of them so I would farm it out, but maybe you have done prior body and dent work and feel comfortable doing this type of work. If you do too much damage then it will cost you even more to fix what you have done, get an estimate from a professional to see what the cost would be. Someone might do it in their slow time on a straight hourly rate. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com