desoto1939

The old one is an AC588 fuel pump and was used on the dodge engines that does not have the connection for the vacuum wiper motor. Do you have a separate line that connects to the vacuum line for the wiper. Rich Hartung

Clayton Thanks for posting the picture of the tool and how you used it on your distributor. I co[pied the picture and put it into my Miller Power Point presentation on Miller Tools. I now see that you have gotten hooked on acquiring the tools also and now you see the advantage. Rich Hartung

After someone posted about the DOE SNOT I also had to laugh at my own post. It would be funny to see some DOE SNOT on mine since the Doe would have to crawl under the car because my battery is under my front seat. Hope everyone had a good laugh and I guess you figured it out it is not DOE SNOT but should be DOES NOT. Good laugh by everyone. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

To keep your battery life longer we have discussed at the AACA annual meeting lecture series thaty you should have a battery tender onyour car while it it sitting idle. The main problem is that the battery discharges without one and then the plates start to corrode and build up on them and they loose their charge by keeping it fully charge these is less corrosion and the battery doe snot have to keep getting recharged after sitting along time. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

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trying to post a very large resolution picture get message that you can only upload a 3mb file. tried the drag option and did not permit me and also used the choose files option. so i think that the size of the image does matter and suggest that you take a picture at the lowest resolution. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

I sent you a PM this morning

Mr Smith you are sort of the winner. The two inner wedges are used to remove the grease cap or as officaly knows as the hub cap. The two outer splines are used to remove the dog dish outer wheel cover or as we call them the hubcap. So Don has figured out the tool Rich Hartung

This is a two part tool. One of the operations of the tool has been discovered and that the inner part of the tool at the two upper most wedges is used to remove the front wheel bearing or grease cap and offically known as the hub cap. becsaue this is the cap over the hub of the front brake drum. Ok so one more use of the tool still needs to be identified. This is an early Miller tool because of the C and three digit number on the tool. Keep quessing someone is going to figure it out. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

I always set my camera to the lowest possible image size that is made for sending with email attachments and with this setting I have no issues with attaching a picture on the forum. Rich Hartung

Dodgeb4ya: The answer is yes and if i purchased it from you then you know what it is. If you know then lets keep the rest of the group quessing. Rich

Just verified in my EIS and Wagner Brake catalog. EIS Master unit is E544 wagner is FE544 with 1 1/4 bore Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Ok I have a Miller Factory Tool that was made in the Mid 1930's. The object is for someone to guess what the tool was used for. It has a Letter c - xxx. Some hints. It is not a tool my wife uses to persude me to do some work around the house. It is not a pickle fork for removing the tierod ends It is not the tool that is used to remove the gasket and seal on the transmission. The two ends have been coated with a plastic dip so as to protect the area where this comes in contact with the car. I did the dip on the ends. Also look close to the inner part of the tool. This tool is used to remove two items and are sort of connected to each other. I will put up the final information in a couple of days along with the factory pictures and description taken from my Miller Catalog. Hint you strike the top of the handle to remove something Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com. cell 484-431-8157

I collect the miller tools inorder to help the owners of these clssic MoPars so that they can keep them in running condition. The factory tools make it much easier to do a job then trying to use a home made tool. The prices have to be just right for me to purchase. Most of the tools that I have are also in the original Miller Metal tool boxes. Dodgeb4ya. If you need the C-716 let me know. Rich Hartung

A gentleman that knew that I collect these tools sent me an email with the pictures of the individula tools and then the descriptions are taken from my three Miller Tool catalogs that cover from 1930-50's. I do not use them all but it is just a nice assortment of various tools that are disappearing and this gets added to my collection and when I decided to sellthe 39 Desoto then the collection will then go up for sale. But will rent out the various tools if needed. Rich Hartung

I just acquired several more Miller Factory Tools and will try to post the pictures of the tools. C-604 for all Dodge,Des, Chry and Ply hydraulically operated Trans. Trans reverse idler gear shift puller C-609 for all fluid drive equiped cars. This is the clutch driven plate aligning Arbor C-625 this is a partila set of tools runner hub bearing and bushing puller C-714 For all Dod, Des, Chry and Ply hydraulicially operated trans. Transmission poston return spring compressor. C-716 for 1946-53 Dod,Des and Chry Hydraulically operated trans. Trans countershaft needle bearing assembly arbor C-745 for all Ply,Dod, Des and Chry Sixes.This is the rear axle shft oil seal installing Sleeve. Not to be used on the Eight and 7 passenger cars DD-286 or c-3181 for all models. Clutch shaft pilot bushing installing and burning tool. Now I have both tools the DD and the C Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com.

Ok you state the fuel bowel is full and I assume this is on the FP. But have you pulled the top of the airhorn on the carb to see if there is fuel in the bowl on the carb. The needle valve that permits gas to fillthe bowl on the carb might be stuck. Sometime there is a rubber tit or tip on the needle and this might have gotten stuck or there might be something lodge inthis area. You need to also check to see if fuel is even gitting pumped up the fuel line to the carb as has been suggested before. Please verify what you have done on these two points and you might find the casue of the problem. ALso might be the accelerator pump that is in the carb. Rich Hartung

I would first check if you have one the service manual for your car. It should have a wiring schmatic for the car and it will show you how the wires are attached under the dash then check to make sure you have the wires running to and from the appropriate posts or other guages. Sounds as if you have a hot wire running from the amp metter directly to the fuel gage. go under the dash and find the wires. Rich Hartung

Check the clip that holds the flaot assembly in the top of the carb. Someone had a similar issue and they found that the spring clip that holds the float in place was not longer in the correct slot and had moved and the flaot was not working. Just a thought. Again what do you mean by tickle the carb. Rich HArtung

You you think it is still driveable, but the question is that you think it is, BUT do you know if the engine runs, the trans is working, the OD is working, the entire brake system is working. You wil need glass in all windows, you will need headlight buckets and the glass and the reflectors and the trim rings, Tail light buckets electrical wiring, New tires. Posibly a new speedometer setup and mostly likely a hot rod setup becasue these speedometers are not found that easily. The Chrysler and the desoto are hard car to find all of the original parts along with the Dodge and the Plumouth is easier. Also remember alot of the parts are not transferable from Dod/Ply to Chry/Desoto. Just weight out the missing items and the possibility that the engine does not start or is stuck along with the trans and rear end. I am ony just putting questions to ponder before you spend your money. As some else stated get a get that is already running with less of the headaches. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

if the engine is an industrial engine then they did not care about the heat riser. All they did was pull the throttle cable and kept the engine running at faster speed because they were probably looking to get the most out of the engine to run some other piece of equipment. The heat riser was mostly used in the cars that were used in the parts of the country that had winter type weather so that the carb did not ice over as I stated in my prior posting. Rich Hartung

I have the cousin to this car the 39 Desoto. You will have a hard time finding the original white plastic insert pieces that are used on the dash. Since these were the early bakeilite plastic they crack and then crumble over the years. The rear seat lookas as if it has been redone. It might be leather which was an option but not be original. I have been collecting 39 Desoto parts for the past 25+ years and these parts are getting harder to find even at Hershey in the fall. New mats on the running boards will cost about $700 so becareful and look over the car and determine if there is any real rot out and if there is any missing parts. Does it have an overdrive look at the steering column to see if there isa button that you pull and it is labeled as OD. How are the floor boards and the trunk area, usuaully the small lower section that holds the jack is ususally rotted away. How are the bottoms of the doors. Contact me if you have any questions about this car I alsohave a lot of cross reference catalogs that can also help with the restoration. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com Live near Valley forge PA

he original poster has stated that he has bleed and there is no air in the plastic line or catch jar. Since I have done this style of brake before I will put down a $10 bill that since he has new shoes and possibly moved the eccentrics that the shoes are not adjusted properly. A gentle about 3 months ago has the same issue and then when he did get back to us he indicated that after getting the brakes shoes adjusted properly then he had a great pedal. Listen to the people that have the appropriate tools or find a ford owner that has lockeheed braskes and they might have the tool since they would have the same issue with a soft pedal. Rich Hartung.

You are going to need so type of tool either the ammco brake gage or maybe make up the tool that was shown in the prior post. I looked at this home made tool and it look as if it might work to get an adjustment but the Ammco tool would be the better tool if you can borrow one from some one that might have it. Also note that some of the FORD also used Lockheed brakes so if you have any Ford friend with the Lockheed brakes they might have the tool over in Bloody Olde England. Rich HArtung