Sniper

Too much roughage cracked the pipe

Good luck keeping it 12v positive ground. Not sure why you want to do that. As for the rest of the stuff, some nice to have, some not needed/ That fuel gauge converter you link? Too expensive and you only have one gauge that cares, the fuel level. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Runtz-12-Volt-to-6-Volt-Voltage-Reducer,2374.html Here's a clue any parts place that has VIntage in it's name, will charge you a lot for the privilege. Not near as much as MoParPro, but still. Those 12v to 6v reducers? https://us.rs-online.com/product/arcol/hs100-2r-f/71432076/ That solenoid? I used 1M1030, under $10 at rockauto. https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/wve,1M1030,starter+solenoid,4188

Best gasket shows .052" compressed for the 523C gasket https://bestgasket.com/head-gasket-bore-thickness/

Probably wouldn't hurt to put some lock specific lube in the tumbler assembly.

You now, with the Motive power bleeder I bought, it takes more time to put the car up on jack stands than it does for me to bleed all four brakes, by myself.

I wonder if you put a vacuum on a brake system that has Dot 5 in it could you get the air out of the system?

I think it's part number 1261004, good luck finding it though,

A little cheaper here http://www.amsnos.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=65 Our "buddy" moparpro https://www.ebay.com/itm/173758669865 Moparmall https://www.moparmall.com/MoPar-PN-620954-Exhaust-Manifold-p/848-068.htm

I recently helped by son flush the brake fluid on his BMW. They specify a low viscosity DOT 5.1 fluid. According to what I read the low viscosity was a requirement for proper traction/electronic stability/ABS function. Nothing we need to worry about in our cars but as Rich says buyer beware. Don't assume parts is parts, lol. the BMW spec stuff will work in our stuff, but DOT3 will not work in the BMW.

And not breaking down. It wasn't the fastest car on the field but it was the fastest one that finished, lol. I think I read the average speed for the 500 miles was like 75 mph. 75 mph... some think running at 65 is too fast. My 51 can do 65 easily, haven't got it much past 70 though, no need I rarely drive on the highway around here and when I do the speed limit is 65. If I ever take it to visit Los Control well 75 is the speed limit going there. Some where I have a pic of Lee Petty's Plymouth he raced in that time frame. Oddly enough both those Nascar racers and my 51 are black cars...hmm.

I mostly meant more content in general. But you know intellectually stimulating would be the gravy on the biscuit wouldn't it?

From the Mopar Montana guys https://www.moparmontana.com/tech-faq.html HEAD TORQUE Your block should ideally be decked to give a smooth flat surface for optimum sealing. Head bolt holes should be chamfered and thread chased with a tap after decking. A modern composition head gasket will give the best results and these are available off-the-shelf from Fel-Pro for 23" and 25" Mopar flathead 6's. Fel-Pro recommends using a sealant on the copper (block) side of the gasket. Vintage double sided copper gaskets require sealant on both sides. A copper spray such as Copper Coat works well. EDGY heads have a very smooth, flat surface for use with modern gaskets. Due to this, no sealant is required on the head side of the Fel-Pro gasket. Any head fasteners that go into the coolant jacket (ALL of them do on Mopar flathead 6's!) should have a non-hardening PTFE sealant such as ARP or Permatex applied to the threads. Hardened and ground flat washers should be used, and need an ID chamfer if using bolts (chamfer goes up). ARP makes the best ones and are available directly from us. Ensure that the fasteners you are using fully engage the threads in the block. If using ARP studs, the upper threads, and nut/washer faces must be coated with ARP assembly lube. Torquing should be done in three stages following the order on the attached picture. Use of a high quality torque wrench is highly recommended. Torque values for 23" and 25" Mopar flathead 6's are as follows: First stage: 25 ft-lbs Second stage: 45 ft-lbs Third stage torque is fastener dependent: Stock head bolts: 65-70 ft-lbs (with sealant on the threads, oil underhead and on washer faces) Stock studs and nuts: 52-57 ft-lbs (sealant on block threads, oil on top threads and nut/washer faces) ARP studs and nuts: 63 ft-lbs (sealant on block threads, ARP lube on top threads and nut/washer faces) Run the engine to normal operating temperature and allow it to fully cool over-night before retorquing. Repeat this procedure at least three times, or until there is no more appreciable take-up on the fasteners.

I thought I was unique, lol. I have a 2015 535i (son's college car) and a flathead 6 too. I, and my son, do all the maintenance on the BMW, he used to help me with the flatty, till he moved. Taught him the basics on the Plymouth and threw him out of the boat into the water with the BMW.

He spent beaucoup dollars on custom JE pistons and rings. Not sure a torque plate is uncalled for? If it was stock pistons and rings I'd agree with you, but I think this build is a little more intense than a stock one. I bet the Freewheeling Tony Smith has a torque plate. Not sure he loans/rents it out though,

When did Mopar switch to 12vv? Might a 55 be a 12v car and the solenoids and what not need 12v?

That won't work. The drive gear that turns the oil pump and meshes with the cam gear is attached to the oil pump shaft, not the distributor shaft. Since both the oil pump and the fuel pump are driven by the cam, one has to wonder if the cam is moving? Pull the distributor cap and see if the rotor rotates as you crank the engine. If it is then the cam is moving. If not, you got issues. Pull the carb top and fill the bowl with gas, as for priming the oil. You could rig up a garden sprayer as a pressure priming tool and prime the oiling system via one of the oil gallery plugs that run along side the drier's side of the block.

I bought a set of lifting eyes to do this job,

So I am watching Roadkill and they are in Darlington. In the museum, Freiburger points out his favorite exhibit, the winner of the first 500 mile race. A 1950 Plymouth.

I was watching a Gale Banks video about his rear diff cover and they showed it what happens. But I imagine the bubbles should go away after sitting?

Simple resolution, put some UV dye in the radiator. A UV light will tell us if it's coolant.

Since they smell, look and taste different it's be hard to confuse oil for coolant. I have a similar issue at #4, no idea where it is coming from, maybe the oil bath air cleaner.

You can believe that if you want. No way to test it though, Can't open it to get a baseline then put it back on the shelf. As for the tester collection moisture? Really?

One fallacy in your meme, GL1 isn't cheaper. My transmission is 73 years old, I think GL1 has proven itself and I am in no mood to experiment. Net time you have gear crunch drain your ATF and put in gear oil. Bet it goes away, btdt. So much for "better". As for the rest of your meme's claims. Disc brakes are better. Electric fans save fuel and allow more of your of the flathead's meager hp to hit the road. Electronic ignitions are better.

I believe 3% was the red zone on the tester. The fluid we used was Bosch ESI6-32, which exceeds DOT 5.1, $14 a quart, yes it was in quarts, lol.

Just because something is new doesn't make it better. I give you gangster rap as an example, lol. Seriously, we drive 70+ year old cars.