Sniper

I dunno, the heater motor is easily replaced with a 12v, the one I used on my 51 costs a whopping $31, new from RockAuto. Since the insulation was failing on the original 6v motor this was a no brainer. Wiper motor, you can buy a 10A 12v to 6v converter for $22 from Amazon, that takes care of the wiper if you have electric wipers, otherwise not an issue. The only gauge that is voltage sensitive is the fuel gauge and that is only the later, non thermal types. Not sure it applies to the OP's 49 truck or not. But if your fuel sender has more than 1 wire then it's not affected. You can use a runtz resistor or just feed it from the voltage converter powering the wipers. Swap the ammeter wires if going to negative ground. Bulbs That's it. Well you do have to swap in an alternator. Not hard to do, not expensive and no fancy brackets needed. In my case the 51 had 12v battery cables on it when I bought it, still was a 6v system. Lot's of other hackery the OP's mechanic did. If you have a ride that has vacuum wipers, no heater and the thermostatic fuel gauge then all you have to swap are the bulbs. Almost so easy even a caveman could do it, I had a guy stop by with a 51 Chevy that could have been my Plymouth's brother, black exterior, grey interior, coupes. Anyway, he wanted me to convert it to 12v because his headlights were too dim. After inspecting the setup turns out it had 12v headlights in a 6v system, No kidding they were dim, lol. I gave him my old 6v headlights and once swapped out he was happy. Saved him a few dollars. I don't really have a dog in this hunt. But I do not like seeing people bent over at the cash register wanting to do something that isn't that expensive to do.

Assuming the old line is what you want to copy, it may be a mess for all I know, lol.

Yeah, you see that on occasion, the book is wrong, the people that wrote it are long dead, the people that worked on them new are long dead, those of us still farting about with the cars are having to reinvent the wheel, pun intended. lol. Fortunately, the internet lets us all be wrong together. 😜

I used to have a 38, but I will be darned if I remember how the steering was setup. Ok, I found a picture of a 37 Plymouth steering setup, it is not like your manual states.

Does it show that's it's a solid axle and not IFS? Because a 37 is a solid axle car. I think 39 is the return to IFS and that is what you are probably seeing in the manual. While I do not have a 37 FSM, I do have a motors manual, they show the Y setup you mentioned as starting in 39, unfortunately they do not mention the earlier setup at all.

Stainless can rust.. When I was in the Navy they called it cres steel, for corrosion resistant, which it is, but if you actually drive it and whatnot, it'll rust eventually. For a show poodle, yeah it can polish up nice. But for most of us, not really useful. Having spent a lot of time in the Navy polishing various shiny things, I'll pass on self inflicted polishing, lol. Cupro-nickle is easier to use and way easier to form a proper flare on, whereas stainless can crack right at the flare if you don't do it right. When I worked in semiconductor R&D we used a lot of stainless lines, but we did not use flares, we used compression fittings. Those are much more user friendly but not legal on an automotive braking system last time I looked, nor did we have the pressures involved that you would see on a braking system, In any event, it is your choice, just know the issues so you can accept and deal with them is all. I see a lot of how to videos out there for doing stainless brake lines, while the videos look easy, I suspect there are years of experience behind them.

Truer words were never spoken

Stainless steel is more brittle and work hardens easier and it does rust. Not better on many fronts.

They do make a tool to straighten out hard llnes https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Guy-Republic-Tubing-Straightener/dp/B073W197H5

You know, looking at the pics in the link I provided, they don't look like square cut O rings, but if that is what they are then that's what you need. McMaster Carr has a good listing of square cut O rings in Buna N

I would just buy the correct O ring, Buna N should be the proper material. https://www.globaloring.com/blog/how-to-properly-size-an-o-ring-the-first-time-around/ If the cross section falls between two standard thickness, get the larger of the two. But odds are yours just got old and cracked.

You asked how the clearancde was adjusted, if you notice all of Tony's measurements did not include the O ring. If you use the correct o ring then no, it will not affect anything. Too thin, it leaks, too thick then yeah, it affects the clearance because then the stop isn't the metal to metal contact of the cover to the housing, but rather the fat o ring not squishing down enough,

The Freewheeling Tony Smith covers this https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=2311340768887166&set=a.2311333932221183

It has been a very long time since I messed with that era MoPar and I have no manuals handy for them either, so going from memory (from the mid 90's). You should have a joint between the two, similar to a tie rod. That is a wear point and the most likely culprit. https://www.hiltopautoparts.com/product/nors-mopar-drag-link-repair-pkg-all-1936-1937-1938-plymouth-dodge-models/

Odds are most of those 1 star reviews problems are caused by the actual problem (the reviewer) not the pump. I like to note the date of the review, if I see a pattern of complaints after a certain time frame I think maybe there was a change by the manufacturer.

Maybe some meathead put in different bolts in those years? Maybe metric? Do you have a thread pitch gauge?

I went to Tractor Supply this past weekend, for the second time in my life. That is all, carry on ship's work.

Did you check with French Lake Auto and see if they had any?

Might talk to the freewheeling tony smith on facebook, he's real familiar with these rods and such. In fact I believe he has a set of ARP rod bolts for these rods. Here is what he says about the rod bolts

It did not need that added length when the car was new and all was well. Which tells use if you need it now something is wrong. Do not forget the bushings inside the torque shaft yours look worn out. That is probably adding to your adjustment issues.

The pilot bushing is an oilite bushing DO NOT USE SANDPAPER on oilite bushings DO NOT REAM an oilite bushing READ https://oilite.com/best-machining-practices

See now a song comes to mind I see a black wheel and I want to paint it red Apologies to The Rolling Stones

Do not lube an oilite bushing

The pilot bushing typically installs flush to the end of the crank. As for the rest I'm not exactly sure what you're asking for.

Oh sure, just as he finally got it properly broken in you went and got a new one. Gonna take lots of work to break in the new one, lol.