Sniper

So the scarebird calipers are substantially smaller in bore diameter than ECI uses in it's kit. Which means substantially less brake force at the pads for a given foot pressure at the pedal, about 25% less if my math is working today.

I spent 4 years at sea when I was in the Navy and I got used to being able to see the horizon. Being in a place with trees makes me feel crowded in. West Texas is about as wide open as the sea is without being on water.

You can have the blue dots, as for me I will stay in Texas. To misquote Davy Crockett, lol.

Well, finding specs was fun. Looks like they use a 67-72 Mustang 1" bore m/c with the ECI kit, That will probably work ok with the scarebird kit but having a scarebird part number so we can go look at what's in it would be nice. The ECI setup, if you went with both the m/c and disc swap uses 78-81 Camaro calipers, those are a 2.9" bore. What's the scarebird caliper's bore? ECI uses redrilled 78-81 Firebird rear rotors in their disc kit, those are 11.16" in diameter, what's the diameter of the scarebird rotors?

There are companies that can make new lenses using old ones as a pattern, even broken ones that need repair first. Year ago, when I bought my 65 Cuda, it failed inspection because the PO put blue dots in the rear lenses. They looked to be silicon'd on so I popped them off. There was a hole in each lens under the blue dots, which also failed inspection and that red lens repair tape fails too, I asked. Back then no one was reproducing those lenses and an good NOS pair was almost 25% of what I paid for the Cuda. Permatex made a repair kit that was clear epoxy, with a packet of red dye and amber dye. I also had some tools/molds in it to fix the lens. Worked good, still there 25 years later and you still can't tell. Unfortunately, I can't find it anymore.

Something's wrong somewhere. I live in west Texas, it's regularly over 100 out here and I have yet to see this problem. How much ethanol is there in your gas?

With a torque wrench. Not sure I appreciate the snotty attitude you have going on.

I don't build a car thinking about how someone else would like or want it to be. But I only buy cars for me, not in the car selling business. So I worry about what I like.

Do it every time I need to pop the balancer bolt loose. Works like a charm. Every engine I have ever worked on turns the same direction. If the balancer turns clockwise while you are looking at it then this will work.

the easiest way to remove the balancer bolt is to use the starter.

I meant the vehicle and the medical thing

Good luck, with both

Thanks, I blast about everywhere I go. I blame it on the fact that for the first three years of my driving life I rode a motorcycle and your best defense against other drivers is the bike's acceleration. Don't be where they are heading and they can't hit you. These days I don't usually speed but I don't fart about getting up to speed either.

Went and looked at my 51 Plymouth's head, It has a big P on it, so the D may very well mean Dodge. Casting number is not the same either.

Thanks, I might measure out the diameter of the paper gasket in my rebuild kit and then go look at oil filters. I figure the sealing ring on an oil filter might work too.

I used some weed wacker line to pull the new wire thru the column. Just tape the two together well.

That looks like it. When I got my 51 this past September one of the things I had to do was rewire the entire car. Long story, but suffice it to say it had to be done. Anyway the one wire I did not replace was the horn wire. When I took the Cambridge for it's annual inspection so I could register it the final thing the inspector needed to do was test drove it. Guess what shorted out on the test drive? the horn wire. Those 6 volt trumpets are real loud when you are running 12 volts thru them. As for where they go on your P18 I don't know. here's a pic I found though

Not on a tight budget so much as adverse to overpaying for things. Right now I don't need any of the stuff I mentioned to just drive. But I am a hot rodder by nature so I want to do some things. From that perspective the Cambridge has three areas that need addressed. Stopping, handling and going, in that order. However, reality says this is probably the last batch of Edgy heads for along time, if ever. Those Thickstun intakes sold out the last batch and I should have bought one then, but was waiting on the heads. After all i could always get a set of Offy's. Any idea if he's planning to do another run on those intakes? They are indeed sweet looking and I suspect out perform the Offy's. Stopping will be covered with the handling part as well since I'll be redoing the kingpins then so it's all coming apart. I have the Explorer disc upgrade on this site book marked and have downloaded the templates. I have a bonus coming, might get the parts for that swap then. Just need to find a machine shop that can make the brackets without wanting a fortune doing so. Or I may just make them myself as I have the tools needed.

When/if I get around to it I'll put up pics and a write up on my website and link it over here. Though right now I am hanging on to my spare cash for an Edgy head and a Thickstun dual 1bbl intake. I know, seems disjointed coilovers with a hopped up flatty, lol. I prefer not to be another bellybutton I guess. Right now the coil over idea is in the "will it seem to work" stage of getting measurements and looking at what's available. I think I have the basic package sorted out. QA1 coilovers, which exact ones depends on me measuring the stock travel, QA1 springs with spring rate pretty much decided, 650 lbs/in, but which specific one I need remains to been determined by the stock upper spring mount diameter and shape. Of course all of this is may be moot if I need to drill the upper shock mount hole and it turns out that's right where the upper control arm pivot sits. and even there I have an idea on how to deal with that.

Sorry, $300 for stock type coils is about $200 too much and shipping is $50 which is about triple what it ought to be. No thanks. If I were to keep the stock type look in the front then I'd go with 91 Aerostar AC Delco brand coil springs for $39.79 and $15.99 shipping from Rock Auto. That's almost the same price as Eaton wants just for shipping. Not real sure how Eaton's price is competitive. In the coil over setup I am looking as new QA1 springs are $75 a pair and $14.57 for shipping from Speedway, so if I decide my initial selection is wrong I can buy a new set fairly painlessly. Again, way cheaper than Eaton, especially if you decide your original selection was wrong. QA1 has an outstanding reputation. https://www.qa1.net/about/quality and they make their stuff here in the States. But if Eaton works for you great. It doesn't for me though.

Not interested in Eaton's overpriced stuff, I can get any number of coil springs pairs from QA1 at whatever rate I want for well under $100 MSRP, less at Speedway. For not much more than Eaton wants for OE type springs I can get the springs. better shocks and adjustable ride height in a tidy coil over package. If I want to toss a few more dollars at it I can get the adjustable shocks too, single or double adjustable depending on how fancy I want to get. Compared to the "traditional" route of Eaton springs, shock relocation and new parts store type shocks the price for the base coilover conversion is a wash, the technology and adjustability isn't though.

The stock upper spring pocket still gets used. Just need to drill a hole for the upper shock mount. See the link for picture of the kit. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mustang-II-Bolt-On-Coil-Over-Kit-w-QA1-Adjustable-Shocks,35903.html

Thinking of putting the coilover setup where the stock coil now sits. It looks like the QA1 setup for the Mustang II is compact enough to fit and I can get stiff enough spring for it too. But I have to measure. If need be I could relocate the lower coil pocket below the control arm for a few more inches of room.

The part number I listed is a normal type head bolt design, see pic. The washers I listed are parallel ground and hardened, specifically for head bolt use. Remember to put the chamfer on the inside hole of the washer against the head of the bolt and a drop of oil on the washer to minimize false torque readings.

Pioneer PG-362-25 head bolts, 25 pack, and Pioneer head bolt washers S-1018, 34 count, will work. $23 at Summit Racing, plus shipping and taxes.