Sniper

I plan to go with late model Crown Vic 17" steelies and moon discs. The Crown Vic rims because I plan to use Crown Vic 12" discs/calipers in the front and I know the rims will clear.

Which brings up a question I have regarding fuel tanks. Mine does not vent. I bought a new vented cap and it still does not vent. On warm days you can heard it oil can when the fuel expands. Once I had gas shoot out when I opened the cap. Is this normal? If not should I add a vent?

AC 588 Airtex 73201 Spectre Premium SP1296MP - available new

pop rivets, lol, what genius decided that was a good choice. Pull the sender, drill out the pop rivets, use solid rivets. Of course you will need to use the right tool to set the solid rivets. If you already have an air chisel then Ajax Tools sells the rivet set that uses your air chisel to set the rivets. You can find them on Amazon as well as the rivets. Now I do have a secret weapon, my wife was an aircraft mechanic in the Navy and she knows all about rivets.

A larger diameter crankshaft pulley will drive the water pump and alternator/generator faster. Assuming you don't change those pullets too.

NP, I ran into this issue some years ago, pre internet, when the machine shop used anti seize on some ARP rod bolts when installing them. had to make a phone call back then to ARP to see what they suggested, their suggestion was to carefully clean off all the anti seize and use their specified lube at their specified torque values. I suspect that was the safe answer and with rod bolts that was probably the best way to go.

For my 51 Plymouth, Flaming River says it uses the same adapter as my 65 Cuda, which tells me that the Cuda's wheel should fit the 51's steering shaft. It also says it will fit your 49. By implication the Grant adapter for my 65 Cuda should also fit both our Plymouths. Now will it cover all the gaps and work with the horn button? that is the questions nor have I actually tried it.

Everything has a torque specification. Bolts stretch, sort of like a spring, to clamp the load. Not enough stretch and they loosen, too much and they can break. Attached is the PDF from Anitsieze regarding new torque specifications. torque_specifications.pdf

On the end of the head towards the firewall there is a pipe plug, that is used to check TDC. I just drop a skinny screwdriver in there after that pipe pluf plug is removed and roll the engine over by hand till it tops out, I note where the crank is then keep rolling it till it starts to drop and not the position of the crank, the middle of those two points movement is TDC. The service manual shows the details

having put over 100k miles on that ride myself I would disagree with the poor handling comment. Poor handling is my 51 Plymouth.

One final swap, maybe not too unusual. I used to own an 87 Diplomat I bought from the Travis County sheriff, old detective car. I swapped out the 318/auto for a warmed up 360 and a 4 speed. The 318 made it's way into my 65 Cuda, replacing the tired 273 that was in it.

The carb on my 51 Plymouth has that choke arm and fast idle linkage

I think I have been a trained electronics technician since 1984 and have a firm grasp on the theory. Said theory also states that twice the voltage equals half the current for a given load. the issue is that the motor moves so fast it beats the linkage against the stops.

Well, if you consider it beating itself to death on 12v to be no problem, then yes. Otherwise no. My existing 6v wiper motor is not happy being fed 12v, hence my question. Tried a voltage reducer resistor, STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS RU100 and it wasn't the fix either.

If you've found a 12v motor that interchanges with the wiper system please share that part number.

The flow thru the bypass filter is controlled by the bypass valve in the block. It is NOT a full flow oil filter so the diameter of the stock feed lines are sufficient. Too much flow thru that filter will starve the engine of pressure. Fortunately, the oiling system incorporates a valve to regulate the bypass oil filter operation.

I will go out on a limb and say a resistor is probably the last choice for fixing the 6v wiper motor on 12v issue but if I was going to go that route I think I would just use an ignition ballast resistor. Ideally a 12v motor in the 6v's place is the solution. I have a DC to DC converter that is supposed to be capable of handling the current the wiper draws, I haven't tested it yet. If that doesn't do the trick I have a few other ideas. some even realistic.

When I converted to 12V I found a bolt in 12V heater blower motor Link to my swap with some added info http://www.im-creator.com/free/yourolddad/the-snipers-nest/blower-motor Now the question is what to do about the wipers? A resistor isn't cutting it and I haven't found a bolt in replacement or anyone that converts a 6V wiper motor to 12V. I might have to go with a motor controller if all else fails. Any leads?

Yes they do

More than just the tips are replaced when you get new points. the spring loses tension with use, the rubbing block wears. Yes all that can be replaced but not sure you'd save much if you farmed that out. Anyway, what you are looking for is called an Electrical Contact Rivet. Good luck finding someone to sell 2 and not 10,000 to you.

The only way to take the "bulb end of the temp line out of the back of the temp gauge" is to permanent break it . It's a mechanical gauge and that end is not designed to come apart once assembled, you have to unscrew the other end out of the engine and fish it thru the firewall if you want to take the gauge out of the vehicle. Good luck not destroying the rubber grommet in the firewall though.

Update on running hot. My 51 never ran hot, till today. In fact it ran cold, never got much above 150 degrees. I figured it was either the wrong thermostat in there, no thermostat or one that was stuck open. I was wrong. There was a thermostat in it, a Delco one rated for 180 degrees. It was installed upside down. Near as I could figure the water pressure was sufficient to unseat the valve and kept the engine running too cool. The valve was definitely seated when I pulled it. I swear the mechanic that maintained this car before me was a world class hack. Everything he touched was poorly and incorrectly done. While I had the coolant drained to change the thermostat I took advantage of it to pull the radiator so I could clean off the timing marks on the pulley and check my timing. It was too tight to do a good job otherwise. Timing was set to 30 degrees advanced, at idle speed of 550 rpm. Wow. So now I am running at about 200 degrees, on an 80 degree day. This was with a lot of low speed driving around a parking lot, teaching my son to drive. In a 51 Cambridge with no power anything, three on the tree. He did pretty well though I think I did pick out the smell of clutch.

Another update, was under the hood today and it's back. While it's not out of the question I could have splash oil out of the oil bath air cleaner again it's in exactly the same spot and the same plug is coated in a very similar manner. Which tells me head gasket. C'est la vie. I have an Edgy head coming so this might be reason enough to redo the engine or a spare engine.

The manufacturer of the belts provided pretty good instructions for the upper mount so I followed them. https://www.wescoperformance.com/3-point-seat-belts-shoulder-mt-door.html

Anyone else put seat belts in their ride? Just finished up putting a pair in the front, nothing in the back yet.