Sniper

You need to measure the voltage at the battery with the engine running. Also, observe the ammeter needle when you first start it, it should swing towards the + side. I also suggest getting a service manual, it won't have everything but with that and the folks here you should be covered. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/plymouth,1952,cranbrook,3.6l+218cid+l6,1349872,literature,repair+manual,10335

The snout of that hub looks like it has one gnarly crack in it?

I am thinking on pulling the engine out of my 51 for a reseal as well. The service manual is surprisingly empty on how to do that. I do plan to clean the engine compartment while I have it out. It's not bad, but still.

He has a ton of other videos, some of them on how to make 3D panels.

3/16 works out to a #10. https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/machine-screws/machine-screw-diameter.aspx Either 10-32 or 10-24 as the two most common ones.

True, I don't run the non-ethanol fuel. I just run Shell regular unleaded with "up to 10% ethanol". I wonder if stepping down a level on the thermostat rating would help?

Did you mean to say you need 5/16" not 3/16"?

I can get unleaded without ethanol around here too. I don't run it though, is that what you are running? I think my thermostat is a 160 one as my car never gets much above that. What's your thermostat?

I just watched some videos on this, it was very interesting. Here's the link

nice

In this case track refers to the distance between the tires, not how it goes down the road.

Doesn't work like that at all. Go read up on thermodynamics and heat transfer. But to sum up, Newton's law of cooling states that the rate of heat loss of a body is directly proportional to the difference in the temperatures between the body and its surroundings. Time is immaterial, faster water flow promotes more turbulence that allows the coolant to be as fully exposed to the heat source (engine) and the heat exchanger (radiator) as is reasonable within the constraints of the system.

Only time I ever tried to solder a radiator is was a leaky seam, between the top tank and the core, I ended up chasing solder around the seam trying to seal it. Ended up closing the gap with some epoxy. It was a brass radiator, if yours is brass it can be soldered, clean it well first. Solder doesn't stick to gunk and have flux handy.

I just retorqued my head, pretty sure the spec was 70 ft/lbs.

You'll pinch the hose and damage it. Not something you want to do in a system that can generate 1000+psi. Unless you are already planning on a new hose.

Do not use a vice grip. Go to the parts store and buy an inverted flare plug. If you use vice grips you will crush the tube and have to replace the line.

you'd have to cap the line going to the rear otherwise the fluid would just follow the path of least resistance out the hole. Loss of rear brakes doesn't normally cause a spin, just reduced braking. Locking up of the rear brakes can cause a spin though.

If you are running coolant the exhaust will smell sweet if it's a leaky head gasket causing the water in the exhaust, that would be the smell of coolant burning. Non catalytic converter cars will show water out the pipe until the entire exhaust system heats up. Cool sections of the exhaust system condenses the water out of the exhaust. As a side note, modern exhaust systems usually have small drain holes in the piping to drain and collected water out, to limit water collecting there and rusting it out. Here's an example of one in a muffler

Each stroke of the pedal on displaces a set amount much fluid from the master cylinder. the farther from the drums the shoes are the more fluid they need to move the shoes into contact with. If the master cylinder runs out of volume before the shoes hit the drums you have to pump again. remember, until all the shoes hit virtually no pressure is generated in the braking system.

Pretty slick, might have to do something similar

Note on those spongy brakes, I had that issue when I first got my 51. Turns out that while the PO had the brakes all redone with new brakes whomever was the mechanic did not do the adjustments. The service manual has the procedure, though it calls for a special tool to set the major adjustment. I don't have that tool but what you are doing is setting the shoe width so that it is just slightly less than the inside drum diameter. You can get it there by measuring with a large set of calipers or failing that with a machinist's ruler to get it close, then it's drum on and drum off as you fine tune the setting. Once it just drags back off just enough for it to free spin. Now you can reassemble the drums and do the minor adjustment. DO NOT forget to torque the shoe lower pivot bolt and the axle flange nut, both of which in my case were not torqued. Once I did that to all four drums I went from needing two pumps of the pedal for any braking action to about 2 inches of pedal travel for solid braking. If you go through the service manual's troubleshooting guide for spongy brakes misadjusted shoes is listed as a possible cause. Also, since these brakes are not self adjusting it would be wise to do the minor adjustment every oil change. Once the minor no longer works it's probably time to inspect or replace the shoes.

Just watched your bearing video and I think you may have an issue with that new input shaft bearing The open side should be towards the inside of the trans so the oil can splash lube it. Your snap ring will put the shielded side on the inside if I am see it right.

Your comment about redoing the master cylinder brought back a painful memory. When I was in the Navy I had a 40 Chrysler Royal that needed a master cylinder rebuild. I was attempting to loosen the fittings on the brake lines with a line wrench when the wrench snapped and I punched the block with everything I had. No I wasn't using a cheater pipe, just my bare hands. Unfortunately, I found out the hard way that though they looked like quality tools, they were cheaply named. My hand swelled up like a ham, for a while there I thought I broke it.

A paper air filter isn't an issue for me. Just haven't got around to it yet as I haven't found one that doesn't look out of place in my otherwise stock engine compartment. But I plan to hop up the 6 anyway, Edgy head, dual 1bbl intake, split exhaust so by then a "stock" looking air filter will look out of place. Though I did see one I like for this look. Need two by then and the matching radiator cap.

Ok, sorry for the delay. Did a compression check on the 218. The FSM says to the test at "room termerature (70 degrees). Never saw that before. Had to wait for a 70 degree day give or take,. Specifications are 105 psi with no more than a 10 psi variation between cylinders. Per FSM specifications with the throttle and choke held open, all plugs pulled and a charger on the battery to minimize that as an issue. cylinder reading 1 50psi 2 50 psi 3 48psi 4 40psi 5 40psi 6 44psi Hmm, that seems wrong. So I did it like l always have done it, fully warmed up. In this case coolant at 180 degrees and I got the following 1 50psi 2 52psi 3 52psi 4 50psi 5 51psi 6 46psi Still seems off. My compression checker is probably pushing 30 years old at this point and initially I could get no reading at all. So it's suspect. In any case the variation didn't exceed 10% and I will get a new compression checker. Before I decide I have an issue I will redo the checks. I also need to pull the thermostat because the only way I could get it to 180 degrees was to block about 2/3's of the radiator core, it;s never run that warm before. Oil looks good no "chocolate milkshake" look to it, smells like oil. I didn't squirt any oil into the cylinders to see if ring seating might be an issue. I might do that if the new compression checker reads similarly. I also forgot to close the throttle before I put it all back together and started it. Oops.