Sniper

It's pretty much how you start any carb equipped car. But, yes the operator's manual does say that, which I read and I use. There are reproduction operator's manuals for several of our cars, I got one an put it in the glovebox once I read it.

Years ago, heck in the 80's I guess, Halibrand would do that kind of stuff. Had them make a set of custom made torsion bars for a bud's 75 Coronet and they'd do swaybars. Now days it appears whomever is running Halibrand is coasting on the name.

Well it ought to fit generally speaking, since your Plymouth should have had a 23" flattie in it. However I am not well versed enough in the finer points of the evolution of the 23" flathead to know for sure what maybe different. If you have the original engine then it can be useful when swapping.

The casting date of 31 Jul 1959 supports it being a 1960 model engine.

Years ago I ran into a similar issue. This was on a stock brake setup replacing a stock application hose. The supplied washers ended up being too thin and we were unable to tighten the banjo bolt (it bottoms out) enough to properly crush the sealing washer and seal. Thicker sealing washers did the trick. But back then Pep Boys had a selection in the store you could choose from. Might take the old one to NAPA and see if they can set you up.

What, exactly, about Wilwood doesn't qualify? In the racing/hotrodding/performance world no one is more well known than Wilwood. If you were hoping to find an OEM adjustable proportion valve from the likes of Ford/GM/Chrysler, etc, no such animal. I know Chrysler had a valve mechanically connected to the rear suspension of it's minivans to compensate for load, but that would be a trick to adapt adn I don;t recall if it was adjustable or just had a loaded/unloaded setting. BTW, pretty sure the knob is aluminum.

Here's the link to Wilwood's offerings. https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderValves Show me where your no name brand has similar data available for the end user. Also note that the price is very reasonable too. Made in USA, too.

I don't know about take away alter is more like it. As far as I am concerned the stock ride is too wallowy. But I prefer cars that handle instead of ones that float but I will admit my 51 soaks up the bumps that modern cars don't. It's just that the list she has in a turn bothers me.

On mine, I floor it and let up, then hold the throttle open maybe a quarter and crank it over. Starts up just fine for me.

OEMs use steel because it is cheaper and lasts long enough to get past the warranty period. I used to be a sailor and I've seen exactly what Sam is talking about.

1. No, it is only required when you change the polarity of the ground. You car went from 6v positive ground to 12v negative ground, so the points need to be hooked to the coil - terminal. 2. I know nothing about the trans setup, sorry. But it may be wise to thin k about the change in both voltage and polarity's effect on that system. Others more knowledgeable will hopefully chime in.

I typically like to use the combination valve from the brake donor. On my musclecar era Mopars I usually put the 111.75" discs and 11" drums with the combination valve from an M body (Diplomat) cop car. Works real good. My 51 will probably end up with 4 wheel discs and if I need a proportioning valve I will probably go with one of Wilwood's offerings.

Are these it? https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/7575/Chevrolet_Hub_Cap_Retaining_Clip.html

If you are using the type plugs shown in your link (domed disc essentially), then yes you need to hit it in the center to properly seat them. If it's a cup type plug then no. I prefer brass myself.

RockAuto sells it as well, Standard SL2 is the part number, do a search on it.

nevermind, wrong thermostat

I've seen some use a pressurized container of oil connected to the oil gauge port to prime the engine. Something like a garden sprayer with a fitting on the end of the hose instead of the sprayer wand would do. Similar to this

A couple of pics of my mock up. Still need to cut the phenolic adapters to mate the Webers to the manifold. Not my injectors don;t point straight down like a regular TBI, not sure it'll make a difference. We shall see and now that I know about it I'll look for it. Thanks.

I have a Thickstun dual 1bbl intake, probably the best balanced of the ones I have seen. I have two 42mm Weber IDA based throttle bodies, running 1 34lb/hr injector in each throttle body. Based on an estimated 150hp max once the Edgy head goes on and the hot rod cam goes in, the injectors are probably a bit undersized for 150 hp but I realistically expect about 125hp, split the difference between stock HP and max HP seen with this head/cam combo. If it turns out I need more I can up the fuel pressure or buy bigger injectors. I don't plan to implement constant barometric compensation at this time, I don't plan to drive it anywhere there is a significant elevation change any time soon, that's at least a 6 hour drive for me. Once it's running good I might add it in later, I don't want too many issues going on all at once. I will put in the LC2 wideband O2 sensor to provide feedback to the ECU when the dual exhaust is being built, going to put it in the merge collector. Not real worried about the siamesed port issue either, my setup is essentially electronically adjustable carbs and the stock carb setup doesn't care about siamesed ports why would TBI? Port injection I can understand the issue, but I would probably adjust injector flow ratings to compensate, essentially a bigger injector in the siamesed ports with a smaller injector for the single ports or possibly a dual fuel delivery setup that will allow you to adjust fuel pressure for the siamesed ports separate from the single ports. If you are doing batch fire it probably doesn't even matter. Using EGT sensors on each exhaust port would tell the tale there or a Colortune setup

In the downloads there are a couple of manuals on the BB Attached are the instructions that came in my Walker rebuild kit, shows the check balls that did match my BB. Walker BB instructions.pdf

Oddly enough I have gathered most of the parts to EFI my 218. I am going with dual TBI rather than port injection. Going to use Microsquirt to control things, the ECU is the one major part still enroute. I plan to start the mock up this week. I'll take pictures, maybe we can collaborate some on this.

They don't put methanol in gasoline, they put ethanol. Methanol is substantially more corrosive than ethanol. Modern materials can handle ethanol just fine. Unless your running an NOS pump or something I am pretty sure the new stuff has the ethanol resistant materials in use. You can always ask the manufacturer if in doubt.

I can see it both ways too. I plan to replace my original wheels with 17's at some point and I'd rather help someone out than scrap them. But they are only 15's and it's not going to happen in the near future, but when it does I'll make sure to posted it in the classifieds.

It's a commercial for Holiday Inn Express, where it is implied that by staying there you become some sort if expert on whatever subject is at hand. It's kinda of a running gag these days to say "I don't know anything about that, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express, so..." For the record, I did stay at a Holiday In Express Wednesday night, so I know what I am talking about, lol.

It appears great minds think alike ?