Sniper

Now we begin to understand why some retro fit universal electric window mechanisms into our older stuff.

No first hand knowledge, but I know where there is some. Wilcap makes a bunch of adapters to fit various transmissions of both the manual and automatic variety to your DeSoto. Your choice of manufacturers too. Got a Ford/GM/Chrysler trans lying around? Wilcap probably has an adapter to make it fit. http://www.wilcap.com/Hemi.html#Hemi Adapters

I was in 83-93, electronics tech. So I understand the electric side of things. The mechanical I learned mostly from HS and not being able to afford a reliable car most of the time I was in.

I had a set of metal ramps you drive up on to work under the car. Used them for years, till one day I drove my 64 Chrysler 300 up on them, last time of many times, and it flattened them. Fortunately, I was not under the car when the ramps let go. If I had been well you can imagine. Since then, my ramps are of solid material, no bent and welded metals one for me. I agree that retail grade stuff is just cheaply made anymore and even the commercial grade stuff is getting there too. So I take my time to hunt down old made in USA stuff when I can.

I wish I had taken machine shop in HS, but between wood shop, auto shop and electrical shop I more than maxed out my trades classes for a person on the college track. So other than learning how to turn round stock in the Navy I have no machinist experience. Really shows when I have to fab something.

Eastwood makes a pretty decent kit too https://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html

they make a Pneumatic Valve Guide Driver that uses an air hammer to remove and install the guides. about $27 if you already have the hammer and compressor. If you don't have an air hammer they cost about $27 too. You will most likely need a reamer too, $50. So, $100 in tools to do the guides. Then there is the valve job, more tools there. Listen to the misfires while watching number one cylinder intake lifter. What does you spark plug wire routing look like?

I drive mine just about every day, rain or shine. I don't drive it on the day or two we have snow out here, but I don't generally drive anything then, I just stay home. I thought I was going to have to replace my hot water heater today, but it turned out to be a leaky hose up top. Took her to Lowe's today. Hadn't planned to go anywhere but it is what it is.

" It compounds. " that is the truest statement in this hobby.

the toeboard is removable for filling the master cylinder. The toe board is the part of the floor where your feet rest.

Thanks, I've got a Thickstun for my 218 and have been turning it over in my head what to do about an air cleaner. I may go this route.

A stump

Very nice, tell me about that air cleaner.

Everything thing you want to know about thread nomenclature and more https://www.brighthubengineering.com/machine-design/50877-a-guide-to-thread-standards-how-to-interpret-american-thread-designation/

Not a problem, I found it looking for oillite bushings to replace the felt washers in my wiper linkage.

Good luck

Rich, I don't know that anyone was giving you grief, I surely was not.

Keep up the good work and stay healthy

Mopar has used this pilot bushing till they went to a bearing pressed into the crank centering in the 90's. Unfortunately that change doesn't retrofit to our stuff. That said, NAPA used to sell an undersized pilot bushing for cranks that were in front of an automatic and not finish drilled for a pilot bushing. Unfortunately, the dimensions were 915" O.D. .750" I.D. and .875" long, which is a non standard size. In general I check Aircraft Spruce for stuff like oilite bushings. But they don't list anything near the size you need. While I am not a machinist I understand that oilite bushings require specific work to prevent them from no longer being self lubricating. Odds are that since the work you need to do is external to the bushing it won't matter here. Oilite does have some decent tech info online Anyway, oilite AA838-07 seems to be what you need. https://oilite.com/products?view=partdetails&partid=1454&uom=Imperial&back=PS Oilite has a pretty decent parts selector. https://oilite.com/Our-Products

I have stumps of mine own I can donate to your collection. I can even donate the spare rim and tire I used to pull them.

Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it, hmm might be a lesson of all in these times.

I used many a wire twister like that in the Navy. A couple years ago I bought a Harbor Freight version, my recommendation? Don't, it's poorly machined and doesn't want to twist. I recently bought this for my future plans off Ebay.

Residual valves were phased out at some point when they started making rear wheel cylinders with internal expanders. The original purpose of the residual valve was to keep a bit of pressure on the wheel cylinder cups to prevent them from leaking and draining out your M/C over time. Some use the 2lb residual valve as a band aid to prevent spongy brakes on a disc equipped car when the M/C is below the floor. If your M/C is above the calipers you don't need them, if it's below you might. If your wheel cylinder's cups are all rubber you need the 10lb valve in the rear line. If the cups have a metal expansion ring molded in you probably don't, but having the valve won't hurt.

Thanks, buyers guide stops at 48 for Plymouth applications, but goes to 54 for Dodge applications, odd.

Got a part number? Because what NAPA sold me is the first pic I posted. No spacer, no donut. Thanks.