Sniper

The parts book would answer that definitively. But if there are differences, it won't tell what they are. I can't help, I don't have a parts book that goes back that far. But you could buy one

Ok, I order this on 01 August 24. Got an email today, 24 Aug 24, saying that the part has been received. I am not in a hurry, but if any uses the link in the first post to order it,like I did, it'll take a while.

I've done that with a nylon abrasive wheel, finest grit I could find. But it was on a 318, lol.

Ok, it really depends on what year we are talking about. Sounds to me like your gauge is the older thermostatic type And it appears your aftermarket sender is not the proper type for your gauge. But wait, we already covered this? You have the wrong sending unit. The one you need does not use resistance, per se. It uses current flow thru the gauge to make it deflect properly. Later ones use voltage levels to deflect the needle. You either need to replace your gauge with one that will work with your sender or replace your sender with one that will work with your gauge. I recommend going with a mopar specific vendor such as Bernbaum or even MoParPro if there is no other source. I think the part number you need is 591146, not cheap. https://hiltopautoparts.com/product/nos-mopar-fuel-tank-sending-unit-1939-41-dodge-fargo-plymouth-trucks/ https://www.moparmall.com/MoPar-PN-591146-Fuel-Gauge-Sending-Unit-p/803-086.htm https://www.ebay.com/itm/176497837693

Yeah, I had issues with that pin too. So I took the uprights off, went to the machine shop and had them rebuild the king pin setup and drill/tap the holes. I had bought the correct sized bit online and the first hole I tried to drill just resized the bit, lol. But I have a setup that has a rebuild kit available. YMMV.

Another forum I was on had this discussion recently. Vintage Air has a write up on it (here's the link Semmerling). https://vintageair.com/tech-topic-is-an-electric-compressor-a-good-option-for-my-hot-rod Summation, pass for now.

Really dude? Crude attacks? Coming from you, yes. From me just pointing out stuff. I don't quote mystery experts as backup to my claims. In fact, when I do cite someone else I CITE them, I give the links, I show the data, I name the names. When I see a claim of mystery expert information, I know it for what it is, BS. Finally, mr know it all. I do not have, nor have I ever had a set of Asche duals. So I can't complete a project I never started. But if I did have as set of Asche Duals that were setup by a recognized expert (no mystery expert here) on these engines I sure as heck wouldn't be bad mouthing the carbs he setup for me unless I had a legit, documented issue and I would have reached out to him first for a resolution. But you do you and I'll do me.

I took apart a new pump, addressed a few minor issues. http://www.yourolddad.com/cooling-system

Dude, whatever. All you have to do is hang the proper weight on that bell crank you have circled in red and you will ALWAYS have the proper return pressure with no concerns about spring wear or adjustment. But overly complicated isn't my thing.

The return spring is not on my carburetor. It's part of the linkage right where the pivot is on the head. So there's no tension per se on the throttle shaft

Since it's heat treated it sounds like welding is contraindicated. But I am not a welder

Not really sure I buy any of the claims in this post But if throttle return pressure is so critical to proper idle why are you even using Springs? why not design a counterweight that will hold the proper tension at idle and never ever wear out?

Back in my sailor days we were taught how to deal with a metals fire. Kick it over the side. There really is no way to put out a metals fire, lithium or magnesium. It will burn till there is nothing left to burn and if we didn;t kick the chopper over the side, if it caught fire, it's burn a hole through the bottom of the ship.

The problem with continuing on in the same threat is people might see the title and say oh I already put my two cents in and not realize you had other questions. Plus it makes a lot easier for people looking for help if you separate out the topic

The Jeep swaybar may have used is a hair of 1" in diameter. DORMAN 927302 is the one I got. Figure the odds of finding a 55-56 Imperial bar in the yard. https://p15-d24.com/topic/34079-jeep-sway-bar-on-my-p15/

Rock Auto has universal fit hitches, the give frame width specs https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/body+&+lamp+assembly,towing+-+trailer,trailer+hitch,1212

I will say that I have seen a poor ground cable cause sticking throttle issues in other applications. Ground will seek whatever path they can find and if that happens to be the follow linkage it'll use it. What I would do is put the car in neutral set the parking brake shot the wheels start the engine up and then work the throttle from under the hood and see if it sticks. If it does disconnect the throttle linkage from the carb and work the auto Again by hand and see if it sticks that at least narrow down where the problem area is

I have a set of 17x7 rims on the back of my 51, Dorman 939-137, less than $60 new. Not sure on the back spacing, but it's more than 3.5". Bore is correct for hub centricity. No issues with the drum rivets hitting the wheel. Running 255/50R17 tires, zero issues with fitment, no spacers. But, PA is right about having to jack the body high to get enough clearance to install them.

I dunno, my time is worth something to me, especially when it's 100+ degrees out. To be honest this is one of those deals that'll either cost nothing because the mechanic is interested in doing the job or cost a lot because he isn't, lol. For example, If Los wanted a hand on his truck, I'd do it for free because of the comradery. Some unknown character that wanted the same? Probably quote a price that'll either run him off, or really make it worth my time to do it. But I don't do that for a living so I don't need to work or the word of mouth. One related thing, might even be helpful. When I changed the exhaust out on the ex's Canyon I had a trick to find leaks. Here's a video on my SIL using that trick, I was filming.

Been awhile since you been to a shop? $100 might cover one hour, if you are lucky. Closer to half an hour in a lot of places. https://www.motor.com/2023/05/a-look-at-shop-labor-rates-across-the-country/ Mind you that's over a year old.

I dunno, when I went to title and register my 64 300 in Arizona, it was a California car, they had to check the VIN. The numbers stamped on the body never matched the VIN back then, the number stamped on the body was referred to as the SO number in Chrysler literature. It's the same on my 65 Cuda. So the inspector was like thinking we had a problem. That was fun to deal with.

Lat time I did a B&T rebuild I got a kit from Andy Bernbaum, zero issues. But that was back in the 80's and it was NOS. Not sure what he has now.

That's because you need to rejet when you go from one carb (designed to feed the engine) to two carbs (both designed to feed the engine by themselves). Synchronizing the carbs has nothing to do with the AF ratio, just equalizing airflow through the carbs. Well, one carb, properly jetted, will work better than two carbs way off on the jetting. Going back to a single B&B would have probably made the same difference. Now the question really is, where do you get jets and other such tuning parts for a B&B.

Technically, yes. Legally they are different. VIN's didn't come into being till 1954, but as Dan said, they weren't standardized till 1981.

In Texas that year would have used the engine serial number on the title. There was no VIN, per se, back in those days. You had a body serial number and you had an engine serial number and they were not the same. Which number was used was up to the state to decide.