Sniper

I got mine from Rock Auto

Not sure where you read that, but there is nothing wetted by gasoline in our pumps that needs lubricated. Since you haven't said what failed in the pump no one can make a cogent argument one way or the other. Not sure why you keep harping on MMO though. I used it all the time in older engines to clean them up internally. Never had a problem and whomever these detractors are you mention, well everything out there someone will complain about, rightly or not.

I was in East Texas, at my daughter's place, for the past weekend. Drove home, to west Texas, Sunday. When I punched up the Google maps route it warned me that I might be impacted during my trip by Beryl. It hadn't even hit the Texas coast yet, so it was BS. Anyway, I didn't even get rain out here, just a bit cooler than normal. Daughter got some rain and wind later on.

Not gonna talk about it, lol. I think I wiped a rod bearing on the original 218. Which means I need to get off my duff on the 230 I have been farting about with,

I have that intake but I am using it for dual throttle body fuel injection and both shafts on my throttle body are linked together using my setup rather than the supplied linkage. so I can't really help with the Dual carburetor setup.

Nice touch

At some point arcing shoes became unnecessary. I don't recall ever doing that. Might be a fall out of the self energizing function later brakes had?

The braid is for abrasion resistance. If you are going to just run a plain rubber hose instead I would source one locally. The OP though, may not have that option being where he is.

The only thing metric on that water pump are the bolts holding the rear cover on. I did a review on that pump http://www.yourolddad.com/cooling-system

See I guess I'm not much of a straight line kind of guy. I like cars that can go around curves. I used to have a 96 Mustang with the triangulated four link setup and that rear end was Wiggly as heck. I did not like it. I ended up having to put a panhard rod in that. I guess the nice thing about that particular car was that there were pre-made kits and I didn't have to do a lot of math.

It's in the download section I'm pretty sure. I am not at home so I can't look it up for you I'm working off my phone right now

Well vacuum advance is not applied during starting nor is it applied at idle. And typically when you're doing all your adjustments, that is at idle so no big effect. What it does is help keep the spark plugs clean get you better gas mileage cruising down the highway and it does lower emissions as well although that's not why they used it originally.

He said pulley you're talking about the hub. I wonder what the op actually needs because all I've ever had to do was take the four bolts out and the pulley came right off the Hub

I like to use the vinegar trick myself. It seems to do a good job without being overly aggressive. Plus it's biodegradable.

That rear panhard Rod still makes me nervous. The shorter the panhard rod the more likely it is to move the axle side to side as it goes up and down.

I use Regular old 10w30 detergent oil In my 51, Sae 10 is the wrong viscosity oil. If you are going to use a straight weight oil use 30

I really don't know the new freon systems well enough to say. I know with the old R12 you would just put in Freon until the sight glass quit bubbling and you were good. R134 is more sensitive than R12 was. But I have no idea about this new stuff. Worst case scenario the garage tells you cost a bunch of money and you decide never mind.

I am not familiar with any Ram newer than the 05 I mentioned. But the high pressure line is the smaller diameter one. Blend air door kit, with installation video. What a real pain. https://www.blenddoorusa.com/products/4th-gen-ram-09-with-single-zone-climate-control-complete-kit

I am a licensed mobile AC tech. That said, I have never messed with the newest stuff. I only got my license so I could buy R12 for my 65 Cuda. Recently, as in weekend before last, fixed the AC in a friend Toyota, R134 system. A couple of issues with it, the fresh air vent under the hood was almost all the way blocked with leaves and pine needles. The cabin air filter was probably original to the car and well pluggeed. The system was maybe 6 oz low on freon. Works fine now. I suggest looking at those items as well as the blend air door. I know there was/is an issue with Mopar blend air doors breaking and that is what controls the temperature. Not sure when, or if, they ever sorted that out. Had to fix that on on the old lady's 05 Ram. Another thing to check, does the compressor turn on when you request AC? If so you have freon in the system, might be low though. One tube going in the cab should get cold, the other one hot. If that is happening then it's probably a blend air door issue. However, without gauges on the system and pressure readings, need ambient temperature too, it's a guessing game.

I would suggest having a speedi sleeve on hand. SKF 99156 should be the right one.

Last time I pulled the drums on my 51 the driver side came off fairly easy with the puller. The passenger side however I had to leave sit overnight with the puller on it. I would go out periodically in bang it a little tighter next morning I went out there started banging it again and it popped free finally. I had had both drums off in the recent past as well. That didn't seem to help

I hear that. Seems you ruled out fuel though.

Minimal load on the coil. Minimal load on the engine. Minimal heat generated. Typically, how a coil starts failing is a break in one of the windings, a microfracture. As the coil gets hotter the gap starts to open and the electricity will jump that gap, eroding the ends of the wires further increasing the gap. At some point the combination of the heat increasing the gap and the action of the spark jumping that gap creates a separation of the ends large enough to stop the coil from working. The coil cools, the gap shrinks and it works again, till it gets hot enough to not work. Finally, the issue becomes bad enough that the coil won't work at all, regardless of temperature. Next time it dies check for spark immediately,

I think they got bought out some while back and production got cheapened out after the purchase. You can buy a similar kit for a 488 Dodge from Rockauto. No idea s to the quality of that kit though. WVE 1A4219 https://wellsve.com/parts-search/?partNumber=1A4219

Why in the heck would Mopar do that? lol Seems like something Ford would do.