Jump to content

Sniper

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    6,301

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    141

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Sniper

  1. Sniper
  2. Sniper
    You using eating vinegar or cleaning vinegar? I ask, because I recently found out that cleaning vinegar is stronger, who knew? lol
  3. Sniper
    Ain't that the truth, I end up going down lot's of rabbit holes "learning". lol
  4. Sniper
    I did cover this exact issue in my write of the swap I did.
  5. Sniper
    I have several issues with that plate design. Some aftermarket intakes, Offy, are porous (freeze plugs leak) and will leak coolant into the intake unless you seal it up properly. I hae a Thickstun intake, it doesn't have that issue. Primarily though, the stock exhaust heat works to heat the intake up immediately, then backs off once the engine comes up to temp. The plate works opposite that. I don't use either in most applications, but I don't life where that might be a concern.
  6. Sniper
    18 in/hg is kinda low, especially since you are at sea level. A bit of tuning might be in order. Play with the timing a bit, tweak the mixture screw a bit. I get about 20-21 at 1600 feet above sea level. Once you dial that in your car will really run nice.
  7. Sniper
    Make sure you lube it.
  8. Sniper
    I am not sure what scale you were using, but in the most commonly used on, here in the US anyway, it's inches of mercury, in/hg. just under 30 is a perfect vacuum. Tell use what scale you used? vacuum-pressure-unit-conversions-chart-from-ism.pdf
  9. Sniper
    I bought mine from Wesco. 3-point Aviation buckles built-in retractor
  10. Sniper
    That sounds like it would be perfect and I would guess they would know.
  11. Sniper
    The motor in the pump isn't grounded to the case, so you can wire it to work with a positive or negative ground, it don't care. Now the voltage drop will affect the output. I went to Carter's website to look up the specs, pretty lame, imo. No datasheet showing output vs voltage, heck they don't even tell you what pressure is expected, lol. https://carterengineered.com/electric-fuel-pump-p90091
  12. Sniper
    Try a new battery in the meter If that doesn't clear it up, tell us what the readings are with the switch in AC.
  13. Sniper
    And it's $10 cheaper at RockAuto but if you throw in the shipping it's probably a wash LOL unless you're doing a RockAuto order anyway
  14. Sniper
    It's probably too late now and it doesn't look like it's really necessary but they do sell prefabricated transmission humps. Typically they're for race cars, but that don't mean it won't work elsewhere. You can usually find them at Jegs or Summit places like that. Just something to keep in mind. Your work looks really good keep on.
  15. Sniper
    Yeah that's the problem with most of our stuff they're wore out sometimes news the best way to go. I do have a question about the preset though preset for what? Might not hurt to consider fine-tuning those adjustments
  16. Sniper
    The engine number will tell you for sure. Because a 49 Dodge should have come with a 230 but that don't mean it's still got its original engine either.
  17. Sniper
    That's for a bypass, not a full time, oil filter. The OP already has a bypass setup.
  18. Sniper
    On the 23" 6's the output of the oil pump has a passage in the block, two holes are drill and tapped in that passage, a plug is inserted between the two holes. The filter is plumbed by using the newly made hole closest to the pump as the supply to the filter housing and the return from the filter housing is plumbed into the second newly made hole. Me? I'd prefer to make a new cover for the pump and have the supply hole there. Then the return hole would be in the block and the output of the pump to the block is plugged.
  19. Sniper
    SSR's generally use a MOSFET as the switch and they do incur a voltage drop. The one you showed is designed to switch AC, not sure if that aggravated the issue though. Found the data sheet for it, output voltage drop is specified at 1.6V. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13015
  20. Sniper
    I had a half inch of toe out and in my case there was not enough adjustment for that. YMMV. But your tierod setup is different than mine, I believe.
  21. Sniper
    One thing to know about that kit, with the plate sandwiched where it is your tie rods will be closer together and cause major toe out. I ended up getting a different, shorter, tie rod end sleeve to correct this. Anyway, here's the write up I did on my swap, 51 Cambridge. May, or may not, be useful with your swap.
  22. Sniper
    Way to persevere and thanks for telling us the problem
  23. Sniper
    You were sold the wrong sending unit. Tank too if it uses a 6 hole sender. What you got is something that will fit and may work, for the most part, as long as you don't need a working stock fuel gauge. You could probably put an aftermarket fuel gauge on the bottom of the dash in a single gauge mount. It would work, if you get a gauge compatible with that six hole sending unit. If you are still a 6v system though, you might find it an issue to get a gauge that will work on 6v positive ground.
  24. Sniper
    The parts book would answer that definitively. But if there are differences, it won't tell what they are. I can't help, I don't have a parts book that goes back that far. But you could buy one
  25. Sniper
    Ok, I order this on 01 August 24. Got an email today, 24 Aug 24, saying that the part has been received. I am not in a hurry, but if any uses the link in the first post to order it,like I did, it'll take a while.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use