Sniper

I dunno, there is a reason Mopar redesigned that setup.

I was going to comment on an inch rule made in Germany, never saw such a thing, lol.

OSHA has no jurisdiction at home. Therefore, it is compliant, lol.

Some of us live alone.

Congrats

http://www.yourolddad.com/blower-motor

Been starting mine for 4 years on 12V If you are running 12V to the coil without going thru a ballast resistor then that is why it is so hot.

Oh they most definitely go bad. Coils get how, that is why there is oil inside them, for cooling. How hot is too hot, I dunno. But did you even check to see if you had spark after is stopped running? That would tell you if you had an ignition problem. Did you pull the air cleaner and see if the accelerator pump shot a squirt of gas in the carb when you cycled the throttle? That would tell you if your carb had gas in the bowl.

Rockauto sells premade battery cables for use, if you want something more factory made looking. https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/electrical,battery,battery+cable,2500

If number six is on the compression stroke and you are at TDC then put the number six plug wire in the cap tower that is lined up with the rotor. DO NOT get hung up on where the rotor is supposed to be pointing, it's obvious someone did not reinstall the oil pump properly. At this point you can either roll with the way it is or try to R&R the oil pump to sort out your rotor position.

I'll have to ask my son, he was a witness, lol.

I dunno, seems someone I know was having similar issues, then noticed his parking brake was still on Dunno who that could have been though.

That would be even more useful if it said what the term meant. Cause you now, my age you say you're gonna slap me someone's going home to mommy crying, lol.

I converted my 51 Plymouth to 12v - ground. Not real hard to do. Had to rewire it anyway because the PO's mechanic did a real hack job putting in a new aftermarket and universal (fits nothing) wiring harness in it. He kept it 6v + ground, but used a 12v harness, so all the wires, including the battery cables, were undersized. Lol You will have to change all the bulbs there are 12v equivalents for them all. The starter doesn't care. My electric wipers needed reducing to keep them from beating themselves to death, lol. I had to use a 12V starter solenoid, added a 12v coil and a ballast resistor. Heater blower motor was replaced with a 12v one. Probably a few other things but my 51 doesn't have a lot of OE electrical stuff. Here's what I did for an alternator http://www.yourolddad.com/12-volt-conversion Some of the wiring issues http://www.yourolddad.com/rewire-it Blower motor change http://www.yourolddad.com/blower-motor None of those links are comprehensive, just stuff I ran into. If you have questions, ask away. Why I converted? Because I could, lol. No seriously, I wanted good headlights, nothing 6v, including LED ones, qualify, imo. I am running GE Nighthawk 12V, 7" round, LED headlights. Those are good. I also want a thumping stereo, yet to do. I also want AC, no 6v option I know of there.

Did the latrine yesterday. Maybe, if I am a good boy and I pass inspection I can play with cars this weekend, lol. I do have a few new items for the 51 to review.

Battery cables are too small, lol. I see that all the time. Nice start to a good project. Step one, a good cleaning, lol. Speaking of which, I need to clean the kitchen.

So, what is the difference that makes that added 6 hp?

You would be unique I have to retract that statement. Seems there is a one piece hub and pulley setup. trucks used it, at least. So entirely possible. See? Even an old dog can learn a new thing,

There should be a data plate on the starter with a part number you can use to source a good starter and/or parts for you existing starter.

I run a set of DORMAN 939137 on my 51, but they are 17x7 steelies that are for 2005-2011 RWD mopar cars. Fit the back just fine, the fronts require a bit of a spacer.

AHHHHHHH! 🤪

Ah, resurrecting an engine from a long slumber. I would pull the plugs, number your plug wires first, and inspect them. Plenty of spark plug reading charts out there to help you decipher what's going on. Depending on how long it has slept you may even see lead deposits on them, lol. Example Chart This will give you an idea what is going on. If it passes muster here put some oil down the cylinders and see if you can turn the engine over by hand, using the fan as your lever. This will tell you how tight it is and yes you should be able to do that if nothing serious is going on. You may have to tighten up the belt though. If that all passes muster, put the plugs and wires back in. Take the distributor cap off and inspect the inside of the distributor. Here's a decent thread talking about what it looks like in there, or should look like. Here's a link to an article on this from our download section If that passes muster then it's time to look at the fuel delivery system. If it has old gas in there, drain it out. There is a drain plug in the bottom of the tank. Take the sending unit out and inspect the tank for rust. New tanks can be had for most. Odds are the carb needs taken apart, cleaned and rebuilt not too tough a job. Here's a thread about that, In the downloads section here there is a Carter factory book, if you have a B&B carb as well as one for the Stromberg. Inspect the rubber fuel lines for failure. Give hte wiring a real good look, not uncommon for the insulation to be falling off, we fon;t want any electrical fires. Once you sort thru all this then, maybe, you will be ready to start it up

Depends on what failed. Can you shoot a pic of that for us?

Hey, if you know that guy, mention to him that both Autozone and RockAuto have incomplete listings for this part. I would hate to see it go out of production due to low demand caused by this.

This is where an interchange manual would come in handy and it would tell you if the pumps will work.