Sniper

Well vacuum advance is not applied during starting nor is it applied at idle. And typically when you're doing all your adjustments, that is at idle so no big effect. What it does is help keep the spark plugs clean get you better gas mileage cruising down the highway and it does lower emissions as well although that's not why they used it originally.

He said pulley you're talking about the hub. I wonder what the op actually needs because all I've ever had to do was take the four bolts out and the pulley came right off the Hub

I like to use the vinegar trick myself. It seems to do a good job without being overly aggressive. Plus it's biodegradable.

That rear panhard Rod still makes me nervous. The shorter the panhard rod the more likely it is to move the axle side to side as it goes up and down.

I use Regular old 10w30 detergent oil In my 51, Sae 10 is the wrong viscosity oil. If you are going to use a straight weight oil use 30

I really don't know the new freon systems well enough to say. I know with the old R12 you would just put in Freon until the sight glass quit bubbling and you were good. R134 is more sensitive than R12 was. But I have no idea about this new stuff. Worst case scenario the garage tells you cost a bunch of money and you decide never mind.

I am not familiar with any Ram newer than the 05 I mentioned. But the high pressure line is the smaller diameter one. Blend air door kit, with installation video. What a real pain. https://www.blenddoorusa.com/products/4th-gen-ram-09-with-single-zone-climate-control-complete-kit

I am a licensed mobile AC tech. That said, I have never messed with the newest stuff. I only got my license so I could buy R12 for my 65 Cuda. Recently, as in weekend before last, fixed the AC in a friend Toyota, R134 system. A couple of issues with it, the fresh air vent under the hood was almost all the way blocked with leaves and pine needles. The cabin air filter was probably original to the car and well pluggeed. The system was maybe 6 oz low on freon. Works fine now. I suggest looking at those items as well as the blend air door. I know there was/is an issue with Mopar blend air doors breaking and that is what controls the temperature. Not sure when, or if, they ever sorted that out. Had to fix that on on the old lady's 05 Ram. Another thing to check, does the compressor turn on when you request AC? If so you have freon in the system, might be low though. One tube going in the cab should get cold, the other one hot. If that is happening then it's probably a blend air door issue. However, without gauges on the system and pressure readings, need ambient temperature too, it's a guessing game.

I would suggest having a speedi sleeve on hand. SKF 99156 should be the right one.

Last time I pulled the drums on my 51 the driver side came off fairly easy with the puller. The passenger side however I had to leave sit overnight with the puller on it. I would go out periodically in bang it a little tighter next morning I went out there started banging it again and it popped free finally. I had had both drums off in the recent past as well. That didn't seem to help

I hear that. Seems you ruled out fuel though.

Minimal load on the coil. Minimal load on the engine. Minimal heat generated. Typically, how a coil starts failing is a break in one of the windings, a microfracture. As the coil gets hotter the gap starts to open and the electricity will jump that gap, eroding the ends of the wires further increasing the gap. At some point the combination of the heat increasing the gap and the action of the spark jumping that gap creates a separation of the ends large enough to stop the coil from working. The coil cools, the gap shrinks and it works again, till it gets hot enough to not work. Finally, the issue becomes bad enough that the coil won't work at all, regardless of temperature. Next time it dies check for spark immediately,

I think they got bought out some while back and production got cheapened out after the purchase. You can buy a similar kit for a 488 Dodge from Rockauto. No idea s to the quality of that kit though. WVE 1A4219 https://wellsve.com/parts-search/?partNumber=1A4219

Why in the heck would Mopar do that? lol Seems like something Ford would do.

I never said anything about going with Pertronix, I wouldn't recommend them. The stuff I recommended is OEM stuff, made by the same people you mentioned. Without the issue of vanishing sources (for now anyway) nor wear. It essentially mimics the Mopar electronic ignition system of the 70's, pre lean burn. Yes, it needs 12v though.

Studs? I am confused, should they be bolts not studs?

Those aren't being made anymore and when they run out of NOS you are SOL.

I have the stuff needed to convert my original distributor to electronic using factory parts. Just need to do it https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/mopar-flathead-6-distributor-upgrade-48-desoto.653565/

Good point here, the original cap was just open, replacement caps do have the button issue mentioned. Ran into an issue where the cap I had on the car when I bought it would not vent properly causing he gas tank to oil can. I thought I had a write up on it, anyway here's a thread with details on the vent issue.

I have a BMW, truer words were never written, lol.

That is always the question. Unfortunately, those people are not around to ask anymore. So we get to play archeologist, lol. But unlike the archaeologists that try to tell us how the pyramids were built, most of us have some knowledge of the matter at hand. Looking at what they replaced the original setup with I am going to go with both better and cheaper. Better in the sense that it is less complex and simpler in design adn cheaper in that there are less parts involved to do the same thing. A win/win.

If you have bubbles in the fuel line odds are you have some pinholes in a rubber line and the mechanical pump is sucking air. Which means with an electric pump odds are you'll have fuel leaks soon.

Yesterday, the son and I were running around town gathering up stuff to fix the stripped oil pan drain plug on his ride. We took the Plymouth. Started out running fine, about three quarters of the way to our last stop it started running funky. No power, died at idle, barely made enough juice to to 25 mph. Funky noises, not like anything I have ever heard before. Anyway, we finish our errands and manage to get home. Not running hot, normal, for it, oil pressure. I heard a noise or two that sort of made me think rod knock was possible. I got home and parked it. Today I am thinking about this very thread, I am hoping the crappy modern day points rubbing block issue is the problem, haven't looked as I am afraid it isn't. No I did not leave the parking brake on, lol. Well, I pulled the cap, nothing really jumped out without taking it more apart than I want to right now, going to spend the time with my son.

I dunno, there is a reason Mopar redesigned that setup.

I was going to comment on an inch rule made in Germany, never saw such a thing, lol.