Sniper

I don't know about that hurricane six. I've seen a picture of it it looks large by huge. Not to mention the fact that the price tag is probably even bigger. Ok, I went a hunting for the Hurricane crate motor costs. Appears it's vaporware. It was announced the end of 2022, but nothing now. I even went to Direct Connection's website and looked at the crate motor offerings. It is not there.

As some might remember, I think the flatty in my 51 spun a rod bearing. So I have a couple of options. Rebuild the original engine. No idea how much work has been done in the past, it might already be bored out as much as it can be. Rebuild the 230 I bought awhile back. In both of the above cases I can use all the flatty hot rod parts I bought. Or, I found a running donor for a V8 swap. 400 B motor, 727 trans. AC, Cruise, PB etc. Of course that opens a can of whoop ---, well you get it. Probably shred the stock axle so a swap is needed there. Probably gonna need power steering (rack and pinion swap time), etc. I can most likely sell the flatty hot rod parts for more than the donor would cost me. Part out the donor for what I can get. Going the flatty route would be quicker, but less "exciting" behind the wheel. However, a hopped up fuel injected flatty is definitely more unique than a V8 swap. Hmm, why does One Cab's Family come to mind, lol.

Hmm, you came to a group of technological neanderthals for tech advice. 🙃 I mean, my laptop is from 2011 and still runs Win7.

Threaded standoffs might work https://www.mcmaster.com/91075A030/ Stainless https://www.mcmaster.com/93620A030/ zinc plated steel https://www.mcmaster.com/93505A033 aluminum https://www.mcmaster.com/92700A030/ zinc plated brass

Technically speaking, if there are no dedicated fuses then the wiring becomes the fuse. Not a good thing,

It would be easy to make a 6 or 12 volt version. Just make the 6v version and add a dropping resistor to run 12v. You could build it in the housing and use a hidden switch to select whichever voltage setting you need.

In the installation instructions is says 12V negative ground only

Yesterday's job was a 10 hour round trip, I could have driven to Denver in that time, lol.

H6006 C1 are 6v Halogens

Sae 30 is available in detergent and non-detergent varieties with the non detergent variety most commonly found for compressor duty, DO NOT use that one. make sure it is for engine use. There is no "weight" in oil designation the W refers to the winter or cold viscosity rating. https://knowhow.napaonline.com/what-does-the-w-mean-in-oil/ Both of these points I discussed with my son last oil change we did. We were discussing the differences in oil requirement between his BMW and my 51, while at Walmart looking for the proper oil for his ride.

I have seen many 6v cars using battery cables appropriate to a 12v car, too small. Add in some crusty connections and it's problematic. Rockauto sells new battery cables of the right size if you want to go with new, yours look to be 6v cables though, I usually put a thin coat of antisieze on them. It's a bypass filter, they work, after a fashion. Some have modified the oiling system to use a full time filter like on modern cars. Common setup back in that era. Probably needs adjusting, the manual should help. The brakes need regular adjusting, not knowing how long it's been since then might be a good idea to do that. The puller is readily available and not too expensive. Some have been able to loosen the axle nut a couple thread, put the cotter pin back in and drive it around the block a few times to pop them loose. I have never had 100% success with that. They do that, the road draft tube is a source. If you are use to rack and pinion steering, most modern cars, it will always feel loose. Keith, on this site, has a pretty good write up on what he did to rebuild his, a video too I believe, Not likely to find a reman though, the steering column shaft is one piece all the way thru the box. I'd change the trans and diff fluid, so I start from a known point. Probably flush the brake system too, I have a post here detailing a power bleeder I got from Motive that makes it a snap, Nice looking ride. Those cars are a lot more maintenance intensive than newer ones. You will have dozens and dozens of grease fittings to lubricate. I bought a cordless grease gun just for that. The site has a lot of info, the search function isn't the best though. Poke around, read up, ask away.

I remember when I got my first car with halogen headlights, wow!

That's because they think they know better without really knowing what' going on. If they ran the suggested coil, or at least verified the coil they want to run meets spec they would be ok. But no, they know better, lol. I can be a bit, lol, pendantic sometimes but really if the people that built it say to do something, I am doing that unless I have a real good and researched reason why I am doing different.

While I won't disagree that no matter how idiot proof one tries to make something a better idiot will come along and mess it up, but installing a Pertronix is almost idiot proof.

I dunno, later mopar transmissions that I have dealt with do not have a gasket between the trans and bell housing, Not sure why they put on in there. Also, they usually have a welch plug to seal the end of the counter shaft. Not sure if one could be fitted here.

Heck, if you wander far enough to meet up with Los, let me know, I am only about an hour and a half south of him, I'll head up that way. Although today i get to drive to Sierra Blanca, got a job to do for the BP.

Pretty sure it's a drain for any leakage around the input shaft retainer..

https://www.moparmontana.com/tech-faq.html

If the valve was not seating fully and that was your problem a compression check would show no compression in that cylinder. A valve that is not opening enough because of a worn low would show less compression than the other five cylinders but it would still show some sort of compression.

Oilite bushings are not copper, they are an oil impregnated sintered bronze bushing. They are not hard to source, at least here in the states. https://oilite.com/catalog-listing-oilite-sleeves Looks like they do have a distributor in Germany,

The ONLY load that goes thru the ammeter is battery charging and the horn in the stock configuration. Nothing else. Your headlights and stereo, assuming you didn't wire them direct to the battery, should never go thru the ammeter with the engine running. Where did you wire your new stuff? Also, remember that stuff draws half the amps with twice the voltage.

I'd pull the hub and take it tot eh trailer shop. You are probably going to want to clean them up and re-grease once you get a new cap anyway

You know, you can buy oiling cups from McMaster-Carr. Not even close to cheap though, lol. $30.00 for one 😯

Properly maintained, the stock drums work pretty well. Well enough that the stock style tires are the limiting issue, not the brakes. The key is properly maintained, those brakes need regular adjustment and that adjustment is semi-involved. This topic has been routinely discussed and there is lot's of info in the search function. Me? I have front discs and modified the major adjusters in the rear to simplify the adjustments there.

That is not a regulator it is more likely your horn relay