Sniper

When I was dealing with stuck valves I learned that no penetrating oil worked worth a darn. Some old timer told me to try brake fluid, it worked. Might help here?

I need to add, Rockauto has them in stock, do a part number search.

Interesting, I DDG'd that number, Autozone says they have it in stock. However, they say it only fits a 50 and 51 Windsor with a 251. So I dug out the factory parts book and it tells me that all 6 cylinders from 36-54 use the same cam and crank sprocket and timing chain. OE part numbers are 601 760, 601 757 and 1075001. I then got to SA Gear website, downloaded the catalog and presto that SA 73111 comes up crossing to the OE numbers I found. Thanks Dartgame.

Thanks for the source, Ken. Not sure how I ended up there other than to say my nom de plume might be Savoir-Faire.

I would suggest using Teflon tape on the threads of those screws that way they don't rust weld themselves to the block and snap off in the future.

You know I use the Milwaukee stuff at work myself. The M12 stuff though. However a lot of the construction guys I see are out there running the Milwaukee M18 stuff and those guys live by their tools.

I bought my son one of Harbor Freight's earthquake air power impacts. That thing has what it takes to get the job done. If you have an air compressor you might consider going that route. The problem with batteries is that they're not cheap they don't last all that long to be honest and you kind of stuck to that brand and when they quit making it then what? I still have my very first impact gun, airpowered, and I bought it in 1988 from JC Whitney.

When it starts looking like the Leaning Tower of Pisa you probably gone too high

Heck just see if you got a spark when it happens. Maybe observe the color of it if it's orange it's weak if it's blue it's probably strong enough

I mean it's essentially a hydraulic pump so I wonder if a hydraulic shop can handle it? I can't imagine there's much in a way special seals and gaskets and such?

Anyone consider a reduced head flange bolt?

That's a mechanic I would not use. Anyone suggesting a 160 thermostat is someone that doesn't know what they are doing. Sounds like something electrical is heating up and failing on you, had a coil do that with somewhat similar issues.

That trans jack has a coupon for it right now. Hope the link works https://go.harborfreight.com/email/2024/05/e182731-61232/?uid=ea74137e7859c2aefa9f22b4018fd5b36da75c8bab83d2893ae5a41b64023220&infy=35957368385&bxid=35957368385&mi_u=35957368385&mi_ecmp=2024_06_02_wk2224_Free_Gift_0_60_ENGAGED

I picked up a lifting eye that screws in where a head bolt would go. It's rated for 9000 lbs https://www.williams-industrial.com/us_en/shoulder-eye-bolt---7-16--jhweb-24t.html

Other than the label and some different paint, looks the same to me. Anyway, I offer no opinions on it other than to point out the flat head will only bolt up one way, in my experience.

Isn't that what the OP asked about?

Here's my write up on the one I have v

What Joe listed are not swivel sockets. That is a universal joint and a regular socket. This is a swivel socket

Yes, but you could spin the nut on with a finger till it got close then use the wrench. Not to mention the stud will hold the starter up,

Those spring looking extensions don't work on tight bolts. My suggestion, when I was teaching my son things, is that you take the hard bolt out first, that way you aren't fighting with the part trying to fall off on you when you're dealing with the hard bolt. Not too sure that applies here though. Take the floor pan out.

If my starter ever needs replaced I will have my son do it. He needs the character, lol.

Any reason you couldn't use a stud there?

Speaking of oil filters... Helped my son change the oil in his BMW. This is the second change we have done since we bought it. The last oil change we put in a Wix oil filter. When I pulled it out of the canister yesterday the end cap came off in my hand. Wix had been my go to for a very long time, but they got bought out a couple years ago by Mann and Hummel, a German company that supposedly had a good rep. Not so sure about that now. We won't go into the ham fist goon of a son that I have who stripped the drain plug in his aluminum oil pan. Other than to say the apple does not fall far from the tree. He about threw up when I told him a new pan, from BMW, was $800. Yes, we used a torque wrench, it was set to 18 ft/lbs. I had him watch the how to replace your oil pan video on that. Between the tools they say you need and the parts as well, just doing it ourselves, he was looking at over $1k to fix his boo-boo. I introduced him to the tap, drill bit and slightly larger drain plug, under $50. He learned a lot yesterday. Lol

Thanks to you, now and in the past, I do know what that term means, lol

They are, standard SL-2 is what I use. Here's the MSDS pst-superlube-2-sds.pdf