Sam Buchanan

You haven't told us what plugs you are running but if one of the recommended plugs you are fine. It'll take a lot more than 20 kilometers to get a valid plug reading.

I bought a driver door glass from this vendor, was very pleased. https://www.sandersreproglass.com/

There are some mis-understandings here. 1) Installing an alternator is a sign of defeat? Really? My car has a new aftermarket fuel tank, should I feel defeated because I decided not to try to make the old, corroded, clogged tank work? What about radial tires......a sign of defeat? 2) The entire car doesn't have to be rewired to install an alternator. Matter of fact, wiring is eliminated and simplified.....hey....it's just ONE wire. 3) There are splendid reasons for using a 6v alternator. No need to change light bulbs and the starter works as it should. If there are electric accessories such as wipers they still work fine. Anyway, just wanted to address this items to avoid confusion in case someone is considering an 6v alternator. The things work splendidly and the car functions as before.....only better.

That is why you see the 30a fuse in the fat wire coming from the 6v alternator in my P15 (located where the regulator used to be), the fuse will go before smoke starts coming out of wires.

Beautiful ride and welcome to the community! It is easy to determine if you have the original engine. If so the block number and frame number will match. The frame number is on the frame arch inside of the left rear wheel. Some careful sanding may be necessary to determine the frame number if the frame is very corroded. Both numbers should begin with P15.

I readily accept that for some enthusiasts collecting (hoarding?) parts is an enjoyable facet of the hobby, and that is ok. It may also create some degree of confidence knowing a spare is readily at hand. My point was that I haven't found it necessary to stock spares to keep my P15 on the road since I returned it to good service condition.

I don't stock parts for my P15, just get what I need when/if they are needed. It isn't a daily driver even though I drive it often. What parts would most folks have kept around back in the day? Probably not much...... These cars are so well designed that once you get one in good mechanical condition it doesn't take much to keep it in service.

Now we're thinking. Kinda like the guide pins we use for installing the transmission and oil pan.

Think in terms of the shunt inside the ammeter as being a dead short (it actually has a small amount of resistance). Connecting the ammeter across the battery terminals would be similar to connecting a wire between the terminals....the smoke escapes as the shunt blows like a fuse element. But put any load (bulb, motor, coil, etc) in the circuit and the smoke stays in the wires.

Looks like something is restricting water flow, maybe the radiator or water distribution tube? Or a bad water pump?

Hope 'bout a new voltmeter for $7? https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/multimeters-testers/7-function-digital-multimeter-63759.html I have four or five of this things scattered all around so one is always handy. Even gave some away when they were free with a Habba Fright coupon.

Since you have no loads connected an ammeter is of no value to you. A voltmeter is much more useful because it shows not only the state of charge of the battery but also the condition of the charging system via how much the battery voltage is increased with the engine running. If you see 7.3-7.5v with the engine running your charging system is working properly. Matter of fact, some of us consider the voltmeter to be more useful in the car than an ammeter......but that is a topic for a different discussion.

Yes, that is an outstanding looking car! The fact it is appreciated by a young driver just enhances its value. You haven't given us any details on what seems to be wrong with the clutch. Yes, a complete clutch kit can be installed but that might not be necessary. Is the clutch slipping under acceleration? Does it chatter when engaged? Does it make growling or whining noise when disengaged at a stop? All these diagnostics can point toward either a bad disc, improper adjustment, scored flywheel, scored or defective pressure plate, or defective release bearing, a leaking rear main seal....or a combination of factors. You may have already had an experienced person diagnose the clutch for you. I purchased a complete kit for my '48 Plymouth (basically the same car you have) from an online vendor and had the flywheel surfaced locally. I suspect I could have gotten by fine with just a new clutch disc and the release bearing in the kit was junk. I ended up reinstalling the old bearing. So some more info might help us guide you in a good direction. At least the poor abused clutch helped you learn to drive the 'three-on-a-tree'. Enjoy your new ride! ?

Ok...just trying to make sure the clutch disc is indeed completely gone instead of the clutch just being out of adjustment.

What do you mean by “killed the clutch”?

Welcome to the group! Your car doesn't resemble my '48 P15 much but I appreciate the fabrication skills and problem solving required to mod it. Nice ride!

That one will work, there aren’t any alternators specifically for our cars. Pulley alignment is achieved with the adjustable bracket. Wiring is a non-event, just one wire that connects to the BAT terminal on your old regulator. The armature and field wires aren’t used. Someone posted about how to lightly mod the alternator so it fits on the original bracket, think it involved grinding a slot into the mounting boss.

You can specify pulley width when you order the alternator.

This topic and link has been posted many times, even in your previous threads on this subject. ? https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

Mufflers?! You don't need no stinkin' mufflers....let those flatties bark, the car show crowd will love it. ?

Turn on the switch and see if you have 6v at the BAT terminal.

https://p15-d24.com/topic/50622-installing-a-spin-on-bypass-oil-filter-photos/#comments

Having bright headlights and a battery that always stays topped up with no charging system maintenance is REALLY cool. ?

I used windshield adhesive from the local parts store when I replaced the driver side glass in my P15. The job can be a little tedious but well within the capabilities of someone with reasonable shop skills. I was very pleased with the glass I purchased from Bob's Classic Auto Glass.

If you live in an area of low humidity best practice is use a grounding strap connecting the tank to the drain container. This can prevent a catastrophic static charge boom boom.....