Sam Buchanan

Who knows....just connect it so it works.

No problem at all with using both gauges at the same time. The voltmeter just needs one wire connected to the car's battery voltage and one wire for ground. It doesn't care if an ammeter is being used. I connected mine to the switched terminal of the ignition switch. In your diagram it could be either red wire at the ignition switch.

Potential problems could be solved by getting rid of the ammeter. Leave it in the panel if wanted for aesthetics but don't connect it. Add a voltmeter, much, much safer and useful. Here is the one in my P15 located under the dash, semi-hidden by the steering column. I installed it while trouble-shooting the generator and regulator before I got fed up with them and tossed them for the one-wire alternator. The voltmeter is so useful I just left it in place. I still have the ammeter because it works but won't hesitate to retire it if it gives any problems....would only require putting both wires on the same post. This is showing the battery being charged at 7.2v at idle (verified with digital multimeter) with the headlights on. Alternators rock.

I hope you have better luck with a local shop than I did. A local shop could cut the glass but it was going to cost much more than the vendor I used and linked above. I added pencil grind to the laminated glass which the local shop didn't offer. Maybe your shops will have better service. Total cost with shipping from Sanders was $76 for the driver door glass.

Ken, it is totally stock per the Mopar engineers. Here is a scan from the service manual. But regardless of how it works....mine is busted. ?

No, in this application the device retards timing under conditions of low manifold vacuum such as heavy throttle. At idle or high vacuum conditions the device is inactive and timing is dependent on static timing and the centrifugal advance. It's only purpose is to retard timing under heavy load to prevent detonation but I suspect our modern fuels make it kinda irrelevant. I run 12* static timing which gets max timing with centrifugal advance where it should be. Since the engine doesn't ping under load it is happy with this "high" initial setting even though there is no vacuum retard.

This page has the one-wire alternator you want: https://www.ebay.com/str/howardent/12-Volt-Negative-Ground/_i.html?store_cat=20493249016 My one-wire 6v alternator charges like a champ at idle. It is truly "one-wire", no exciter lead needed........just one wire going to the battery. Still almost positive your alternator is externally regulated per the notes I see about it.

For the past couple of years I've been chasing a slight random miss under light throttle between 55-60 mph. It seems applying some choke clears up the miss so I've surmised the engine is running a little lean at light throttle (high manifold vacuum). I removed the carb, checked for play in the throttle shaft and re-installed the carb paying close attention to good sealing on all the base gaskets. This did not clear up the issue. Just to cover some bases I removed the distributor so I could closely inspect the points and the little lead that often chaffs and shorts against the distributor body. To check the vacuum unit I pulled some vacuum and heard air being pulled through the diaphragm. Ah Ha! Since the advance (it actually retards timing, not sure why it's called an advance....) is plumbed directly into the carb base it seems logical the mixture might be leaned at light throttle opening (high vacuum). The car runs great without a functional vacuum unit so I removed the line on the carb, plugged the port and test drove. I think we have found the culprit. I use an initial timing of 10-12* BTDC so maybe that is compensating for the lack of the vacuum advance. But the engine doesn't ping under heavy load. So I'm left with deciding whether to get a rebuilt diaphragm or just run with centrifugal advance only. Any one have a source for a vacuum unit that you are pleased with? Anyone have experience with leaving the vacuum unit on the shelf?

I will bet you a worn-out alternator belt that you will need a regulator with this alternator. But the VR166 regulator from a 1975 Ford LTD should work and is less than $30. Be sure you give it a good inspection, these cheap rebuilds are notorious for having bad bearings.

You haven't told us what plugs you are running but if one of the recommended plugs you are fine. It'll take a lot more than 20 kilometers to get a valid plug reading.

I bought a driver door glass from this vendor, was very pleased. https://www.sandersreproglass.com/

There are some mis-understandings here. 1) Installing an alternator is a sign of defeat? Really? My car has a new aftermarket fuel tank, should I feel defeated because I decided not to try to make the old, corroded, clogged tank work? What about radial tires......a sign of defeat? 2) The entire car doesn't have to be rewired to install an alternator. Matter of fact, wiring is eliminated and simplified.....hey....it's just ONE wire. 3) There are splendid reasons for using a 6v alternator. No need to change light bulbs and the starter works as it should. If there are electric accessories such as wipers they still work fine. Anyway, just wanted to address this items to avoid confusion in case someone is considering an 6v alternator. The things work splendidly and the car functions as before.....only better.

That is why you see the 30a fuse in the fat wire coming from the 6v alternator in my P15 (located where the regulator used to be), the fuse will go before smoke starts coming out of wires.

Beautiful ride and welcome to the community! It is easy to determine if you have the original engine. If so the block number and frame number will match. The frame number is on the frame arch inside of the left rear wheel. Some careful sanding may be necessary to determine the frame number if the frame is very corroded. Both numbers should begin with P15.

I readily accept that for some enthusiasts collecting (hoarding?) parts is an enjoyable facet of the hobby, and that is ok. It may also create some degree of confidence knowing a spare is readily at hand. My point was that I haven't found it necessary to stock spares to keep my P15 on the road since I returned it to good service condition.

I don't stock parts for my P15, just get what I need when/if they are needed. It isn't a daily driver even though I drive it often. What parts would most folks have kept around back in the day? Probably not much...... These cars are so well designed that once you get one in good mechanical condition it doesn't take much to keep it in service.

Now we're thinking. Kinda like the guide pins we use for installing the transmission and oil pan.

Think in terms of the shunt inside the ammeter as being a dead short (it actually has a small amount of resistance). Connecting the ammeter across the battery terminals would be similar to connecting a wire between the terminals....the smoke escapes as the shunt blows like a fuse element. But put any load (bulb, motor, coil, etc) in the circuit and the smoke stays in the wires.

Looks like something is restricting water flow, maybe the radiator or water distribution tube? Or a bad water pump?

Hope 'bout a new voltmeter for $7? https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/multimeters-testers/7-function-digital-multimeter-63759.html I have four or five of this things scattered all around so one is always handy. Even gave some away when they were free with a Habba Fright coupon.

Since you have no loads connected an ammeter is of no value to you. A voltmeter is much more useful because it shows not only the state of charge of the battery but also the condition of the charging system via how much the battery voltage is increased with the engine running. If you see 7.3-7.5v with the engine running your charging system is working properly. Matter of fact, some of us consider the voltmeter to be more useful in the car than an ammeter......but that is a topic for a different discussion.

Yes, that is an outstanding looking car! The fact it is appreciated by a young driver just enhances its value. You haven't given us any details on what seems to be wrong with the clutch. Yes, a complete clutch kit can be installed but that might not be necessary. Is the clutch slipping under acceleration? Does it chatter when engaged? Does it make growling or whining noise when disengaged at a stop? All these diagnostics can point toward either a bad disc, improper adjustment, scored flywheel, scored or defective pressure plate, or defective release bearing, a leaking rear main seal....or a combination of factors. You may have already had an experienced person diagnose the clutch for you. I purchased a complete kit for my '48 Plymouth (basically the same car you have) from an online vendor and had the flywheel surfaced locally. I suspect I could have gotten by fine with just a new clutch disc and the release bearing in the kit was junk. I ended up reinstalling the old bearing. So some more info might help us guide you in a good direction. At least the poor abused clutch helped you learn to drive the 'three-on-a-tree'. Enjoy your new ride! ?

Ok...just trying to make sure the clutch disc is indeed completely gone instead of the clutch just being out of adjustment.

What do you mean by “killed the clutch”?

Welcome to the group! Your car doesn't resemble my '48 P15 much but I appreciate the fabrication skills and problem solving required to mod it. Nice ride!