Sam Buchanan

Man....I wish I was half the mechanic you guys are.............................

Ok.....so how do you propose to rebuild a vacuum advance unit?? You do exactly as I did, send in your old one and get a rebuilt one back. As far as I know there are no new ones available. Let's think before we post....... ?

Update: I forwarded the above message to AB and received a reply from Chris within an hour. Apologies were offered for the tardy service and explanations given (I won't go into that). AB sent me a credit statement that indicates the bankcard credit should be forthcoming. I will consider this matter closed provided the credit appears on my bankcard account in a timely manner. Andy Bernbaum has been a reliable vendor for me for four years and I assume that will continue to be the case. I appreciate their prompt attention to this matter today, just wish it hadn't been necessary to follow-up several weeks after the fact. Update: Credit has been received, case closed.

This is not an attempt at vendor bashing but just a heads up to inform the community. I purchased a rebuilt vacuum advance unit from Andy Bernbaum for my P15 and it arrived a few days after placing the order. The price included $30 which was to be refunded when I returned the old unit as a core. The old unit was shipped back to AB the same day I received the rebuilt advance and tracking indicated the core arrived at AB three days later. Ten days after AB received the core the $30 charge had not appeared on my bank card. I sent a web message indicating I had not yet received the refund. Fourteen days after AB received the core I still hadn't gotten the refund so I called and was told the refund was on its way. It is now over three weeks after AB received the core and still no refund. It is just $30 but the non-return of the refund, intentional or otherwise, indicates to me either a lack of interest in customer service, a breakdown of internal procedures, or something more serious. I have purchased a lot of merchandise from Andy Bernbaum and their ebay store but this is giving me pause about further purchases. I still hope this will be resolved and will not hesitate to update if that occurs because I have no desire to treat one of our vendors unfairly.

Not a way to service the vacuum unit, there is a diaphragm inside that will develop a leak and not hold vacuum. However, there is a spring inside it that can be easily removed, you might see if it has seized. The device can be checked by pulling a vacuum on it (orally or with a pump) to see if the arm moves and stays in position. But if you hear air moving through it the unit is done.

Agree. Probably defective battery and charging system due to either defective components or wiring problems. Need to spend some quality time with a multimeter.

Bottom photo; The vacuum advance line attaches at the square-headed pipe plug on the carb base. A reverse flare fitting goes where the plug is located. But most likely your advance unit is defective due to old age.

Here is the tank in my '48 Plymouth: https://vansauto.com/product/41-48-dodge-plymouth-desoto-chrysler-6-cylinder-gas-tank/ It is about as exact a fit as the original as you can most likely find. It doesn't have the built-in sump filter which is a good thing.

As a short-term fix slip some heat shrink tubing over them.

She'll run. Current thread about readily available spark plugs: https://p15-d24.com/topic/59840-autolite-sparkplugs-295-at-walmart-for-only-197-each-replacement-for-champion-j8c/

I hate spinach........

Another option is to put a valve in the heater hose. The on/off valve on the aft end of the head of my P15 was stuck open and I didn't want to risk it breaking off in the head if I tried to replace it. There are cable operated valves that install inline like this one but I haven't found that upgrade necessary, I just open and close the valve a couple of times per year when seasons change.

The reason the heels need to be adjusted so they very lightly contact the drum is so there is a base reference that gets the adjustment tool very close to drum diameter. Without this step you won't know how to set the adjusting tool. Once the heels are set, remove the drum and adjust the toes so they are within 0.006" of the heel. Then reinstall the drum, adjust the heels to barely remove any drag and adjust the toes if necessary to where they almost drag. The locking nuts on the heel adjusters need to to securely tightened, you can remove the drum for this once the brakes are adjusted. Then recheck after putting everything back together. This will get you very close to a satisfactory adjustment, readjust as necessary after putting some miles on the brakes. After doing this a couple of times you can leave the 0.006" gauge in the toolbox....you'll be able to do this by touch.

The 0.006" clearance is measured with the brake adjustment tool prior to installing the drum. The Miller tool, which very few of us have, allows a precise measurement of the drum ID compared to the OD of the shoes. Without that tool, we are left with using our simple little tool to insure the shoes are concentric within 0.006" after setting the heel of the shoes to lightly contact the drum. This is a workaround that usually results in satisfactory brake function.

Valves moving up high enough to strike the head??????

Look in our Classifieds for the rare-1941-chrysler-royal-3-window-coupe

Same here along with kitchen scrub pads from the same store.

Four (or eight) more pieces of 4x4 for stages and they have some adjustability and are still very secure. I realize people have been working under ratcheting jack stands for a long time, guess I've just gotten a lot less fond of them as my risk assessment changes with the advancing personal odometer.

Hmmmmm...........I feel a lot safer when using really solid jack stands that can't be knocked over.

Before you start yankin', take LOTS of photos of how stuff is connected. I mean LOTS of photos at different angles. These can be invaluable when you start wondering how something was prior to engine swap. Did I mention you need to take lots of photos? ?

The first step is to educate yourself on how these brakes assemble, adjust and function, otherwise you are lost. It looks like you either don't have a shop manual or haven't studied it. If you need a shop manual here is a link: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12781173&cc=1331727&pt=10335&jsn=494 While you are waiting on the manual to arrive, here is a tech article from the Tech section of our forum: https://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html/ One other little item......please punctuate your posts with some periods. Stick with it, once you understand these old brakes it is easier to maintain them.

Maybe I got lucky but I just filled the reservoirs and bled the cylinder using the bleeders on the master cylinder.

I noticed the same thing but didn't mention it because I didn't know if maybe the 1/4" steel might be stiff enough and it isn't cantilevered very much. But I had the same concern with the mount I built from lighter material and could detect a minute amount of flex. I added a brace to remove the possibility of fatigue of the bracket. A gusset on top of your bracket would do the trick.

Looks like your vacuum wipers are working normally.......they are driven by intake vacuum which is greater when the throttle is closed and reduced with open throttle. Some owners install a vacuum accumulator which stores vacuum for a steady source and there may be a fuel pump for your car that incorporates a vacuum pump. I suspect a 6v motor is an option, maybe someone on the forum can supply that info. An alternator will keep your battery topped up and make for reliable starting without the maintenance requirements of a generator and regulator. You're just starting your old Mopar journey, you will eventually come to appreciate the wonderful engineering in these old cars.

A healthy 6v system works very nicely for a daily driver. Only real reason for 12v is if you want to use 12v accessories. But the absolute first thing you need is one of these: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10593924&cc=1486874&pt=10335&jsn=374 Welcome to the community and enjoy your new ride!