Sam Buchanan

You can't run the engine with the top of the carb removed. What was being suggested is to run the engine, shut it off, then remove the top of the carb to see where the level of the fuel is being maintained in the carb bowl.

Failure of the gasket between the manifolds will not result in a vacuum leak but can certainly cause a lot of noise.

It's been affecting compression for about 80 years and several hundreds of thousands of engines....... We consider it "clever" engineering.

Agreed. But Donald's car was cranking, just slowly. That means the solenoid was getting enough voltage to pull in and send current to the starter. What you are describing is different--not enough voltage to pull in the solenoid and the starter doesn't turn. That is why I think Donald fixed his sluggish starter by improving the starter ground, not the solenoid ground.

Glad the starter is spinning better! However.....I'm puzzled by how the solenoid ground could effect starter performance. Isn't the ground just a connection for the solenoid coil? The coil doesn't carry current to the starter--if no ground the solenoid won't energize and the starter won't run. A poor ground might be enough to energize the coil and close the starter cable contacts. But the coil doesn't impact starter running speed, it's either on or off. I have to wonder if removing the bolt and cleaning it actually improved the starter ground (not solenoid ground) which allowed better spin. Is the bolt you removed one that attaches the starter to the bellhousing? You probably cleaned up the ground path for the starter which is a common remedy for a sluggish starter. If I need some education, please do so.

Are your new cables correctly sized for 6v? You need mongo-sized cables, you won't find them in a big-box auto parts store.

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Just a datapoint.....the bolts attaching the old master cylinder/pedal support to the bracket are too short. If nyloc nuts are used for locking purposes there should always be at least one, and preferably two or three threads protruding beyond the elastic lock. This is a critical area but something that is easily fixed.

So what does the rebuilder have to say about all this, especially the freeze plugs?

Wilwood 1", part #260-7563. The reservoirs come with the cylinder with adapters for either cylinder or remote installation.

You have a faulty cable.

Never use a torch around brake cleaner……it can kill you. https://www.thefabricator.com/thewelder/article/arcwelding/cleaning-material-with-brake-cleaner-before-welding-a-risky-move-that-can-turn-deadly#:~:text=The Safety Data Sheet (SDS,hydrogen chloride and possibly phosgene.” No need to buy a brake line kit. Your local auto parts store has prefabbed lines in various lengths, just put together whatever is needed.

Just a note about the filter. I've used the glass tube filters and commonly saw air in the filter. This never caused drivability problems, even on an engine that saw frequent full-throttle. ? I suspect the orientation of the filter traps some air that never enters the fuel supply to the carb. As mentioned above if you see bubbles being introduced into the filter that would indicate a suction leak. But most likely your running problems aren't related to the filter.

Are you sure there are no restrictions in the muffler or air filter?

Unnecessary post deleted.

Have you checked the condition of the release spring? Maybe it needs to be replaced or shimmed? The latch pin is adjustable.

Yep, that 225 psi rating should have an adequate safety margin. That is probably the hose Gates calls out for swaged hoses in the blurb I quoted above. On most of my automotive projects (and all aviation installations) I use stainless braided hose and AN fittings, but I went simple on the P15.

rc1700 has the same car as I so his installation should be identical to mine.

No...as stated the switch is attached to the floorboard. The arm you see over the switch is the brake pedal under the floor. Also as stated...the holes in the switch are threaded so no nuts are needed. Be advised the threads are metric, but two small screws are all that is necessary to mount the switch to the floorboard. When you look under your car this will be more apparent.

The photo I posted is about all there is to the installation. The switch has two threaded holes so a couple of screws can be used to attach it to the floor board. The switch is activated as the arm swings through an arc which is not adjustable. If adjustability is needed it is achieved by tweaking the switch attachment. In my case it works great as shown with no tweaking needed, the lights come on when the pedal is depressed about an inch. I don't know how to make this any more complicated.

The answer to your question is in this thread: https://p15-d24.com/topic/55364-o-ring-for-oil-pan-gasket/#comment-593626 That link was posted in a recent thread that will also be of interest to you: https://p15-d24.com/topic/60009-oil-pan-gasket/

We discussed this last week: https://p15-d24.com/topic/60113-brake-light-switch/ I really like the switch installation on my P15.

This hose on my P15 is braided 50psi, made in Amurrica, I've used this hose a bunch for a long time and never had problems with it. Is this the one you prefer? This from the Gates website: This fuel hose is recommended as the premium choice for clamped hose applications on all fuel systems, including fuel injection systems. Not designed to replace coupled hose assemblies on fuel injected engines. Approved for use with leaded and unleaded gasoline, diesel fuel and gasoline blends of ethanol, methanol and ethers (up to maximum concentrations allowed by the EPA) 100% methanol or ethanol and B100 biodiesel, up to 135OC. Key Features and Benefits: • Outstanding fluoroelastomer liner resists permeation and alcohol • Outstanding oil resistant tube combats heat. • Polyester braid reinforcement increases strength • Oil, heat, ozone and abrasion resistant cover • Meets requirements of SAE 30R9 • Superior for service life over standard fuel hose

Sounds similar to what I run in the P15, electric pump, mechanical pump block-off plate, and single metal filter at the tank. Since I replaced the tank and all lines I don't see a need for a filter at the carb. The firewall-mounted fuel line keeps it far away from manifold heat, never had any vapor lock issues.

Yep, it doesn't matter what cap you use, even a 30lb cap wouldn't make any difference since the system will never develop pressure with the open vent. A cork would work just as well. ? Below is where I keep the coolant level in my P15, you can also see the non-vented cap. The car runs no hotter than 185 in our horrid summers and I've never seen it burp. Maybe I'm lucky to have a radiator that seems to be healthy even though the top cap really needs paint or polish (!).