Sam Buchanan

Glad Plymouthy joined the discussion, I didn't know the '50 was different dimensions from my '48.

Yep, I saw that, too. But since the original post doesn't involve the switch I didn't mention it.

Maybe this will help: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an6.php I just crawled back under the car, looks like you need a bolt with a 1.5" grip. So that will be an AN6-20 or AN6-21 with drilled shank depending on what assortment of washers you use. The rod end you referenced in an earlier post has the same width (.500) as the standard eye. Here are the AN310-6 castle nuts: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an310_320.php

I was measuring and referring to the bolt that attaches the pushrod eye to the pedal.

My memory is sorta returning……there is a nut welded on the pedal end of the pushrod and a bolt on the cylinder end. I would prefer an AN6 bolt for the pedal pin, high strength but not brittle.

I just stepped out to the shop and to the best of my ability put calipers on the barely exposed threaded end of the pedal pin. I feel confident the pin is 3/8". I too used the stock ends on a fabbed pushrod and it works fine. I welded nuts on the ends of 4130 tubing to provide adjustment on both ends. This kept the old fittings in original condition in case they were ever needed in a standard installation.

There have been times when the "troll" word has come to mind but it would take a unique level of creativity to do this on purpose.....I've been moderating user forums for twenty years and never seen anything like this. But maybe I'm just being insensitive.

Just for grins I measured the pins I made, was wondering how they compared to the genuine Miller pins. I ground flats so a 3/8" wrench could be used in case they tightened up with the trans slid into place. One of the long pins works best with the oil fill plug removed and the short one is the top driver bolt. Just to show what shade-tree fiddlin' can do here the very crude cradle I use on the floor jack. This sorry looking contraption is strapped to the transmission and it usually works fine for lowering and raising the trans without a lot of drama or effort.

Your service manual will have the transmission and final drive ratios for your car. If it is the cousin of the P15 that I have third gear is 1:1 and the rear end has a 3.91 ratio. Only other thing you need is to measure the diameter of the tires and rpm can be calculated for any speed. As a datapoint, in my P15 (no overdrive) 2548rpm is 55mph, 2780 rpm is 60mph and 78mph would be 3614 rpm which is where rated power is achieved (but that isn't a recommended cruise speed!).

Oh no!! There is another forum that has been abused with this discussion?!? ?

Another method for finding highway rpm is with a gear ratio calculator. https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator

A good way to see this is to remember the wire going to the distributor gets "grounded" to the engine block when the points close. Since you have a positive ground car the positive terminal on the coil should be connected to the distributor. However, the engine will run either way, but wire it correctly just because.

I use them because I'm afraid I might distort the clutch disc if the input shaft doesn't go in straight. They also hold the trans pretty much in alignment if the clutch disc needs to be fudged to get the splines to line up (I don't have the correct spline alignment tool).

If it is it isn't any problem to get out..... ?

I don't know your transmission will compare with the one in my P15 but this is what works in my case. You can determine the length of the pins while you still have the trans in the car. See how long they can be without running into clearance problems and go from there. These are pretty much the maximum length that allows me to remove them once the trans is in place.

Sniper gave you a link for NOS hubs five posts ago…….sigh……… But you don’t need a new hub if you installed a speedi-sleeve.

Dust barrier between the seal and damper? Or maybe for a different application.

They were free, the mechanical advance was working fine, verified with timing light.

Thank you for the tip, James. I checked the piston when I was looking for an intake leak and it seems fine. But the defective advance unit was the problem, the diaphragm was completely blown out and was an open vacuum leak to the intake manifold.

Dodgeb4ya answered your questions in his post and photos of yesterday.....has your friend seen those photos??? Marc, we all want to see you figure this out but this thread has now pegged the incredulous meter......box up your cover and a new seal, send them to Dodgeb4ya and put this to bed. ? ?

Here is a link to a plug comparison chart: https://www.autolitesparkplugs.com/heat-range-conversion-chart-2 However, look at this note about Autolite plugs which complicates things: Where is Autolite? Autolite's numbering system does not have a standardized heat range identifier. The last digit in an Autolite part number represents the heat range within a plug family. For example, take the 254x plug series. Autolite has 2544, 2545 and 2546 available. 2544 is the coldest plug in that plug family, and 2546 is the hotest. However, according to an Autolite reference chart, Autolite 86 has the same heat range as 2244 and Autolite 303 is a hotter plug than 2974. Therefore, it is impossible to chart an Autolite heat range hierarchy, let alone a standardized comparison to other spark plug brands.

Just to close the loop on this thread--the P15 ran nicely without a vacuum advance but I decided to install a new one since that is how the distributor was designed. I purchased a rebuilt advance from Bernbaum and even though I don't have numbers to support my observation (placebo effect?), the engine does seem to have a bit better midrange response. I didn't change the 10* BTDC static timing. The light throttle lean condition that started this thread is now gone.

Is that timing cover going to be useable after this punishment???

It doesn't matter. The alternator will only supply the amount of current needed to keep the battery charged. 100a would only be needed if there were very heavy loads (large electric fan, AC, emergency lights, flux capacitor...???).

Your new alternator has an internal voltage regulator, that is the beauty of the one-wire system, no external regulator needed. Follow Plymouthy's advice, either use the old terminal as a junction point or tie the wires together and toss the regulator. That is why you don't see a regulator in my installation, just a fuse between the car's BAT wire and the alternator's output.