Bryan

Went and bought the Harbor Freight 450 lb low profile transmission jack yesterday. Today I cleaned out the garage and made space for the motor stand I bought a few weeks ago. Knew my floor jack wouldn't be safe with the transmission. Messing around checking old gaskets against the dual exhaust manifold I received. About all the Umpf I have in me today.

Yep, when I was messing with motorcycle carbs it was for a Kawasaki H1. Idle jet for idle and off idle, needle height and taper for lower & mid range, then main jet for 3/4 to full throttle. You could get needles with different tapers.

So I'm not crazy...?. How did it work? Were there any issues at certain RPM ranges? You made my day..?

Some times a metric socket will fit when the bolt head is worn (or odd).

I'll fix em...

Trying to keep it as quiet as possible. Found the general theory and what my muffler guy was saying that the longer the muffler (generally) the quieter it is. Unlike my Dakota I have plenty of space for a long muffler. The 2.25 in and out puts it to 2 Walker models 17827 ($38) and 18106 ($31). 2.5 in and 2.25 out gives 1 model 18109 ($34) but special order. I might go with both 2.25 if I get me a Y with two 2" in and one 2.25 out. Yeah, there are calculations for pipe size needed vs horsepower..don't think I'll be ever pulling 200HP.

Sorry to hear that. Just when I get down about having a lingering cold that's keeping me out of the garage..others have more urgent issues. Will be praying for you..

Think I'll also smear some silicone around on some of the joints and terminal entries to make it more water resistant.

Just got mine in. Based on what you are saying I'll bend the tabs down more.

I had measured the existing muffler I have for my 1948 Dodge but later found by looking at my Hollander book it wasn't exactly correct. My muffler has a 22" long body, but has offset inlet and outlet. The book says #24 part 676955, a 5X8 oval body 2" offset inlet, 1.75" center outlet, 23" body and 27 1/2" overall length. Since I'm getting dual exhaust (cracked my manifold) I'm looking at using a Y from the headers with a 2.5 outlet, going into the muffler with 2.5" and exiting with 2.25. The only two makes that are close in length are $186 Flowmaster 70s (ouch) and Walkers ($27 - $36). Others were too small. Rather than list a bunch of models, I'd rather just say to use Walker's search engine for universal mufflers entering only an oval shape, the inlet diameter and position and outlet position, 1 count for both, with all else entered as unsure, and then look thru what you need.. Some of the listed models are no longer available. AND if you see a muffler you might want DON"T CLICK ON IT..it clears the results and search engine entries. Write it down on a card and look on another web tab to see if available.

Tell me about it...1992 Dodge Dakota about 2 years ago. What I learned is it is best to install a new unit, hoses and PS pump to make sure the system is internally clean.

I have seen where people use a drill, drill a hole in he center of the plugs and pry them out. Don't drill too deep, just in the plug. The water distribution tube is behind the water pump. MTSC - 1948, Volume 2-1 When The Temperature Rises - YouTube

Ouch, ouch...ouch!

Sorry I'm grumpy, haven't been feeling well..was out a little over an hour trying to get something done.

Yeah, hurray for the humor.. I checked some other posts and see that it's best to take the transmission off first. Thanks for the help.

Did a little today even though not feeling well..it's 70F here in SC. Took the linkages loose. From the top and bottom of the transmission I'm wondering if it will clear, see pics. Has anyone taken one out with the driveline brake on? Also I went to take one of the short arms off the transmission. Nut off, gently tapped arm and started seeing a brass bushing so I stopped, and tightened it back up. Does this come off? Please see 4th pic.

Thanks..know it sounds silly sometimes but I just don't know.. Was just looking thru Ebay and ran across this, but wish I could find a 3.54. Not ready yet, got too much ongoing now. NOS Mopar 1946-1961 Plymouth Dodge Desoto Chrysler 8-1/4" 3.90 Ring and Pinion | eBay

I was trying to understand more about my car, a 1948 Dodge sedan. When I look at Rock Auto, it lists an 8.75 carrier bearing. My service manual doesn't even mention a ring gear size..nor any info on pinion gear end spline numbers, inner axle spline numbers, nothing except gear ratios. Where do you find info that states ours is a 8.25 R & P? In a couple of years I probably would change mine to a 3.54 ratio if I could. What does one search for on Ebay, and know it's right? And lastly, what the heck is a 7 passenger sedan? 3 in front, stuff 4 in back?

This is going to sound crazy, but I wonder if there is any way a machine shop could adapt a modern ring to an old carrier. Wouldn't it be a matter of re-drilling holes in the carrier plate and threading to match a modern ring? Then adapting the matching pinion to the housing (length, bearing width, etc). I see where literature mentions the 8.75 starting in 1957, but never see anything about our vehicles (pre 1957).

And, wasn't feeling well today. Stayed inside mostly except to confirm a few measurements and check wire colors. The black coloration in the picture isn't burnt..some kind of tar based tape was on the wire.

I looked today and ordered a bunch of wire colors (about 80ft total) from Rhode Island Wire. Their prices are pretty low compared to others. Only down side is by phone orders only, not even confirmed by email. But we'll see.

Yep, already found 2 sources for cloth covered wires w tracers, Brillman and on Ebay Ton's Performance. They sell wire in 5, 10, 20 or 25 ft rolls. All my wiring inside and under the dash is in perfect shape. I've worked on electronics a lot and will splice new wire (and solder) near the firewall. I can do connectors also. Will do it close to original but in a way I feel silly, 95% of the original wire is covered in electrical tape or rubber hose (bonded to the wire).

My father disconnected his and had a manual choke. Just did the same you had..went to take it off, both bolts broke, but I snapped the manifold in half anyway. One end was already cracked.

Also today was measuring for buying wires: Here are my notes: Fender holes for light wires are 1” W without insert and 3/4” W with. Plan to use grommets. Driver side park light wire is 18 ½” long + 6” inside housing. Passenger side park light wire is 66” L (say 68) + 6” inside housing. Don’t forget turn signal wire and separate ground wire if running extra wires. Driver side headlight wires are 16 ½” + 8” inside fixture. Ground wire to rim use 1 ft. If separate ground wire same length as above. Passenger side headlight wires are 57” L (say 59”) + 8” in fixture. Plus 1 ft ground if not running new. Light wires from terminal to dimmer switch is about 54” L, make it 60” to be safe. Remember extra park wire. Between horns wire is 19” (say 20”). Horn to terminal area is 10”. Terminal to horn relay is 36”. Buy 66” total. HR to solenoid wire is 10”, buy 12”. Generator to regulator wires is 26” L (say 28”). Small wire is light green with yellow tracers, large wire seems to be salmon color or light red. My splices between solenoid, horn relay, etc to firewall will be less than 2 ft.

Had to knock off early, feel like getting a cold again. Tried fitting my Power Wagon PCV stuff just to see if okay. The draft tube fitting is looser than the original, probably will need to use some type of gasket or O-ring. Intake end seems to fit better in front of the intake. I see the side fitting on the intake but trying it there the bottom draft tube fitting doesn't make sense. Plus as I've commented before, the supplied valve never gets complete suction one way. It has full flow one way, somewhat restricted flow the other.. might buy a cheap modern valve to test. Was expensive..and I think there are more parts I haven't bought that need to go to the air cleaner..