Bryan
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Posts
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Everything posted by Bryan
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Yep, just like that. Yeah, if you have the right tools.. You have to be able to spread both ends & push at the same time, otherwise they just spin round and round. Usually on the small ones you can get a gap started at the crest, and pry it out. Otherwise, round and round, round and round..
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Well, got the transmission out, and loosened the Master cylinder without breaking anything. The master cylinder has 3 bolts that thread into welded nuts on a frame. Glad I didn't strip them or break anything off. 2nd picture - C clamps for the pedals - didn't have a tool to get them off. They were too big to do like I normally do, no gap in the deep part of the C. Stopped messing with it before I got ticked off and cleaned my shop up, cleaned tools up and put them up.
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Oh crud..same thing I was playing with late this afternoon. Didn't have a C clamp tool..stopped before I got ticked off. Let's engineer it with C clamps in the tightest space possible. And make the pedal arms one solid piece so you can't move it forward to get out.
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Just pulled the transmission. Strange that it has an upper hole facing the clutch housing that leaks fluid if you turn it upside down or on its side. From the mating face looks like it was leaking..
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Some of the newer electric vehicles have electric compressors for AC.
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Sam - I did like yours except all black cables 00 and a separate lighting ground 4 AWG.
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Should work fine. Might want to add a 2nd CO detector and have 1 near the rear of the car and 1 on the other side. We have a CO2 detector in our house extra to the CO detector. CO2 high level isn't as harmful but can make you sluggish.
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I'm trying to order wheel cylinders & master cylinder from Rock Auto. For the wheel cylinders they only list 12" brakes. When I measure the inside diameter of my drums they are 11". The backing plate is exactly 12". Measured inside diameter of my wheel cylinders are 1 1/8". Look exactly the same as RA pictures. Anybody can answer this?
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Battery, starter and ground cables came today. Very flexible 00.
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Thanks a bunch..almost had the transmission off, at least got the bolts loose. Maybe tomorrow.. then I'll order the bolts.
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These haven't been greased or moved in 30 yrs. Probably dry. Most of the movement is up and down, clunks loud. Very little side motion at all.
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Here's the short rear end video. Sounds a little loose. 1948 Differential mini.mp4
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Done for today. Got the drive shaft off. Transmission loosened but had trouble how to do the straps on the transmission jack. Checked the right front wheel out. No rebuild on those wheel cylinders. Spindle worn a little. Anybody with opinions on spindle condition? The vertical pin (kingpin?) behind the brake backing plate clunks, mostly up and down motion. Will post later short video on pinion end of differential.
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48 Chrysler axle shims and end play not making sense ???
Bryan replied to harmony's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Speaking of pinion end play, I've got my drive shaft off and can't feel any by just pulling on it back and forth. Seems to clunk a good bit when rotating back and forth. -
Make sure the toothed wheel is not rusted where it can't turn some. Compare the action with another door that works.
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I'll just throw a kit in there and it'll be done..?? Brake drums measuring 11", wheel cylinders 1 1/8"..
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Yeah, even the Amazon site says it doesn't fit a 1954 Plymouth Plaza..but they are not always right. Good thing with them they always take it back for return. Just trying to be helpful.
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Someone didn't have the big socket back then...Also on mine at least the rubber edge seems okay.
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Sorry, if the Ebay ad is right they should fit his 54 Plaza. Maybe you can find an Ebay guy dumb enough to show the part #.
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You can pay penance by telling me what bolts/washers make a harbor freight 2000 lb motor stand work on a 230 L6. ?
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And verified by Rock Auto site.. last pic..that last number has to be a 1.
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Pictures in reverse order but you get the idea.
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I tried on my Hollander to trace it and find the part #s. None exist. But I got a part number from some idiot on Ebay trying to sell a pair for $209. He exposed the part # for magnification. Maybe try this from Amazon. If not the right part you can send it back.
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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v154/mikemaker/My car crap/PICT1904.jpg
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And looking at mine, and a picture of another post some years back, it seems like these dampers just sandwich a piece of rubber between two surfaces. People cut gaskets for other items. What prevents me from buying a specific thickness rubber stock on Amazon and making a sandwich? Sure beats paying $100. Amazon.com: NABOWAN Solid Rubber Sheets,Strips,Rolls 1/4" (.250") Thick x 12" Wide x 12" Long Neoprene Rubber Mat : Industrial & Scientific
