Bryan

I should have taken pictures of the damper sides..One side is really eat up from someone letting the puller slip, or beating on it. Don't know how well these are balanced but seems like it would affect the balance.

Got 2 small pecan trees planted this morning. Finally got all the small bolts out of the vibration damper. Had to use a Dremel on a few of them to clean the heads up (straighten flat sides) so I could get a socket on them. Also had to use the Dremel on the big center nut. Someone had used a chisel to try to turn the nut. Buggered it up. Got the engine turning most of the way. Got a few stuck valves. Was careful pulling with the bar, plenty of penetrating oil & a little torch work. Used some brake fluid on them..maybe let it set tonight. Valves are really rusty. Also measured and checked for bolts that I will need. Buying bolts gets expensive. Been using McMaster-Carr, they have a good selection and smaller quantities.

It was 45F (7 C) this morning, too cold for me to get out. Waited til 10 am to go out and plant 2 pecan trees. 60F (15.5C) and the wind blowing, sweating and getting chilled was no fun. Reckon once it gets about 70F (21 C) towards 1pm it'll be warm enough in the garage to lay under the car on cardboard and concrete. Y'all would probably be down here in shorts & T-shirts. ?

Yeah in SC, you get few hills. What's fun is if you get NW of Spartanburg and start heading up into the mountains. My 2015 Corolla was having fun with those. ?

You're not talking about me doing the round and round on that master cylinder clip are you? ? ? Concerning mods, right now I just want to get mine running. I went to dual headers only because I broke the exhaust manifold (and it already was cracked on the end). I would rather do everything original, drive it around a couple of years, and when I had money and time maybe change something like brakes if I found it needed it, or dual carbs just to tinker. Then I'd have a baseline to compare the change against. Of course I wouldn't want to find out I needed better brakes by planting in the rear of a semi.. Drive very carefully.

On the bolts holding the transmission to the bell housing, upper left one was missing, and I had the feeling a couple were too short. Pic below, there is a third hole above these two that was empty. Lower bolt hole used area looks too short. Also looking at the clutch, given what I can see (bearing and arm) looks like I'll probably be replacing it.

Transmission-Chrysler (marxparts.com) about 1/2 way down. Roberts Motor PartsAntique Dodge Truck Parts Antique Plymouth Parts Antique Dodge Parts Transmission Gasket Package For 3-Speed 1940-1954 Plymouth Probably same thing.

Reasonable price seems to be $22-25. Guy on Ebay trying for $50.?

Thanks..will find a good source.

Another picture showing that it leaks mounted to bell housing.

Question..I get the feeling that my transmission leaks at places other than the top left hole shown on the picture. I need to check it around Tuesday..Monday I'll be planting 2 pecan trees. Does anybody know where I can get transmission gaskets? It has leaked on the driveshaft emergency brake liner. Liner is thick. Do the brake work if it is oily?

I have this 3 ton Arbor press in my shed, barely enough to do a universal joint..

Open with MS paint program, hit "Resize", enter about 40% and save to whatever filename "small".

I remember someone saying the original water pumps have 2 wings on the impeller. The new replacements have several vanes on the impeller.

Latch pics frpm mine. I'll have to remember a year from now.

I saw someone's post mentioning if you have fluid drive and leave it in gear sitting it will slowly overheat.

Look at the data sheet on this.. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mg-chemicals/8481-1/6035522?utm_adgroup=Product Detail Pages&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Dynamic Search_EN_RLSA_Buyers&utm_term=%2Fproduct-detail%2F&utm_content=Product Detail Pages&utm_id=bi_cmp-384476622_adg-1297423946242034_ad-81089045896429_dat-2332888796292693:aud-808187301:loc-190_dev-c_ext-_prd-&msclkid=56449bef02b117f1e03cfa4466014273

In my opinion you don't need a transmission ground strap unless there was some electrical device on the transmission like a solenoid or relay. I can see a strap for the rear lighting area to frame. Whiles tearing mine apart finding a lot of rubber strips separating fender parts. One would think for the starter if you make sure the metal mounting surfaces were bare metal and not rusted (and stayed that way) that would be enough. Some high temp dielectric grease?

My engine, where the block was replaced in 1949 a year after he bought the car .

Yeah, took me a while to get mine off and I also had to ask someone. That middle strip piece holding the chrome mounts at both ends front and back. The hood halves would have to slide from front to back to install. The last pic shows that the front mount is taller than the rear mount even though they look the same.

If it's not pulling to the right or left it is something in common with both sides. So it shouldn't be a binding pad. Don't know a lot about brakes but looked up some YouTube videos that might help. Easy Fix for locked-up front brakes? - YouTube Power Brake booster is locking up the brakes | Team Camaro Tech (camaros.net) Master Power Brakes FAQs (mpbrakes.com) Performance Perspectives: Master Cylinder Selection | MOTOR I'm seeing over and over again people saying there has to be a little play between master cyl rod and booster. The mounting height of the master cylinder/booster wouldn't cause your problem. See picture 3.

Thanks, I'll try that..was a long day.

Thanks...I was having to do the brake system (and all the fuel lines) anyway. Seems you can get a kingpin repair set for about $50. Just don't know how hard it is to do. I'm dreading going into the rear end. One, don't want to be popping anymore bolts. Two, on my Dodge Dakota that was what started me to overhaul it, the axle bearings were a little loose. Had to open the differential up to get the axles out..it was wobbling like a basketball. Stress had caused it to stretch the finger on the carrier side threaded retainers. Carrier bearings were loose and races were spinning in the housing. I ended up overhauling the whole thing. The drive shaft is off. I could go in there and tighten the backlash..again, afraid of what I'll find. OCD me wants everything to be perfect...

Thanks for the info on that..if all else fails I'll get in the car (with me all cleaned up) and remove pedal as you said.

Exactly how I usually do C clips..just these were big ones. I saw the plate on the firewall. Was trying to avoid that. Anyway.. getting that pin out might require heating the body of the old MC up and tapping it out. Oil and smoothing the rust out on the pin with some 600-1000 grit sand paper might help. Just enough to smooth it. The problem might be getting the pin in the new body. Probably can't heat the body up too much, might damage the rubber parts. One thing I did with a ring and pinion set (getting the ring gear on the carrier) - I froze the carrier in the freezer (-4F) and heated the gear. On this one you could freeze the pin and slightly warm the MC body. Once you get it in and going straight don't stop.