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I think it's perfectly appropriate at this time for me to state the obvious.......Electrolux really sucks!

Cheer up! You know what they say,any road trip that doesn't result in mass murder followed by suicide was a successful road trip.

show some pics ! we love pics \o/

http://www.roadkill.com/413-powered-1952-chrysler-new-yorker-dominates-new-england-lemons-race/

I thought I had it made with replacing the brakes on my 50 Ply. 4dr. I had totally lucked out several years ago buying a set of all four brake drums on EBAY, very reasonable and shipping form southern US to CA. was almost unbelievable When time came to do brake job I measured my old drums then the purchased. Old were + .020, +.040, +060 x 2. New were all smooth as new and 10" never been turned! New bonded brake shoes, new wheel cyl.'s, hoses AND was able to borrow the Ammco adjusting tool. After bleeding 2-3 times brakes were solid but low. Removed drums and adjusting again- I had missed the shoes had a unlevel in to out tilt. Reread the repair manual about this condition and how to correct this, were the tool showed what was need to level the shoe to the drum. Recentered all with the Ammco tool and reassembled. Better and drove for about 30 miles. Solid brake but not at the top with the correct free-play. Very workable and felt safe but not perfect? Raised car did minor adjustments only -front and rear drove and repeated after another 50 miles-- Perfect. 3 years later still very good. DJ

Beyond the one that is 0 the rest of those seem very low for a rebuilt engine

Have you contacted the rebuilder??? Like wouldn't that be your first bridge to cross? Give them a call, and tell em what happened, if he is reputable, they will do something about it...

do the math and weigh your wallet....find one at 4.5 width or buy three at 5 1/4........if math is not a strong suit and money is not the problems...look to get some good rims at 6.0/7.0 and run some good easy to obtain modern rubber on that unit with no worries scurrying in the back of your brain like cock roaches at a feeding frenzy...spare could be anything but rotation of your tires in use will not be limited...

I am not sure if people are expecting the brakes on out 1930-40 and 50's car and trucks to perform and stop like our modern 2000 ish vehicles. Back before power brake and vacuum assisted brakes all we had were the manual and if the case of rod mechanical brakes. When our fathers drove these cars the speed were not as fast and the roads were not as good, in certain terms, in which we can average 70+ mph on a super highway and then can come to a complete stop without any fading or softness in the brakes as to be compared when driving on the technology that 80 or so years old. I think everyone has to get back in the car and then think about what they are going to be driving in the next few minutes. It is not your current car but an antique car. The cars do not stop on a dime but can, they do not have the acceleration like the current cars and lighting of halogen bubs and 12 volt system if they are a stock antique vehicle. So if you brakes have a good pedal with the proper amount of travel in the pedal as per the spec's for your car then you should be good go. BUT and I say BUT you have to be in the frame of mind that you are driving an old car and they act slower and anticipate situations, like noticing that a green light has been green for awhile as you get closer to the intersection. Did the light just turn green now you have a much longer time to get through the intersection, anticipate additional stopping distances be aware of the extra distance that might be needed to stop remember the old safe diving lesson keep 3 car lengths between you and the other car. You need in more so reason to be a defense driver in the older cars. We have to have that understanding in our minds before we even venture out of the garage and everytime we start up the antique car, These are older and they do not act like our modern cars. So think of driving your modern 2016 car with a v6 coming home from work and then on the next day you had to use you old Model A to get to work an entirely different driving situation as a prime example. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Four of us UK-based Plymouth owners are planning to race our cars at this new event in April, so we should be able to add some more information to the mix. We'll be competing in the same class as the flathead V8 powered full-bodied cars, so that'll be interesting, too. The photo of the two Plymouths shows Chris and Dean racing over 1/8th mile at ATOMIC Vintage Festival.

I think the best part of this story is the last sentence.

I may add if she is a keeper- start teaching her how to change a fuel pump and even may open the top of the carb.? Wishful thinking! DJ

The reason that tag is screwed to the floor next to the gas pedal rod is of course to stop the gas pedal from pushing over to the right and losing capability of full throttle. The two ball holes in the bottom of the pedal or the two floor pan ball studs are worn and or damaged and won't keep the gas pedal straight up.

The master will work fine, but the proportioning valve would most likely not be right for front drums, but you can pick up an adjustable one for fairly cheap from Summit or Jegs etc.