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cold, wind, snow, rain.........this is a family site, enough of the four letter words.😁

Have been digging through all the good information on here helping with this build but posting little to probably nothing. First flathead 6 build I've done so everyone has been a great help even though they may not know it. Don't have any pictures other than from when I brought the truck home May 2024 and don't think I put these up. Right now it is in many pieces buried out in a pole barn and but 218 will be coming home from the engine shop decked and shaved plus breathing as a 230. Collecting and watching for body parts anywhere near NW PA that aren't rotted is near impossible but that is part of the fun, right? Well most days it is. Thanks again for the great info!

Had to go out and look at mine to remember what I did .... If I did it, we know it is not right First of all my generic plug wires are too short. I just ordered 6 universal plug wires the same length from RA. Just something to get the engine started .... never did change them. I cut slots in my mount for the wires .... it is easy to take off and on as needed ... not very often. I have had my coil bracket off several times before finally decided on electronic ignition, and it is in its final form now. If the wires were long enough, I think they would stay where they belong with no problem .... only 3 wires on each side. Or you can install the wires, cut to length and do final assembly in place ... hope you do not need to remove later.

$1979?! That was expensive, I've got a used one for $100 if you're interested.

I took my boots off and reinstalled after.

I have a Delta Mark Ten CD ignition ( 6 volt ) and my Overdrive works fine. If you look at the diagram the ignition is only momentarily interrupted by the solenoid through the throttle switch. In operation you’ll never feel it or hear it. All it does is make sure there’s no torque on the drive train so that the solenoid releases. As for a problem for the ignition, remember the spark is going to ground anyway and if it goes to ground before it gets to the spark plug, the engine misses. Engine miss doesn’t hurt the ignition.

Adam Sandler movie, The Waterboy....the Cajun coach....he is a hoot....lol

Saskwatch.......I've been wearing glasses since I was 13, now 71........so I have 4eyes........able to see things....lol......andyd

Roberts Motor parts has remanufactured hub cap copies.

Yes, I grew up near there in NW Indiana a couple of miles south of Lake Michigan. I was a paperboy when the blizzard of 78 rolled in, chest deep snow. Drifts to the peak of the house. There is a reason I moved. I have cousins in the area who like to give me grief when it's 110+ out here and I point them to their show shovels.

I don't see how to connect the disgronificator.

If that was a universal plug wire set, then the boots and crimped metal contacts on the distributor cap side can be carefully removed. Run them wires through the looms as required, then reinstall the boots and crimp the contacts back on. The molded spark plugs ends are not original, but are practically required to keep that contact sealed to the plug...Mopar even marketed an Evr-Dry kit to upgrade original plug wires for performance gains.

That diagram is a riot! Just as Abraham Lincoln once said, "Don't believe everything you see on the internet"...................

This is what it looks like. My car is a 38 I think the 37 is the same.

Now you are thinking like a Minnesotan!

2 more bumper stickers- - DJ

Sorry gents, but I completely disagree with you on this thread. Now please remember that I'm just a dumb truck guy from the other side, but I have overhauled and adjusted many steering boxes over time, and please trust me when I say that two or more inches of play at the steering wheel is neeither necessary nor acceptable. I have less than half an inch of play in the wheel of my 1948 Pilothouse. Cars should be every bit as critical when adjusted. Here's what's inside: the two gears - worm gear hooked to your steering wheel and the sector shaft - hooked to your steering linkage. There is a bearing on top of the box where the worm shaft exits to the steering wheel. The sector shaft has a bushing inside the lower part of the box where the shaft exits downward to the linkage. If this bushing is worn, you will have play. If you have had the borttom off and subtracted shims, maybe you didn't take enough out. There should be absolutely zero play up and down - laterally - in the worm shaft or steering wheel. If you have your wheels turned straight ahead, there should be no up and down play in your steering wheel when you pull and push on it. If any exists, remove more shims till it is all gone. If you pull all the shims out and still have play, the box or the worm gear are worn out. Once you have zero lateral play in the worm shaft, adjust the lash setting with the big screw-in bolt on top. This meshes the two gears - worm and sector - together for a tight fit. The only ticklish part of this adjustment is the fact that there is a high spot on the gears when they are dead center with each other. Please believe me when I say you cannot move one gear to a different spot to get less wear. Both gears turn their entire travel when you turn your wheels lock to lock - left to right. Try this: Jack up the front end and turn the steering wheel against the left stop. Now count the turns and turn it against the right stop. Now turn the wheel back to center, counting the turns again and going exactly half way. For examople, if you have seven full turns lock to lock, turn the wheel back exactly three and a half turns. At this point, your steering box is centered with the worm gear and pinion. What's that you say, your wheels aren't straight ahead now that the box is centered? Well, you just found your steering box play problem. Someone over the years adjusted the toe-in - likely it was done many times over time - and got the box off center. What you must now do is lock the steering wheel in this box-centered position and turn the tie rod adjusters so that the wheels are also straight ahead with the box in the centered position. The high spot in the center of the gears is to help the wheel return to center after you make a turn and let go of the wheel - has nothing to do with the crown in the road or what your mother-in-law fed you for breakfast. Get the box centered, and then center the wheels. If it's off a whole lot, you may want to resort to (gulp) paying for a front end alignment where you would tell the giy to first center the box and then the wheels. With both the box and the wheels centered, now is the perfect time to adjust that mesh load screw on top of the box. Get it snug and go for a road test. If you have it too tight, it will not return to center after a turn completely. If it feels tight across the center area, back it off a quarter turn and check it again. Do these things and you will have zero play in your steering. If you still have slop over the center area, your box is just plumb tuckered - time to hunt another one that's tighter. Good luck