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I've never been able to wear the clutches out in my 1948/50 Chryslers over 40+ years slipping the clutches in them.

Thank you Tod for locking. Just to clarify the reason for no political/religion threads is because inevitable someone gets pissed off and it turns ugly. I have seen other forums destroyed by this behavior going rampant. Unfortunately "if people act as adults" is not a given based on my experience. 😒 Robert, the idea is P15-D24 is a safe haven from the the many "outside forces" that can distract us from the primary objective, keeping our mopars on the road!

When I was young and dumb ( friends tell me I may not be young anymore but not much else has changed ) I used to feel bad when someone stuffed a V8 in an old car. Even though I lived for 30+ years in Northern Nevada, I never once bothered with Hot August Nights. Every nice old car had a Chevy V8 which was nothing I cared to see. Well I am changing my tune. Took long enough I suppose. I now love hot rods & resto-mods! You see the folks that build them usually have some great stuff to sell so they can pay for their new V8! And you can get some great deals. In the last couple of months I scored a 50 Chrysler Windsor chassis which yielded 12 inch brakes, a 3/4 inch front sway bar and a set of wheels ( wider by about an inch and a half ). I haven’t done the measurements yet but the lower front A-arms have the spring plates on the bottom, so you could lower the front if you used stock springs. This came from a guy who is putting a Dakota frame under his car with a V8. Yesterday I scored a very nice 230 engine with an Edgy head, Thickstun manifold, Stromberg carbs, rebuilt damper, T5 adaptor ( which I will never use as I prefer an Overdrive ) Reds headers and boxes of parts. This came from a guy who is putting a Chevy V8 in his pre-war Plymouth. I love the charm of my two flathead Plymouths, I always have. Putting a V8 in one just doesn’t fit with how I enjoy them. However, I no longer look down on what other folks do with their’s. Now I get excited by their engineering and craftsmanship. I am no engineer but I appreciate those who are. Are we in any danger of “running out of stock unmolested” cars? Probably not in my lifetime.

Mine are manual and they work great! Master power had both power and manual cylinders when I bought mine, not sure if both are still available.

You can slip the clutch when accelerating from a dead stop...I do it at times with out just dumping the clutch. You can accelerate from a dead stop faster when needed by properly slipping the clutch. The FD clutch discs are not that delicate is all I'm saying.

Well, as a hotrodder let me reply.....lol..........at 17yrs old & still at school I bought my 1940 Dodge 4dr Sedan in 1971 for $15.00, it was complete down to the hubcaps, owners manual & 6weeks registration but a non goer due to burnt ignition wires.....got it towed home, decided to restore it, over 18mths & my 1st well paying job I had the engine gearbox, diff, brakes all restored then the engine decided to leak & I pulled the sump & rear main & discovered swarf still in the sump and scored bearings.........severe dose of the shits occured so I decided to "hot rod" the car.......bought a 1962 Oz Chrysler Royal & installed its 313 Poly auto, diff etc and over the ensueing couple of years a rack & pinion, 4 wheel disc brakes, repaint, widened rear fenders, etc etc, etc.....sold off all the stock bits and what you see is what the car has been since essentially 1973.....a Hotrod........upsets the restorers but its my car, I've had it for 52 years now and I even get the odd grudgingly positive comment from those restorers who poo-pooed me and the car......BTW Loren.......that T5 adaptor that came with your recent purchase offers the ability to bolt a T5 OVERDRIVE gearbox without all the hassles of solenoids and electrical crap that accompanies the stock mopar overdrive gearboxes...... ........anyway.........heres a couple of pics of the ol' brown *******(1971 Chrysler Mahogany Metallic)...the 1st couple of pics shows the 1940 Dodge Coupe I'd pulled apart and originally bought the 4dr sedan to use as a parts car for, then a pic showing the Dodge on its 1st trip with the V8 in 1973 then a pic showing the rear fenders getting a 2" widening piece and a recent pic of the car & engine bay......regards from Oztralia......Andy Douglas

Come on, why ya gotta be splitting hairs? 😁 OP said there was no flywheel with FD, I said that there was (with brief details), then you agreed by adding further details...sounds like we're on the same side on this one again...bottom line, tinkering with that FD coupling should be done with care as they can be easy to mess up with improper maintenance and scarce repair parts. OP has a long row to hoe before getting this beast rolling under its own power safely, and helping out with theee details is beneficial in reducing repair costs AND improving enjoyment factor 🏆

That’s not correct. There is no conventional flywheel on a FD vehicle. The FD unit has 8 studs that attach directly to the crank flange. The ring gear for the starter is on the FD housing. The output of the FD is the driven plate, which acts as a flywheel surface for the clutch to mount to. Yes, the transmission gear box is a completely separate unit with it’s own oil. I would recommend just checking the level in the FD unit and adding if needed. If you do change it I would recommend ISO AW32 tractor hydraulic oil. You should be able to find that at your Tractor Supply store. It is very slow to drain, and to fill, if you decide to change the oil. The same plug is used for both. Crank the engine until the plug is at the bottom to drain. Then crank it again until the plug can be accessed through the bell housing inspection/fill hole at around the 2:00 position. This is the position for both checking and filling.

Yes, for the preservationist it can be a "bitter-sweet moment" - get the now un-wanted parts to complete or improve one's own vehicle, while "mourning the loss" of another "original".

1. Well, IF and I mean IF you get that set screw out, you'll be one of a VERY few who do. Right hand screw, but generally so frozen in and small of a drive it doesn't happen. Most find a different way, drilling out, breaking off etc. to get the keeper screw out. See below for my way of dealing with it. The door and ingnition should be the same key. 7. Merle is right, I have loosened several this way. I hung a cinder block to help put tension on while hanging vertical.

I live a few miles outside of Comfort off I-10 (San Antonio, Boerne, Comfort…). After you remove the clutch cover, e-brake stuff, and speedometer cable you remove shifter arms and then unbolt the front u-joint connector at the back of the trans. You are then ready to unbolt the trans and pull it. It is HEAVY. When I was a pup I could jack up the front and pull it by myself - those days are gone. In the photo, starting at the back of the engine, the first is the fluid coupler. It is bolted to the crankshaft. Next is a small “flywheel” that the clutch bolts to. If you are pulling the trans, get a new, sealed throwout bearing. Don’t get one with a grease fitting (they fail because they are a pain to grease).

I have each but they are filed away somewhere for now and to be honest with you....not sure I could state is a lot of difference and that one will work as well as the other. IF I run upon these next time I am long term storing an item or having a need to collect from my long term, I will compare these closer and report findings.

I'm curious if anyone here has both the F1 shock mount, and one off of a 37 Dodge, and how close they are to the same shape. (I think that's the right year - from pictures I've seen the Ford mount looks like a copy of the much older Dodge one.)

Because I was concerned with the cable failing and leaving me with the aggravation you are experiencing, I installed an emergency cable that works independently of the standard cable. I goes through the left fender liner, I can pull it by reaching up and forward of the front wheel.

If you need the idle speed to be that high for good drivability then you likely have something wrong somewhere. Either your carburetor is not properly adjusted to be too lean, or to fat, or your ignition timing is off. It could also be that your points aren't providing the proper dwell time for good coil performance, which causes weak spark and sometimes maladjusted ignition timing. Another possibility is that you have a vacuum leak somewhere. This will also cause an over lean condition at idle which makes the engine not want to perform correctly at idle.

I have been a member of this great forum for 18 years. Unfortunately, as stated, I must leave. In fact, I ask the forum administrator to remove me as a member. I’m sure he will anyway as this is a highly political statement not allowed on the forum. I leave because I cannot understand how any self-respecting democratic country can elect Trump, a vile human being with so many disgusting qualities. A majority will disagree with me and to those who don’t, I wish you good luck in the storm ahead. You will need it.

The cross bars are screwed into the roof 12 places (and supported on 4 curves and the drip rails), the longitudinal rails bolted to the cross bars, the chair and rider are both belted to the rails. Safer than it looks, but still relieved we encountered no local constabulary on our travels 🙂. Here are a few more photos...

FEF got first in class at the WPC meet today! So happy!