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Thought I would leave a few things here about Arthur, aka Knuckleharley. Have had a few pm conversations with him over the last few years up until he went quiet on the forum some months ago. He had no close family that he had connections with so without that I wanted to leave a bit more about him here as a bit of remembrance. Arthur Hines got past 75. He never thought he would get past 25. In his earlier life he spent some time involved in the Vietnam War ( as you guys know it in the US, or the American War if you are from SE Asia ). As Plymouthy's post shows, he was in MACVSOG. Look it up if you need to...Special Ops then was a top secret group operating across North Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia running offensive ops against the NVA. Mostly 6 man teams running around poisoning their food supply, getting into their ammo dumps and salting them with 'ammo' that exploded when fired, pow snatches, hits on NVA officers etc, etc, etc. If areas got to hot they would send in a Hatchet Force Team to assault the NVA positions. This tended to make them a bit shyer chasing the 6 man teams...On one occasion he remembered being on morning parade with 6 MOH winners. When you consider how hard it is to get medals in covert operations, this says a lot. There were about 30 men in each FOB recon company at any one time. Some months the casualty rate was over 50%. Medal of Honor winner and friend of Arthur's, Franklin Miller, co-wrote a book called "Reflections Of A Warrior" covering these times. Arthur is mentioned a few times in this book. Knuckle has been a member since 2006. He had a bunch of mopars, '33 and '48 Plymouth coupes, '33 Dodge 4dr, '42 Dodge coupe, 49 Chrysler Windsor coupe and a '37 Dodge 4x4 truck. Also a bunch of non mopars - '32, '34, '38 and '53 Fords. Mostly coupes. He had got crook years ago with lymphoma, from all the 'friendly fire' agent orange that drenched him in the jungle. Not having family, he had arranged his estate to leave money to a couple of local charities. One for animals I believe. Anyway, that's a bit about Arthur...RIP.

Yep, I agree - almost idiot proof. Most likely the mismatch of the coil is what is causing the issues. And for some, the coil is a mysterious device.

Very happy with the increased illumination. Replaced the tail/turn signal 1158's and the brake & license plate G-E 68's with LEDs from ledlight.com, and the headlights with Philips Halogen H6006 C1's. Here are the links to the LEDs: 1158's https://www.ledlight.com/ba15d-1158-6-volt-60-smd-5730-dual-filament-reduced-profile.aspx 68's https://www.ledlight.com/ba15s-led-miniature-bulb-8-volt-15-smd-3030.aspx Plug 'n play. I especially like how bright the brake light is in daylight.

Thanks 4 the input everybody. I did buy the kit and flame thrower Coil w/ correct ohms required 4 that unit. I don't like cutting corners. U can't save money and do the job correctly! I enjoy driving my old vehicles and working on them. And plan on doing so as long as I can! T.Y.

Arm chair shade tree mechanic guess is a loose valve adjustment. Better a little loose than to tight. Second SWAG an exhaust leak

Yesterday's job was a 10 hour round trip, I could have driven to Denver in that time, lol.

The one picture of me on the internet ....

look at thread about oil additives before adding anything to oil

sorry about the sideways pics...??

For those that have not upgraded, especially, your rear lights, I also recommend LEDs when and where possible in your build. In some cases they can be very easily detected as not stock and I can see where purist will be hesitant. But, if you enjoy driving your car between shows for points....the few minutes to removed and replace with stock for showing purposes is well worth it in safety to you and your vehicle while on the highways. I had originally had a H3 in my high mounted third light but opted for the less power/heat when I located an LED of sufficient lumens matching the H3. I have a few LEDs in most my builds as the increase in lighting would be beneficial.

https://mymopar.com/?pid=117 Has videos from !946 and up. DJ

I get it for longer periods of non use but that seems like a lot of work for just a winter rest. I started my 48 this past weekend along with 5 other vehicles that hadn't been moved or started since last year. The only one that didn't start as if I had driven it the day before was the 69 sport fury. I had to tap the carb a few times to free up the needle valve

While I won't disagree that no matter how idiot proof one tries to make something a better idiot will come along and mess it up, but installing a Pertronix is almost idiot proof.

I’ve benefitted greatly from Permatex High Performance Thread sealant on all threaded fasteners that touch the coolant. Don’t settle for anything less. I’ve also had no issues when I sprayed the head gasket with Permatex Copper spray. Good stuff.

Yes, you should be able to blow air into the cooling system through that hose unless there is a shut-off valve, and it is closed. You should also have coolant flow out of that hose if you hold the end below the coolant level. If it doesn’t you either have a closed shut-off valve or the coolant passages in the head are plugged. The water pump wouldn’t be able to build any useable pressure at cranking RPM. It’s not a positive displacement pump so it needs RPM to create flow.

trucks run on diesel, driver runs on beer and salsa....

Anyone else have flashbacks of the 55MPH national speed limit days! It works for sure, but I chal!lenge anyone to drive from El Paso to Dallas without speeding

Pictures in the light

https://www.moparmontana.com/tech-faq.html

I would say the 2.33 if it's deep enough. The hub may have a casting number and the axle may have a manufacturer tag on it that may help. There are some odd sized caps out there and you may only find them at a trailer sales and repair. Any place that sells and/or installs trailer hitches should be able to access those odd ones. Take the hub with you. If it's been open to the elements that long you may want to inspect the bearings and seal.