Leaderboard

Weld a washer first for the best weld penetration and heat soak, then a nut to the washer if you have to. Drilling is always my last choice and can still be done if all else fails.

On vacuum, my 46 pulled 19, had a lot of blow by. My rebuilt 56 230 pulls 19 but it has duel carbs. Gauge attached to the windshield vacuum port. My friends rebuilt 51 pulls just over 20 with single carb. On distributors, I have 4 each 2 were IGS, 1 was an IAT, cant remember the other one without a trip to the parts cabinet. But I did post a picture here years ago highliting the differences. One had a high body and a short distributor Cap, one of the others had a lower body casting, with a taller cap, rotors were different, points were different and one had the points mounted on the opposite side of the breaker cam. All reasons to get tune up parts by the number on the tag. And a compelling reason to pull the dist out to address any issues.

Yeah theyre dreaming if they would have disclosed some of the issue I wouldnt have bothered, visited my dad in the area so trip wasnt a total waste

Nice work. For sure TIG is a better process but not everybody has the room to keep and drag around big argon bottles or the investment costs. For the hobbyist (me) a simple and compact wirefeed is just fine for small jobs. Make sure you have a dedicated 20 amp service for your little MIG welder or you wont get far

The gauges should have worked fine. oil and water are mechanical, ammeter doesn't care about voltage and the fuel gauge should be the older style thermostatic type that runs on current flow not voltage.

As the saying goes 90 percent of fuel problems are ignition. I checked the fuel system and even installed my other carb. No luck. I also have a second distributor although not technically correct for my 52. That solved the problem so I’m going to install some tune up parts in the original distributor and see how that goes. Thanks for all the advice.

OH NO you ripped out the thermostat grounding wire......?

2-2-24: okay fellas the Meadowbrook is back in business. There were two problems: 1. The field wire had a break somewhere and was giving spotty continuity. 2. The voltage regulator was bad. I had put a NEW one on and that was bad, which threw me off and forced me to learn a few things. First thing I did was pull off the ground cable from the battery while the car was running. It died. That's a sign something is wrong with the charging system. I tested the generator by first taking the belt off and then running a jumper from the armature post on the gen to the negative battery post. The generator took off spinning, no issues there. Then I tested the VR for ground by running a jumper from the regulator base to the ground on the battery while the car was running. The ammeter did not show a charge so there was no grounding issues with the VR. Then I bypassed the VR by running a jumper from the field terminal to a ground bolt on the back of the generator. The ammeter showed full charge from the generator with the VR bypassed. So the new VR was the issue (and of course the old one initially). I ordered a new VR from eBay and got it today. I reinstalled everything (each connection with a bit of dielectric grease) and then polarized the generator and fired up the car. Immediately the ammeter went to charge as my battery was a tad low. Test drove for an hour. No issues. Thanks for the help, encouragement, and advice everyone. Much appreciated ?

Surprisingly, it's still available, and only 1200 bucks.https://transmissionadapters.com/collections/mopar-1/products/wmo501-1933-1971-mopar-slant-6-to-chevy-automatic-transmission edit" the link says slant 6 but the actual page says FH.

Good point, I was going to buy a floor pan from the Plymouth Doctor, alas, I can no longer do that. If I win the Mega-millions I might try to buy and resurrect some of these old suppliers, lol.

I was thinking the same!

Word was that Wilcap has shut down and not selling their motor/trans adapters any longer but some other company has bought their leftover supplies and last I read 6+ months ago that companies website did not say whether they would continue to make new adpters. Suggest you web search the Wilcap name to see for yourself if interested. Some old aftermarket auto parts makes seem to dropping like fries these days. If you have been planning to buy something from one of the aftermarket suppliers but been stalling, I suggest you get off your - - - and get it done just in case! DJ

Excellent. That changes the character of your original (unedited) post. Some might be concerned about whether or not non-detergent oil is in the engine, be good to find as much recent service history as possible. Enjoy your new ride! P.S. Your first purchase is one of these: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10593924&cc=1486874&pt=10335&jsn=381

Are you buying remotely? ? Sounds great. Now, all you need is a 100+ pictures and a full inspection!

I for one would be interested in seeing the adaption of a GM turbo hydro 350 trans to an original mopar side valve 6...........very interesting........andyd

As a follow-up to my (and another's) '54 Plymouth windshield gasket questions: I finally completed the body and paint work. Using the OEM windshield, (National Auto Glass Association number W-277,) that came off the car, coupled with the Clester's not-so-perfect gasket, I had to have my local glass shop grind 3/16" from the top- and the same 3/16" from the bottom of the windshield for the gasket to fit over the "fence." (Pinch-weld flange, to you younger folks.) It is simply due to the fact that the "Clester's" gasket has a wider rubber area between the glass slot and the mounting (fence) slot, compared to an OEM gasket. So- yes, - the replacement gasket will provide a satisfactory seal and appearance, with some work. Tip: Use strips of duck tape to hold the gasket onto the glass until you wrestle all sides onto the windshield. If not- it _will- slip off. I've done a lot of research, but I still haven't found a proper-fitting gasket- at any price. P.S. I found a replacement gasket extrusion for the rear vision. You have to cut "V" notches into the gasket for both left and right angles at the bottom of the glass and opening. Fit it to the glass to locate the points to notch each side of the gasket, then cut them out -check fit- then bond them closed. _Then,_ you can re-fit the gasket onto the glass to cut to length at the bottom center and bond the ends. A quality, medium-thickness Cyanoacrylate (Super Glue,) applied to one side only, is what I use to perform a strong bond for these. An aerosol spray instant hardener is helpful with this task. Den-