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In 1946, "Uncle Tom" McCahill started performing and reporting on the first real road tests of American cars for American magazine readers in the pages of Mechanix Illustrated. While his technical methods initially were fairly crude (painting quarter-mile marks on rocks and trees and timing his runs with a stopwatch and the car's speedometer), his candor and writing style engaged the public and made him a regular feature in the magazine for the next three decades. He was known for humourous turns of phrase and hilarious similes, as well as riding test cars hard and putting them away wet. Starting as an occasional feature in 1946, Uncle Tom was usually publishing two feature articles per issue by the early '50s, often two road tests of cars. A true "car guy", Uncle Tom tested everything from workaday American family sedans to quirky imports to exotic performance machines. I've discovered that you can read through back issues of Mechanix Illustrated on the Internet Archive (www.archive.org), at least up to 1961. These are mostly B&W scans from microfilmed copies. You can even download the magazines as pdfs or page images. Here is a list I made of all Uncle Tom's road tests of Chrysler automobiles from 1946-54, with links that should open to the exact page of the article (For some reason the scans were named "Today's Homeowner Solutions"). 1946 Chrysler (May 1946): https://archive.org/details/sim_todays-homeowner-solutions_1946-05_36_1/page/54/mode/2up 1946 Dodge (July 1946): https://archive.org/details/sim_todays-homeowner-solutions_1946-07_36_3/page/54/mode/2up 1946 Plymouth (September 1946): https://archive.org/details/sim_todays-homeowner-solutions_1946-09_36_5/page/54/mode/2up 1949 Dodge (June 1949): https://archive.org/details/sim_todays-homeowner-solutions_1949-06_41_2/page/84/mode/2up 1949 Chrysler, DeSoto, and Plymouth (July 1949): https://archive.org/details/sim_todays-homeowner-solutions_1949-07_41_3/page/n91/mode/2up 1950 Plymouth Suburban (April 1950): https://archive.org/details/sim_todays-homeowner-solutions_1950-04_42_6/page/86/mode/2up 1950 Chrysler Station Wagon (January 1951): https://archive.org/details/sim_todays-homeowner-solutions_1951-01_44_3/page/90/mode/2up 1951 Plymouth (March 1951): https://archive.org/details/sim_todays-homeowner-solutions_1951-03_44_5/page/76/mode/2up McCahill wins Speed Title in 1951 Chrysler (April 1951): https://archive.org/details/sim_todays-homeowner-solutions_1951-04_44_6/page/72/mode/2up 1951 DeSoto (August 1951): https://archive.org/details/sim_todays-homeowner-solutions_1951-08_45_4/page/76/mode/2up 1951 Dodge Wayfarer (October 1951): https://archive.org/details/sim_todays-homeowner-solutions_1951-10_45_6/page/76/mode/2up 1952 DeSoto Firedome (August 1952): https://archive.org/details/sim_todays-homeowner-solutions_1952-08_47_4/page/76/mode/2up 1953 Dodge V-8 (April 1953): https://archive.org/details/sim_todays-homeowner-solutions_1953-04_48_6/page/82/mode/2up 1953 Plymouth (June 1953): https://archive.org/details/sim_todays-homeowner-solutions_1953-06_49_2/page/72/mode/2up 1953 Chrysler (August 1953): https://archive.org/details/sim_todays-homeowner-solutions_1953-08_49_4/page/72/mode/2up 1954 Dodge (January 1954): https://archive.org/details/sim_todays-homeowner-solutions_1954-01_50_1/page/80/mode/2up 1954 Chrysler New Yorker (June 1954): https://archive.org/details/sim_todays-homeowner-solutions_1954-06_50_6/page/84/mode/2up?view=theater If you want to see how your favourite car stacked up against its competition, there's a good chance that at some point Uncle Tom tested those cars as well, so this link will enable you to look through the whole compendium of the magazine (which started out as Modern Mechanics and Inventions in 1928, then became Modern Mechanix, and Mechanix Illustrated in 1938). Prewar they didn't seem to do any road test articles, but would do annual surveys of the new models.

Finally got around to installing the Fulton visor I picked up a while back. Getting it painted was the biggest hold up. There is an auto parts store in town that does a good job matching existing colors. Got a pint and three rattle cans made up. I tried one of the rattle cans on one of the inside surfaces. Didn't come out that good. My neighbor is the paint and body guy of our group so I got him to paint it for me. Not perfect but it matches the rest of the old survivor. After it was installed it was time for a drive. Half way out of the shop it died. Points again. Drove it back into the shop with the started. I know that's not good but I didn't have anyone to help me. Today I'll pull the distributor, install new points and go for a drive. Some people don't like the look of these visors but I think it adds a major cool factor to the car. One down side is that I won't be able to take it to the drive through car wash now.

Hi all, HOT day in Connecticut. Morning, and already 80's So I took about a 30 mile trip, mostly primary roads, 35-40 MPH avg. First time at 50... speedy ! Observations and a question. VERY pleased that the Temp read a steady 180' while moving, long idles 200 ish, then back down again to 180. Amp gauge finally registering as I just had the generator checked out and a broken wire repaired. ( more on that later ) OIL, running at 40 lbs, idle at lights 20ish. Now till this long trip I've been in the garage or around the block, few miles at best these past few years while working on the car. It's been 40-60 lbs oil pressure till this long trip. QUESTION, is this my oil relief valve kicking in and filtering the oil ?? Also, at the hottest, and furthest point I stopped for about 15 minutes, and again pleased it started right up. I installed a heat shield under the carb bowl and it seemed to help with past re-start issue.

Problem solved! It turns out that new breakers like these are available from Bussmann and sold on Amazon. They're available in 10 amp and 30 amp which will do just fine. I'll just replace the ones I can't differentiate. New breakers are a good idea anyway. All the Best, Chip

It is interesting what you learn. Some months back I was doing my grocery shopping and when I was putting the bags in my car an older lady came up to me and asked me if that was a 1951 Plymouth. I was surprised she knew, turns out she used to "borrow" her Dad's 51 when she was in HS and she and her girlfriends used to go all sorts of places in it. Told me that was her favorite car, ever. It wasn't my 51, but it evoked memories for her and it was interesting nonetheless.

I recently purchased a 1948 Chrysler New Yorker that was supposed to have been in running and driving condition, but the electrical was disconnected for its fluid drive. Most of the guys who had experience with fluid drives are either dead or retired, or both. I'm rebuilding carb and fuel pump and hope to have it at least running better after I install them. can you drive this fluid drive in 2nd and 3rd driving speeds without having the electrical connected? I know it wont shift as designed and probably will not have kickdown working. Defintitely, more of a project that I wanted to get involved in. Most shops I have worked with dont like or know how to work on pre 55 cars.

Discovered my generator was not working. Brought it to this place near by and they told me it had been there once before. Thier initials , and the year " 75 " was stamped on the housing. 48 years ago ! That's when the PO ( friend of mine ) was getting it on the road. Broken wire inside. I must have tightened the terminal too far. All set now. Cool that this place has been there since 1929. Current owner's grandfather bought it from the original family after working there for years. Just another piece of this puzzle.

I installed this Fulton visor on the 41 Plymouth I had, I felt it was a little more streamlined then the other style of visors that were used.....I also polished the alloy end clamps and made a stronger stainless steel centre bracket........and like a dope sold the car.........duh.....andyd

I've been amazed at times and baffled also by the install of these among other fad options. While they work great for their intention, the times now in my opinion make these more a safety hazard than the cosmetic or cool provides. Back in the day you had very few stop light compared to now. Compounded with this/similar visor on a ratter or like built vehicle where the body is channeled, the roof is chopped and the driver now has his chin buried in his chest and any ability to see upward has been sacrificed to looking forward only and it is a strain even then. You see these guys driving by with this posture of the upper body knowing also that their knees are often sitting much higher than the seat bottom at awkward angles to the steering wheel...the drive is not worth the look but again...just my observation.

I bought one. It attaches to the dash - it will be interesting to see how well it works.

One last post before I end this thread. The mat. I still need to final trim it a bit, and remove the white markings. Not bad for $37. It's not the smooth rubber I was expecting, but kind of sintered together. I can vouch that it's tough. I ended up using my sheet metal shears.

Thanks for the awesome research and time you spent compiling for the Forum. I bought the March 1951 Mechanix Illustrated just for the Plymouth article, only to find someone had cut it out with a razor blade! The eBay seller refunded my $. Now I can read it!

Thank you Todd for the fast response. I should have caught the weird IP address in the registration. All permanently blocked now.

The timing mark on mine was messed up to the point of being indecipherable, so I just hooked up a vacuum gauge and set the timing for maximum and tweaked it slightly from there. I had to dial back just a bit to eliminate spark knock on heavy acceleration. Really, you could get by with just experimenting to find the maximum advance without any extreme knocking. The cheapest modern gasoline is so much better than what these engines were designed for (octane wise) that they will run well over a fairly wide gamut.

My manual says 60 psi is max, 4o to 45 is a good neighborhood for normal operating conditions. The dip to 20 at idle is not a concern. Since you prefilled the filter, make sure you are not over filled. My dad ran his flathead Dodges at the add mark. Said it lessened leakage.

I found this on the internet. I just sent in my information. I hope I get something back. https://www.chryslerclub.org/PDF files/Chrysler_Historical_Build_Record_Request.pdf

tread carefully here as the main thing folks overlook in performance cam installs is that the power on tap at the speeds the engine will see on the street causes for a loss of actual HP on tap at these speeds over stock, so for street use, many often lose. Now driving like you stole it, holding gears longer and keeping the engine in the upper RPM you now will see and feel the addition power. The trade off is not worth it if you do not push the engine....cam change is all about your intended use of the engine...at what levels will you be using the vehicle.....however go radical with the changes and lose all around, moderate change will net you some improvements on the upper end performance and still allow street use without harsh idle and low speed lugging.

I was thinking of building a temporary remote reservoir for when I am bleeding the brakes. I’m down there at the wheel, and I have to keep getting up to top up the reservoir. This thread is giving me some ideas.

For the cars you can use an extra rear cap as the top and you've got a line connection ready to go.

Here is why the paint is "good enough". Some shots of the rest of the truck. That mess is what he put between the fenders and the rest of the truck everywhere. You can see how careful he was with whatever that black stuff is.

Loaded my clan into our ‘53 Dodge for the local celebration. Grandson really enjoyed tossing candy to the crowd.

Thats a good tip on the workout mat from Amazon ..... sounds like something I might try. Something I have been wanting to do is visit my local truck tire shop. I have 2 of them within 1 mile from me I live near a freeway on/off ramp. I want to pick up a couple old junk truck tire inner tubes. .... Just saying a bit thicker then a car inner tube. The rubber they have to pay for disposal, I would be happy to pay a few bucks for them. They make some pretty decent spray on contact cement ..... My idea is to cut a adequate square of rubber, then attach it under the toe board .... A slit for the pedal to move through. Then with the toe board in place, make another one for the top side. I have the dust covers from DCM, I just feel I can do something a little better if I try & do not require 100 point restoration.