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The Gathering of the Faithfull in Middleboro MA is a "celebration of vintage speed" and where you have vintage speed, of course you have flathead MoPars! It was a beautiful day today (not only because the P12 didn't break down on the way like it did the last time) and attached are pics of the vintage speedsters in attendance this group should like.

Nine hours of mountain driving in the Coronet. If that didn’t kill it nothing will lol. Aside from a disc brake conversion it’s as engineered by Mopar. I drive it most of the year but my wife is the one to convince me to take longer trips. I’m pleased and pleasantly surprised by how well it works.

While I'm waiting on the machine shop to get back to me on what needs to be done to the 230 cid motor, I thought I'd experiment with carburetion. I will be using the larger "Power Pack" intake that came with the motor, which came from the factory with the 2bbl Stromberg WW carb, which @Loren really likes. I had earlier purchased Langdon's Stovebolt Weber clone 32/26 2bbl carb for another project, and it's still new in the box. Everyone who has installed the Langdon carb seems to really like it. I was trying to look up the CFM numbers for both to compare, but with no luck. Assuming I did a clean and rebuild of the Stromberg, which carb would be a better choice? This will be used in my '40 Plymouth wagon - no racing, just regular driving.

Better would be the Weber 38/38

You should see what happens when you start a Perkins diesel that has a live mouse nest in the snorkel to the oil cooler.

That is a excellent suggestion. I have never had one done I do not know. I have read in the forums where a few people have had this done. Even on a brand new master cylinder from over sea, leaked from day 1. A stainless steel sleeve installed & now better then new. A sleeved original MC may last the life of the car or at least as long as we live? I can only guess that it is kinda common to figure $100 a hole to have a engine cylinder sleeved. ..... With todays inflation, get a price today & will go up tomorrow. I would imagine a MC would be about the same amount of labor & tooling as a cylinder bore .... comparable in price. Just need to find a shop set up to do it. Possible it may be cheaper, I would not expect it to be any more expensive ..... Just a opinion though. When I was a kid I worked as a mechanics helper at a Texaco gas station. I honed a lot of wheel cylinders doing brake jobs .... master cylinder was always left to the mechanic if needed work. The wheel cylinders depending on how bad they were, clean them up & install new rubber cups. If pitted, we would hone them out & install 1 size larger rubber cups. That was the limit, 1 size larger. ..... If they leaked the customer needed a new wheel cylinder ... hey we tried. My master cylinder is 1 1/4" so I would want to go up 1/16" to 1 5/16" ..... You can see in the photo the cup on the far right. Is all I replaced on my MC. My MC was in good shape, it just needed a good cleaning, & a light hone. I bought a new rubber cup from a local supply store & put it back together & bench bled it. I have a full kit which cost $33 for a backup if needed. The main rubber cup is easy to just substitute a larger one. The cylinder the rubber "sweeper" cup is at the rear of the mc & also 1 1/4" ...... not so easy to replace. If fluid gets too it, & it leaks, you would visually see it leaking out of the rear of the master cylinder. That seal is at the very tail end of the MC, is it pitted & need heavy hone in that area? Will 1 1/4" seal there? I'm guessing all your wear is before that where the main cup rides .... Hone it good, 1/16" larger cup you are good to go. Having the MC sleeved would be the ultimate fix. Rule # 1, Don't get dead! Rule # 2. Play stupid games & win stupid prizes. .... See Rule #1. Use your gut feeling, look at what you have ... make a decision from that.

my question to you is did you order/buy your tune up parts based on year of car or as you should have, by the part number of the distributor. Over the years it is not at all strange or unusual to have distributors changed, thus the NEED to buy by distributor over make and model.

Did you make sure all you now wires are fully seated in the distributor cap? Also read the section on Static Engine Timing on this page: https://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/tech_tips.html/

Close up of line in top edge of distributor housing. 3 out of 4 of my Mopar distributors here, have this line. So apparently not all of them are marked.

Factory setting seen here.

Spark plugs are numbered 1,2,3,4,5,6, going from the front of the engine at the radiator to the rear of the engine at the firewall. The firing order of the engine is 1,5,3,6,2,4. To find #1 TDC, I remove the number 1 sparkplug and put a crumpled piece of tissue paper in the spark plug well. Bump crank the engine and when the paper is blown out of the well the number 1 piston is on the compression stroke. Bring the timing mark on the pulley to align with the pointer on the timing case cover.

Look for a little line scribed into the top metal distributor housing. The Rotor pointed to this machined line when it left the factory. Where #1 is today? Who knows? Lots of folks get it wrong. Could be 180 degrees out. More info to come. We’ll help you.

Rats.......I was hoping for 1/24-25th scale..........I'm a model builder..........used to have my own hobby shop, 1996 to 2016, Scale Automobilia, specialised in plastic cars,trucks & planes.........have built around 90 kits in the past 2 yrs, have 300 or so still to go.....lol.......heres an old pic of the "Tower Of Empty Model Boxes".....its now over twice this....lol...........and a couple of mopars I've built......there isn't many mopars kits unfortunately.........regards, andyd

So, I've had a B3D since the mid-80s. It was is pretty good shape but considered it a retirement project. Unfortunately, a few years back, a very large fir tree completely flattened the cab. I was so disappointed that I didn't even remove the tree until recently. I've been using parts off of it for my other 2 pilothouse projects. My first surprise after all these years, was to find out it is a 1951, not 1952 like the title says. The title used the engine number. I just cleaned off enough of the paint on the door frame tag to find out it was a 51. The 2nd big surprise came this morning when I removed the seat for the first time since I bought it. The pictures below show what I found. It includes a stainless steel right-side parking light bucket and upper trim. Unfortunately. a previous owner drilled a hole in the bottom of the bucket to be able to mount a different light assembly. I guess I should have looked under the seat many years ago.