Mike Fix

I'm responding to this year old and very sad thread to give everyone an update. I reached out to Julie to see if she was able to work anything out about her truck. She said she got an attorney involved. They tried to sell everything to a single buyer but it never happened. If she doesn't sell it soon, she will have it all shipped to Florida. She has found someone in Florida to finish the work for her. She said she would like to get at least half of what she currently has in it. Unfortunately, that would still be about $15K and whoever bought it would still have a full assembly project. I told her if I was richer and closer, I would even consider it. I also told her I would pass that information on in case anyone else here might be interested. She also wanted me to thanks everyone for all their help last year.

I don't know about the 53, but I found the 51 and 52 in a "Dodge Truck Salesmans Book". I would think the 53 would be very close to the same. Here is a link to the book: https://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/salesmans_models/imgcol/index.htm The 116 is on page 7 and says the curb weight is 3150. I needed that information to get the title transferred in Washington State. Hope this helps.

I have a Chrysler truck that is even smaller than the Plymouth Arrow. I didn't build it but it even had an article in Jalopnik about it. https://jalopnik.com/this-matte-black-chrysler-pt-cruiser-pickup-will-haunt-1844001303

"Coming soon to a dealer near you."

No, that wasn't autocorrect. That is the new marketing term for an ammeter on a vehicle with an alternator. "Why just have an old tired generator ammeter when you can have the new, high-powered alternator Altimeter! Soar to new heights without ever leaving the ground!" ?

That should look pretty sharp. I haven't seen any on the larger rear fender Dodges but there are some Ferds around painted like that. You thinking of something like these? red-black.jfif red-black2.jfif

So, I've had a B3D since the mid-80s. It was is pretty good shape but considered it a retirement project. Unfortunately, a few years back, a very large fir tree completely flattened the cab. I was so disappointed that I didn't even remove the tree until recently. I've been using parts off of it for my other 2 pilothouse projects. My first surprise after all these years, was to find out it is a 1951, not 1952 like the title says. The title used the engine number. I just cleaned off enough of the paint on the door frame tag to find out it was a 51. The 2nd big surprise came this morning when I removed the seat for the first time since I bought it. The pictures below show what I found. It includes a stainless steel right-side parking light bucket and upper trim. Unfortunately. a previous owner drilled a hole in the bottom of the bucket to be able to mount a different light assembly. I guess I should have looked under the seat many years ago.

It is a company called Snap Rebuilders. I did a review on it in this forum. I think you can click on my name to see the posts.

I don't know if this will help, but I recently installed a 12V mini gear reduction starter. The web site says it replaces"MCH-6101, MCH-6102, MCH-6206, MCH-6205, MCH-6202, MAW-4041, MCH6305". My truck had a 6201 (not original). It worked for that also.

I can't speak much to the value but I would think that the T214 engine would be more preferred. It is a 230 (from 42-45 trucks) instead of the original 218. T214 230ci 23 inches Dodge Truck WC-51, WC-52, WC-53, WC-54, WC-55, WC-56, WC-57, WC-58, WC-59, WC-60, WC-61, WC-64 1942-1945

Did anyone notice the wheels are large 6-lug split rims? Also, the description says "assembled in Los Angeles and Stockton, California and Warren, Michigan." San Leandro is over 62 miles away from Stockton. How dare they get such minor details wrong ?.

I've had a 1952 B3D for about 40 years. Unfortunately, one of my very large Western fir trees came down across the cab and completely flattened it. I picked up a B3B from BrentB3B (thanks Brent) a while back hoping I could use the cab on the B3D. Unfortunately, the rest of the B3D is now too far gone for anything but parts. Recently, I picked up a very straight and original 1951 B3C. It didn't have a grill so I moved what I had of the grill on the B3D over to the B3C. Luckily, it is stainless steel. I don't have any of the outside pieces and will probably never find any, but I did have some scrap stainless pieces so I made some for now. I had to attach them with stainless screws but that way, there are only tiny holes to address if I decide to change anything. I'm hoping to be able to restore both the B3B and B3C with help from the B3D. As Meatloaf sang, "Two out of Three Ain't Bad". It's probably sacrilegious to be using modern LED strip lights but I like them. Here's a picture of what I have so far:

Surprisingly not. A long extension for the 3/8" drive ratchet slipped right in between the starter and engine. I was able to get the bolt lined up with my fingers.

I'm going to have to try getting into the habit of taking pictures as I do some of this work. It's just not something I've ever done. Here is one I just took this morning. I still nee to go back and "pretty up" the wiring.

I don't know how available it is anymore but there is a blackish colored "grease" that has a high silver content. It is made specifically for electrical contacts. Because of the high silver content, I'm sure it is pretty expensive if it is available at all. Leaving them dry will be okay too.