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I have three great old Mopars but I also own a 1963 Ford Fairlane 500. I’ve owned this car since 1979. It was once a daily driver but became a keeper. Motor was getting tired and I had the original 260 V8 rebuilt nearly two years ago. Yes, those are the right engine colours for the year. Ford engine blue arrived a few years later. Radiator was recored and the leaky transmission checked over and all new gaskets. Seats were always a bit shabby and had after-market solid blue seat covers for years. This last winter I sent off the original covers to SMS in Oregon and they made new ones same as the originals. Took a while but they did nice work. My local upholsterer put them over the original frames with new padding. I got them in the car last Friday. Been driving it lots!! One of my favourite views.

You may be right, but consider the reasons that all instructions for running a compression test include a caution to block the butterflies OPEN. It needs the airflow to build compression.

I put a brand new stock replacement master cylinder on my 47 DeSoto with the Scarebird kit . I removed the valve from the master cylinder as recommended and added an inline 2 lb residual valve to front brakes and 10 lb inline to rear which are drum . The brakes work very well .

depending on how much work you are willing to do yourself and how willing you are to learn about these cars is what is a deciding factor here. you do not sound like you really love this car. something closer and in running condition may be a better start for you. if the hood does not open it is not rusty hinges, something else is holding it closed. without knowing what is under the hood it is a risky buy. why doesn't the seller get the hood open? this is a good complete car for someone to start with.is that person you?your decision capt den

That's good. Get something near home that runs and you can look up under it. Facebook has a marketplace that you can search for vehicles in your area.

Thanks for all responses. The car is near where I am now, but I go back home next week and won’t have time to do anything about it… So, maybe I should just forget it and try to find something closer to home. (I wasn’t looking for a Plymouth, or a car at all when this one caught my eye. I’m really an old truck guy.)

Just ordered the disc kit for my '50 Plymouth, along with the aluminum hubs. I'm planning to replace the master cylinder with a 70s Mustang dual chamber unit, year tbd. I think I'll try gutting the stock m/c and extending the pushrod to the new one, as others have done here. I figure if you're going to upgrade the brakes you might as well do the master as well. My $.02

Was my mother's car. Bottom pans and some side frames underneath rusted. Point is, that it can look nice and still have a lot of work needed underneath.

What you are calling a solenoid is actually a 'Relay' 'Solenoids' are electromagnets. Relays use a solenoid to open or close contacts. Relays are electronic switches. Solenoids are not switches. It sounds like your 'Relay' is not the right one because you have mentioned it is 'clicking' I would install your new 6vdc relay

As said before, look underneath. I bought all the floor panels, rockers and trunk panels for my 58 Dodge Coronet (which I may never get to) and it was $1,000 - 1200. That's just the parts. Check if the rear seat back under the window is still flexible. Sometimes the heat/sun will dry them out. Also that at least the steering wheel rim is solid. My 58 steering wheel just crumbled apart. Bought another one..ouch. Flat Head motors probably $3-4K for a shop to do an overhaul. If that motor isn't running it could get expensive. Don't get into a hurry.

Don't get your heart set on it. When the seller talks about being low balled he wants more than it's worth. I paid $4k for my 51, which was in much better shape, ran, drove, stopped, was registered, etc. Without being able to look under the hood, see if the engine was locked up or not, any missing parts, etc I wouldn't pay more than $1500, offer less bargain up to no more than $1500.

Outfixed: Thanks for the update: so basically I think it is just that the fuel has evaporated in the fuel filter and the lines from the pump to the carb. This is caused by the heat from the engine and the combination of the ethanol gas. If you can get some real old gas not a blend then try that to see if that solves your problem. so all that you came back with are all good signs so just think the evapoartion of the fuel in the lines. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

additional information - flathead starter performance upgrade

Update: Aluminum hubs are still available for the budget kit as an upgrade: https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=64&product_id=282 $319.58

I like the direction your going (disc) but I'm reminded when I was a young guy and did this to my front drums on a 38 Dodge pickup (which I still have) only I used grade 8 bolts with no locktite. I Changed the rears on my 50 to accommodate the mags, I drilled the holes out and pressed lug bolts in.

Your solution seems best. Another option for replacing a 1/2-20 thread is to go up slightly with an M14x1.5 metric thread. The tap drill size is 0.500" so it cleans out the old thread and metric lug nuts are readily available. I measured my original wheels and the lug holes will accommodate the 14mm size. I stumbled on this because I wanted to run chrome lug bolts on my '51 Chrysler and they are not available in 1/2-20 but Audi runs a lug bolt in the metric size.

DOT 5 can make the brakes harder to bleed because of the master being lower than the wheel cylinders. It’s definitely better but be aware of that. DOT 3 is what would have been used when built. If you use it just flush the system every few years and replace the fluid and you’ll be fine. I agree with replacing all components. Use nickel copper line and don’t forget the rubber lines.