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We realise that, for most people on this Forum, the P-15 Picnic USA will be a little more local - and we'd encourage you to support Mark and Greg and join them at their great event in NY in September. But if you're UK-based, here are details of our own event, which will be returning to the location of the very first P-15 Picnic, held way back in 2015. All classic car and truck owners are welcome to join us, with our without your vehicles. We hope to see as many of you as possible on the day. If you're planning to come along, please drop me a PM with your contact info and we'll keep you updated. The P-15 Picnic 2021 Sywell Aviation Museum, NN6 0BN Sunday 3rd October 10.00am – 4.00pm Sywell's historic aerodrome is the perfect location, with its art deco bar and restaurant in the original 1930s airfield clubhouse. The award winning museum is usually closed in October but will be opened especially for us on the day (free admission, but please donate generously). If you fancy treating yourselves to a weekend away, or just an overnight stay, the aerodrome’s magnificent art deco-styled Aviator Hotel has rooms available. For room and/or dinner reservations, call 01604 642111.

Well you can't see me in this video, but I was grinning from ear to ear! First movement under its own power since I got it and probably long since before I was alive. Strapped the battery down to the upper control arm and wired a stick to the accelerator linkage so I could hand operate it and away she went I'll get a shot of the inside here soon while I drive it. I don't have brakes yet and I could turn too fast or all the tools would've fallen out the rocker areas, but oh man it's a good day. Thank you all who have helped me get to this point so far, it means a ton. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BY0ZLReR_P8

Punctuation is your friend.

Seems to me to be the sensible way to go,given your desires and goals. IMHO,you can never go wrong keeping it simple.

I was out with the newbies today too. It was a quickly thrown together show for a gentleman in hospice care. He is a classic car guy and wanted to go to one last car show. I saw a post about it on Facebook. It was a rainy morning, but several cars showed up. I parked next to a nice looking 57 Ford. Several late model Camaros, Mustangs, and Challengers. But the 2 older Corvettes were pretty nice.

Today I finally drove my ‘38 Royal on the hiway. A trip of about 55 miles one way. There was a car event in my area. Finally we are seeing some resemblance of pre-pandemic life. I wanted to go to the car event. It was also a great excuse to test my car outside city limits. Up to today, I had briefly engaged the stock OD to test it. It seemed to work just fine. Today I finally got some considerable time on a divided hiway, OD engaged. I drove a mountain pass. Plenty of driving up and down hills. The Royal seems most comfortable to me at about 55 mph. It will go faster. I had it up to 62. The OD engaged and above 60, she’s not got much power left to overcome wind resistance. Perhaps I should try 60+ without OD. Then the engine revs are a bit higher. Maybe the engine is able to produce a little more torque? Although for me, I have little desire to drive at 60+ mph. I lean more toward the conservative type. Safety is a major factor for me. Stock tires are pretty narrow. Not a lot of rubber on the road. I like the driving experience. Not speed. The car handled fine. No shimmy. No wobble. Steering true. It drove straight and had good road feel. I felt really planted and secure up to 60 mph. I felt I could easily cruise all day, without tiring at 55 mph. Overall, the OD experience was very positive. Lower RPM’s, less buzzy. Fuel conserving I suspect. Climbing long hills on the hi-way she lost some speed. To be expected. The faster you go more power is needed to overcome wind resistance. Diminishing returns so to speak. So with a later 30’s flathead you can only expect so much. I got to thinking about cars and driving in 1938. Owing this Chrysler and cruising at 60 mph, I suspect you’d have been in a class above the majority of car owners. 60 mph in 1938 on public roads was pretty serious business I’d think. I am pretty-well convinced that my Chrysler would benefit from a 4.11 rear end. Based on where I live and drive, the hilly terrain, I think it would be better for me. From memory, I think my car currently has about a 3.9 to 4.0 gear set in it now. I’ve not opened it up to confirm. I’ll keep my eye out for a 4.11 assembly. A few pics from today.

Tonight my son and I rolled out in my ‘38 Chrysler. We met a mixed bag of car enthusiasts on the top floor of a parkade. We chatted with 20 year olds in boosted tuners. 30-somethings in lowered supercharged 2000 and up Mustangs. One 40-ish guy in a nice clean Buick Grand National. I guess being as I turned 50 this year, I solely officially represented the old-timers age demographic. My ‘38 was quite a hit among all age groups, as I too took interest in all their cars. It was a great evening out with my son. He had as much fun as I did. Some of his old highschool contacts were there also. Lots of questions like, “Flathead what? 6V Positive who? Why in the old days were big displacement engine so low on HP? Really, no first gear synchro? What make is your car? Made in Canada! Wow!” My old ‘38 doesn’t have cruise control or navigation. Yet it seems to take us to an ice cream stop every night we go out. My son and I hopefully will be doing several more cruises together this summer. Is there anything better?

Those first drives are classic! They’re almost more fun that the first legal drive on the road.

The 1" bore gives it a bit more pressure, which I like. I shortened the push rod by an inch or inch and a half if I remember. I used 3/16" copper nickel brake line because it's easy to work with. 10mm bubble flare are easy to find on Amazon, Ebay, or local shops (3/16 brake line = 4.7mm brake line) for example https://www.ebay.com/itm/202073979625?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1iy2mAIpMQbizGEeedma0bg27&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=202073979625&targetid=1262906534562&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9014850&poi=&campaignid=12873833206&mkgroupid=123950846602&rlsatarget=pla-1262906534562&abcId=9300536&merchantid=8027054&gclid=Cj0KCQjwl_SHBhCQARIsAFIFRVWu43i-kpAjmiDDnseHaLqX8HUrMHuMcd8ME5mGrTVPUdk4E5rHoNIaAmLcEALw_wcB. Adapters for the 10mm to 1/8"-27 NPT are equally easy to find. I guess 4AN is a thing now too. I'm running stock brakes up front and I have a 90 Cherokee rear axle with stock brakes. I run to a CCP proportioning valve with 10 lbs residual valves on both front and rear. I can't remember the part numbers, I just called CCP and told them what I wanted and they went from there. I'm not sure I needed the proportioning valve as both systems are drum but it wasn't that expensive. I clearly didn't Frankenstein this up on my own. I had a Toyota Master cylinder hanging around on my shop self from my daughter's car and noticed the similarities to my Dodge MC. I search it on here figuring someone else had tried it. Indeed they had.

you willhave to find a good automotive parts house that has lower radiator hoses that are one piece and have the correct opening size and it wil lbe a trail and error setup and you might even have to cut it to fit. Why not go back to the metal tube and the two pieces of rubber hose much easier to repair. Rich Hartung

When bad news is good news? An elaboration on an issue I mentioned in my last post: I've been putting the car through its paces on some longer drives. 4-5 times now it has done the same thing and I've tried to pin down the cause. Under light to moderate acceleration things are fine but if I give it more throttle, like when pulling out into traffic, it does okay for a couple second then feels like it's in neutral. No noises or "thumps", just empty revs. I slow down to about 30 and it picks up and is okay. I'd been studying this quite a bit, reading old threads, etc. I changed the transmission fluid after already topping off the Fluid Drive. I took the top of the governor and cleaned it up (a tiny bit of oil and the points were a little dirty) and checked the fork screw that is under the upper access port on the side. I couldn't find any mention anywhere of what type of screw to expect, and the angles are such that I couldn't see in there from above and I don't think I could if I crawled under. So, I dug out my cheap borescope and took a photo...so now you know! Only a short stubby screwdriver would fit, and it was tight. My thoughts kept turning to internal damage but then, after another test drive this afternoon I did a bit more research and now I'm convinced: I have an old-fashioned worn-out clutch. More money, sure, and it's the one thing on this car that I'm going to have to farm out. (Everything I've done has been in my gravel driveway.) But, I can drive it to the shop (with a light foot) and I feel confident that will remedy the problem. I'll call a mechanic I know Monday, who doesn't mind working on my oddball older stuff, and see if I can talk him into another project. I'll be sure to hand him the shop manual plus print out online discussions explaining how to avoid damaging the Fluid Drive seal.

Just found this thread and just wanted to chime in. Just got my permit about a month ago. While I was working in North Dakota I found a great deal on a good starter bike. Found this 2007 Yamaha Virago 250. It was posted for 1300 and I though it would be good to putter around town on. Met them in Montana and wow what a deal. It only had 550 miles on the odometer. It was basically brand new. Since I have only put about 200 on it but man is it fun. I'll have to work on my own camping rig after seeing some of yours....

that is so primo! you and the little lady getting into it it! Thanks for sharing

"Live Long And Prosper"

A link to the kit rather than a screen shot would be more useful. I think this is the kit you are looking at https://vintageautogarage.com/borg-warner-r10-r11-overdrive-12-volt-complete-kit/ If it is, then no it's not a complete OD setup, it's just the electrics designed for 12v for the most part, other than the cable and manual. You still need the R10 trans.

the gasket at the bottom of the arb should have four slots in it. One of the slots will matach up with a hole in the base. This gasket is the one that is to be used if there is no govener on the car. The carb that you have is a very popular carb. Also remove the carb and make sure that you have the proper gasket and also that there is nothing remaining of an older gasket. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Hopefully it's something simple like the float height. If not, i don't see a reason to replace your carb unless something internally is royally jacked. A good carb kit is 65 bucks from Mike's. If your buddy went through it, you shouldn't need a kit. Keep us posted on your progress. Would be a shame not to be able to give your father in law a ride in his car because of a carb.

Not a big deal, no special tools needed. Tapped off drum gently with hammer, removed seal with seal puller/pry bar. Plan on needing a Speedi sleeve to repair hub and a modern neoprene seal.