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Used some model paint to hand paint the tail lights, hubcaps and Job Rated. Nice to have an artist for a wife who willingly did the work ?

Also the Beehive I had came with a listing for about 10 different brands of filter cartridge which I have somewhere..all US brands but I was able to get a cross reference to some Oz ones, but because the Beehive has fins the car went faster, I was unsure whether to paint red between the fins as the brakes were still stock drums...............lol.............regards, from Oz.......andyd

Inhibited by 4 weeks of hernia recovery time, I am limited to lite duty repairs on the car. So far I have repaired and painted the steering wheel, installed period correct headlamp relay, repair LF +LR lower inner door panels, removed cluster to clean old black material from glass, disassembled dash lite dimmer to clean contacts, today I removed the fuel sender(was stuck on full) , removed rust, cleaned contact and siphoned fuel from tank, reinstalled sender, also removed R. t/l assembly to clean ground surface for proper operation. Baby steps until I get the OK to dive in!!!

Found this kit on a storage shelf, so assembled it for a diversion. Won’t win any ribbon at the fair, but was a nice evening exercise.

Speaking of speedi sleeve, I found another brand that seems to be an equivalent for about half the price. I found the correct Speedi part number on Rock Auto for my crankshaft pulley hub. Then used that for a Google search and found one on the bay. Brand is Sturdi. Time will tell if it wears like the real thing, but it fits and looks great. $19.35 w/tax/shipping. I don't know if they offer a wide range of sizes, but they do have the speedi sleeve PN in the listing. So you don't have to guess at the size once you find that PN.

good job! Looks like it will work well!

Thanks we've seen this and its serving as the inspiration. To make the panels stationary in car we're going to have to find a way to isolate the panels while holding them firmly in place. It will be fun to try even if we fail.

When I converted to 12V I found a bolt in 12V heater blower motor Link to my swap with some added info http://www.im-creator.com/free/yourolddad/the-snipers-nest/blower-motor Now the question is what to do about the wipers? A resistor isn't cutting it and I haven't found a bolt in replacement or anyone that converts a 6V wiper motor to 12V. I might have to go with a motor controller if all else fails. Any leads?

Yes they do

Between doctor visits and various other activities I didn't get a lot of time today to work on the truck as much as I would have liked but I'll take what I can get. Other than reworking the pedal pushrod for the brake MC that project is pretty much done. Now I can start running the various brake lines. I still need to figure out where I want to mount the proportioning valve. It's probably going to end up somewhere back where the original Tee was located on the frame rail. For the past week or so I've been trying to get the rear axle bearings removed from the housing which turned into more of a chore than it should have. I didn't realize the axle seals had a flange on them so when I was trying to use a pry bar style seal puller it was just fighting itself. After watching a few youtube videos I finally realized how to remove the seals and I had them both out in about 3 minutes! The bearings were a different story. The first video I ran across showed a guy using a 3-jaw puller with a slide hammer. That method didn't work, all it did was pull the rollers out of the shell. So, back to youtube and found a video showing a different style of bearing puller. Ordered a Harbor Freight puller set from Amazon cheaper than I could buy it from the local Harbor Freight. Go figure..... The puller arrived today and I tried it on the busted bearing first with no success so I switched to the other bearing and it pulled right out. After thinking about the situation for a little bit I tried a slightly different approach with the busted bearing and it pulled right out as well. Now it's time to get bearings and seals on order. I also removed the pinion nut and pinion yoke so I can replace the pinion seal. Unfortunately the pinion yoke has a nice groove in it from the seal so I'm going to have to find a Speedi-Sleeve for it. In the mean time I dropped the yoke and nut into a tub of Evapo-rust to hopefully turn them into rust free pieces of metal Brad

Finished fabricating the adapter plate today. I opted to use a countersunk bolt on the bottom so I wouldn't have to grind on the master cylinder. The plate is made from 1/2" 6061 aluminum plate. It takes a little finagling but I was able to bolt the plate in place first and then I was able to wiggle the MC into place as well. I still need to weld a section onto the end of the push rod to make up about 5/16" difference in the first MC that I tried. I measured my original MC and it had 1-1/2" of piston stroke. This Wrangler MC seems to have about 1-5/8" stroke. I think that's close enough for government work Brad

I think that's the same machine guys were using to cut their own gaskets.

Hey "squirebill", I love it! Our Dodge M37 at Quincy Illinois for their Veteran Parade last year.

Here's my '49 B1B (with '52 doors) in the 2019 4th of July 2019 parade

ok.....sort of got it......I need practice...lol. 48D

If the filter is bolted to the engine then 3/16 th solid steel or copper lines are fine....if the filter is NOT bolted to the block then you must have some sort of flexible line, ie, stainless braided or rubber line between the filter and block and the oil pressure line also requires a flexible piece somewhere along its route from the block to the gauge.........I had a beehive filter with stainless braided lines.........andyd

Get 2 bolts with the same thread as the trans mounting bolts but longer. Cut the bolt heads off and screw them into the bell housing on a diagonal (for example, top left and bottom right). Use the cut-off bolts as guide pins, slide the trans into position, and then install two original mounting bolts in open holes in the bell housing. Once they are in, remove the guide pin bolts and replace them with regular bolts.