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Filter.... Heard the guy who invented auto correct died last week. May he rust in pi$$.

I hope to see you at Tim's Clements BBQ next spring. ??

I guess I've spent about $3,500 to put it back on the road. Expensive parts were exhausts, mufflers, new door glass, the bed wood and stainless steel bed strips. Not too bad for $3,500 and I get to drive regularly now. ?

Yep, that description is a classic description of accelerator pump issues. Lean on quick acceleration. It is possible to help it a bit by richening the idle mix a bit. That provides more fuel and requires less pump delivery. I would prefer the idle to be under 600 also. I don't know what exact carb you have, but most have an adjustment for pump stroke.

Not exactly. If you stay clear of the mentioned Plymouth wheels then there will be no issues with starter-flywheel-bellhousings. Because the crank flange is 'shorter', using a 218 wheel on a 230 crank will set the ring gear deeper into the bell and thus require the machine work Don shows in the photo for the starter to properly engage.. The face of the small Plymouth crank flange sits right at 1.00" from the face of the block. All other L6 and V8, prior to 1962 (except for the slant-6) measure 1.185". These numbers will vary slightly due to the clearance on the thrust main and whether the crank is then positioned fore, aft, or somewhere in between when measured.

Bolt directly no. Can be used with an adapter and lots of time and money, maybe. I have a GM 700r4 behind a Studebaker v8 in a 56 pickup. But it required an adapter plate, the fabrication of a transmission support cross member, the adaptation of the trans mount to that cross member, the replumbing of the exhaust, the adaptation of a transmission oil cooler as the radiator is not set up for trans cooler lines, The modification of the drive shaft and u joints, modification of throttle linkage and trans control cable, a new speedometer cable, modification of an aftermarket shifter, the wiring of a neutral safety switch, the modification of the floor to clear the unit, and other various and sundry tweaks to get the drive shaft pinion angle correct, etc.

The Imperial Club transferred my filmstrips on the MTSC Special kit A and A1 on the M-5 semi-automatic transmissions of 1946-48. But because I have DeSoto and Plymouth filmstrips that don't relate to Imperial, they won't transfer these. But I might still try to make my own just by running my projector and filming it.

A lotta guys will get Tired of This Thread soon

Love the patina, now Phoenix will have a companion.

Not posted in a while, I guess I've been too busy working on my truck. Here's a few things I've done over the last few months. Cut the steel bed out and replaced it to some new wood. Used poplar from Lowe's and stainless strips from the web Fixed the two side windows with new glass. Fixed all the gauges and sourced a used speedometer All the exterior and gauge and blinkers lights working now Replaced the rear shocks, they were really bad. Cleaned up the interior and made some temporary seat covers. See, I've been busy ?

Gives me the willies just looking at it; can't imagine me getting under that contraption. ?

I was held captive in the hospital jail for the past week with another collapsed lung. All better now.

Hey Don! Glad to see you posting!

I know it's your car and you make the decisions, and I know there are lot of guys on here that are for doing anything and everything to modify these old cars, but I would like to put in my two cents for keeping it original with 6 volts. And I also like the original oil bath air cleaner, even though there are many here who prefer to update that to a paper filter. Sometimes I don't know why the guys who want everything to be modern don't just buy a Dodge Demon or a Plymouth Duster, rather than a 48. I don't mind putting on modern radial tires and modern paint and all that, but just prefer to keep the other things historically correct. It will mean your wiring harness will cost more if you get the correct cloth covered type, but you can keep your original gauges, and radio, clock, etc. You did a very nice job polishing that up. Congrats on getting a great car! Plymouth Builds Great Cars!

Welcome. Saw that car on CL. Personally I like the 6v. Works just fine.

Believe me I understand you. I literally worked on mine every day just so I could keep the momentum going. It is the best thing ever when you get it going down the road. Hardly a day goes by when I don't get at least a big thumbs up from someone. These trucks simply put are the just the best option out there for a rewarding project. They got it all going on.

Good blog entry there Tim. It seems what is old is new again or in other terms, the 45 year ago guy sounds a lot like a certain member of the forum, who fits the bill of what ever he has is clearly the best and the only way to go. Sometimes I wonder if those people ever learn. Clearly the one on the forum hasn't. I wonder if the 4 barrel dude learned his lesson ? Thank you for taking the time to explain multiple carbs and flathead mopar inner workings. As usual I learn more on your blog in one entry, than I do from reading thousands of posts by the want-to-be experts on the open forum. Barb