All Activity

we have to Keep him humble guys Although I have showed this before, I like the custom job he did for me as well Keep up the “ok” work Keven 😂

I suspect that most shops would not want to touch it. First of all, this is not something they are familiar with (extra time, labor, not profit-efficient). And second, if they brake it, they do not want to be responsible Do you have some corrosion issues above the rear glass? You should probably fix those before installing the glass. The metal lip underneath the moldings is often rusted.

What Farmerjon said! These pieces, balls springs, needle rollers, often called smalls, are not typically ebay items. More often they come in a rebuild kit from a transmission company. I have good luck with Border Parts, 619-461-0075, in California as they sell tranny internal parts for lots of models of older American transmissions. Google will be your friend here to source this stuff. Ebay is good for shafts and gears.As Farmerjon said, you might be lucky and be able to get by with just messing with the springs, cleaning and perhaps shimming...and you can do thus without dropping the tranny.

Bobcat from the 80’s!? now you’re talking, I have a M610 variable speed with the infamous leaking jack shafts 😊 But, it still runs and I use it weekly (without the the mascot on the top) Yeap, I am finding out, equipment and diesel trucks are expensive but, I find sure make things easier.

Thanks for the reply. I already ordered some NOS points to see if I can get the correct dwell with them. This is funny, I just watched the same video, yesterday, and also discovered that this is a simple resistance reading...

I have found new production points have rubbing blocks that wear out fast. So yeah, that is probably your issue. As for the analyzer question, 5:27 for the points test, it's a resistance test.

guaranteed never to strip out the threads in the head of a Triton V8

I am quite sure that it is leaking where I think it's leaking. When I had it parked at an incline the rear driver side area of the tank was wet and it looked like it went up to the filler hose connection. Thanks for your input!

Mine is a late '49 model and has the ribbed bumpers. The filler neck does come through the fender and has a rubber grommet. I will take your suggestions into consideration and appreciate your help! I was mainly asking so that I don't miss something.

Congratulations!!

I am honored to have my 52 Cranbrook featured in the June 15th edition of Old Cars Weekly.

Somewhere it stated that the oil fill tube breather needs to be replaced with a sealed cap for a properly operating PCV system.

Yeah, that’s a defect a blind man would find. RIP Champion…

Thank you, Sniper, and everyone else. This AlphaOBD deal looks pretty good from an initial reading of the info on their site, but it's obvious that the manufactures don't want people "messing with" their own vehicles. Seems to me that it's past time for vehicle owners to "take back my car" - I mean that there should be a way for the vehicle owner to manage his or her own vehicle. I know, this 'right' is being taken away for Windows computers as well, but I guess the only way to do that for vehicles is to either pay out the big bucks, or go back to non-computerized vehicles. (Sorry, I'm feeling rather pessimistic this morning.)

Most mirrors have a roll formed edge to hold the glass...VERY tricky to try and pry away and then even trickier to put back w/o the right tooling. Best of luck!

OOPS! Quality Control Sleeping on the Job Again.

A nice clutch of cars in a very nice setting Tim.

Remember, the temperature rating on the thermostat is for when it starts to open, not for how high the operating temp will be. Rule of thumb if I have it right. Over heating at low rpm is linked to lack of air flow. Overheating at high rpm is related to poor coolant circulation. Others let me know if this is backwards.

Definitely very professional work! Everything looks great!

Good job on the windshield! The back window can be a b****r! A glass shop did mine when I replaced the headliner years ago.

took a few minutes after mowing the lawn today to drive a couple of the cars....

Yep... I like that...a working truck and it did work for awhile in the ‘80’s. So far I’ve used a soap concentrate, some cleanser, some lanolin hand cleaner (Joe’s hand cleaner), and then a small amount of citric acid wash diluted applied with 320 wet/dry. It’s slowly deleting the grime and minor rust.

I would agree to a thousand if it was refurbished and in the crate. Rare they are starting to be found in good shape. I have an extra in pieces in a box in the garage. Are all the pieces there...I don’t know...years ago a transmission guy my dad knew put the two together using the best from the two. When you really want it...it will show up for you !

I had to look it up... Never seen it 😄 The hood ain't looking so bad. I bet you could probably get most of the dirt out by wiping it with some wet cloth. My main concern wold probably be the choice of cleaner, to make sure that you do not take the paint right off as well. Otherwise, this is a truck - a working vehicle - it gets dirty. And you can tell people that this is some authentic 1930s dirt... How about that? 😉

Just appalling. Yeah. These front hoods are awkward to handle by yourself. Yes, I put plastic dn and was cleaning a bit on the driver side today. I mulled over my options. It seems that “popping the hood” to check out the engine bay is just about one of the most important parts of having a classic vehicle. At some point I may havta remove it for a proper cleaning. Just not now. Thanks for the reply. I’m starting to feel a little like the Red/Green Show that was on 30 years ago. Ha