49 Dodge Wayfarer (Coupe)

[doctor dirt]

Hello everyone I just purchased a Wayfarer coupe that is restored but remains 100% stock. I've owned MoPar muscle since I was a teenager and my first car was a 49 Plymouth wagon (that I certainly hated back then) so the Wayfarer has a new owner with alot to learn. The car was nicely restored cosmeticly but theres signs that the important "stuff" was neglected! Heres what I'm attacking and that I will need some guidance on.

Clutch lube---drivers side flooring hatch and pour area. Not sure what to use as lube!!!!

Tranny lube---Top left of tranny under dash, pry cap and I need to turn over motor to get to top center? Lube sae 90gear lube or tdh ISO 22?? I've read this searching on google and I'm not comfortable accepting things from a random search.

 

Brake adjustment--I have an old timer that could help set up the system, right now the car is diving into a suicide to the left charge!!!!

 

I've changed the radiator cap (4lb) complete flush and new anti-freeze (50/50) using an older Prestone (green) was used and found a new thermostat (DV 3) that was in the car but in bad shape.

New oil filter and used Joe Gibbs 10/30 non-syn with zinc addition. I uderstand theres a debat as to the zinc amount for the L-head!

 

I changed the rotor and cap (slight cracking) and the key tumblers were shot!!!

 

Well theres more obviously so if anyone can help on the above questions I'd appreciate it, thanx. Gonna try and figure out how to post a few pics, this car has been offered quite abit so it maybe recognized. Mecum had it in 2010 and I think the resto was around 2007! A picture of it shows up when you google a 49 Dodge Wayfarer buss. coupe. thanks very much with any assistance, Doc.

[Carlo]

Beautiful car! I wish I had the financial resources and/or time to do mine that nicely.

I have the original owner's manual for my '49 Wayfarer coupe, so I can help you out with the fluids questions.

Or not? The manual just says that only Mopar fluid drive fluid is to be used! Doesn't specify what that is.

Transmission should take 2 3/4 pints of sae 80 gear oil. I've heard that older vehicles shouldn't use api gl-5 gear oil. Look for gl-4 oil.

Something about a chemical which damages phosphor bronze bushings in gl-5.

Added later, found the following in a post on the antique auto club's forum.

3) Fluid Coupling holds about 3 pints of oil, preferably ISO 32 "tractor hydraulic fluid", or in a pinch SAE 10 no-detergent motor oil. DO NOT USE ATF - IT CAN WRECK THE SEALS !

There is an access cover in the floor-pan on the upper right side of the tranny hump; once that cover is removed, there is a cover plug in the bell housing. Once that plug is out, you should be looking at the fluid coupling. Bump the starter or have a helper turn the engine over by hand, until the filler plug of the fluid coupling lines-up with the access holes. Wipe / blow-away any dirt from around the plug.

Remove the plug with a MAGNETIC socket (use a six-point socket, to lessen chances of rounding the corners on the plug). If you drop the plug inside the bell-housing, you will have quite a bit of work to remove the lower casing to retrieve it.

Interestingly, that post also refers back to this site. It dates from 2009. Edited April 12, 2013 by Carlo

[Merle Coggins]

Use a ISO-32 grade hydraulic fluid in the Fluid Drive unit. Something like a Universal Tractor Hydraulic VG-32.

[doctor dirt]

Thanks, I had been told iso 22 and or 32 would be correct. I'm getting a noise when the clutch is fully engaged, not all the time but enough to get my attention. It seems the "sweet spot" for shifting smoothly is about 80% of the pedal depressed.

 

I also need to address the wipers, they currently don't operate but its very possible that their not hooked up at all! I sustained some pretty debilitating injuries a few years back so getting on my back to investigate under the dash is just a dream these days. My original thought on the wipers was to install an electric motor I had alot of experience with vac systems in the AMX cars and although they weren't terrible I need a very solid working and a efficient system in this car because it will become a driver in time!

Anyone know of any companies offering an upgrade for wiper use keeping with a 6Volt set up?????? If thats not possible maybe I can utilize a 12Volt electric and put an adapter on it??? (adapter is NOT the correct word but my mind right now isn't cooperating with this post hahahaha!!!   I guess thats enough I don't want to over staty my first day welcome!!! thank you much carlo & Merle!! Doc

Edited April 13, 2013 by doctor dirt

[alsancle]

love it!

[pflaming]

To those who like coupes: I was as Turner's wrecking Yard, Fowler, CA on Friday. He has four complete coupes years circa 49./52 Dodge and Plymouth. He has a 'fast back' Dodge / '51 I think. All looked Valley rust free ready for disassembly and restoration. I like that fastback.

 

I will be by his yard next week. If anyone wants pictures, I can get what you want. Send me a pm with your e-mail and I'll do the rest.

 

pflaming

Edited April 13, 2013 by pflaming

[Plymouthy Adams]

go for it Paul...make a good addition to your stable

[Scruffy49]

There is a private all Mopar graveyard closing down in my area, I can give the owner a shout and see if he has any 6v wiper motors. Need to know pretty quick.

[Phil Martin]

My gyromatic trans behind fluid drive has a tag on it to use 10 wt in trans

[Phil Martin]

Should have added the three speed with fluid drive may not need 10 wt in trans

[doctor dirt]

OK, didn't get a chance at the fluid levels because of time today BUT did get the correct old/new thermostat in and the temp gauge is looking good! The wiper motor works, I do NEED the gromets? that are on the arms? coming back to the motor?...........I hope I'm explaining this close to what the hell it is????

The arms are tide off because the gromets are missing, the motor works fine. The clock also works but the fuse was gone, I'm think it was a draw when this car sat!! I know its coming off a 12 month storage and was NOT paid any attention as it came to me. No anti-freeze, no gas, filthy dirty oil and a few leaks!!! 

 

I need the front brake lines, high pressure!!! Suggestions where to get and a specific company or are they comparable?

 

Also I'd hope I could wait but upon closer inspection the bias ply cokers are coked out!!!!! Is the Coker the main supplier? I want to stay with the wide whites on the stock size also. The car does have nice Coker rims (15)..............any suggestions are welcomed!!!   Doc.

[_shel_ny]

Front brake hoses.  # 10595. from most any auto parts store.

 

 

EDIT   $9-12 Rock Auto.   $16 NAPA    $19 Advance

Edited April 13, 2013 by shel_bizzy_48

[TodFitch]

Hello everyone I just purchased a Wayfarer coupe that is restored but remains 100% stock.

 

Nice looking car and it looks like you've got answers to most of your questions already, so I will limit my comment to "restored but remains 100% stock".

 

I think you will find that "restored" means returned to a previous condition, so you don't need the "but": Returning a car to new condition and 100% stock is, literally, restoring it.

[doctor dirt]

Thanks for the info shel_ bizzy_48, I did peak at NAPA offering!!!! todfitch; gotcha, my vocabulary lacks on more than a few subjects I was try to distinguish between a resto mod and stock condition, hows that?  Lots to learn here.

 

Anyone have an idea about the gromets for the wiper motor arms?? thanx again Doc.

[_shel_ny]

EDIT: please disregard any info provided on the grommet. 49-50 vehicles are apparently different than earlier versions.

 

For the grommets you might try this.

 

the 1/2" package is just an example and would not be correct (just the size I had hanging in the garage)

 

 

EDIT: most anything that provides the same results would work.

 

      You need something to fill the area around the wiper pivot (at the motor itself) where the linkage slips on.

     

      You need something between the linkage and the clip that keeps it on the motor pivot.

     

      A grommet would not actually have to snug in on both faces of the linkage. Could be glued, but would be 

      held somewhat in place by the linkage, and clip anyway.

Edited April 21, 2013 by shel_bizzy_48

[doctor dirt]

Mornin' Thanks I thought I could avoid removing the arm to attach the grommets but my mechanic told me this morning that he'll take them off! So I guess I can size it up as their removed!!! I feel like a middle man whose getting second hand info from my mechanic.............................it really stinks to be injured to the point of not being able to peak under a dash!! Thats how it goes now. Again thanks, need to spend some money on rubber now. These tires are a few bucks for sure!!!! Doc.

[BobT-47P15]

Hi.  Nice car.  Do you want radial or old style bias ply tires???

 

Radials will make these old cars handle better and not wander so much due to grooves in the 

pavement, etc.  They now come in a wide white version. 

 

The only negative I have had with wide whites from Coker was I once bought their house

brand "Coker Classics" bias ply......and before

I ever got them on the car the white was turning tan due to bleed thru of the base material. 

 

You can return them to white with BlecheWhite or similar, but is an ongoing fight for some time.

 

I then bought Firestone reproductions, which have been mucho better in that regard. 

 

I personally prefer the moderate width white as used in the mid to late 1950s, as opposed

to the "gangster-walls" of about 4" width.  To each his own on that choice. 

 

Some say the Diamondback radial wide white is a good tire.....but kinda pricey perhaps. 

Llink to their website:  http://www.dbtires.com/

 

Also a link to Universal Tire.........................https://www.universaltire.com/

 

Pic.......the Firestones I happen to like  (bias ply).................

 

 

[doctor dirt]

I'm thinking Radials!!The wide variety of roads here in Florida coiuld be a pain in the butt with bias, cement to black top to shale and grooves everywhere. I'm going to use the car alot an want as good a ride as possible. I'll be talking to Lucas this morning and I will definetly look at Universal too, thanks! Tire prices have jumped up alot and spending a 800.00 to a grand on tires for a passenger car shows me how far that industry has designed its own loop!

The wider whites look good on this car but I do prefer less width and I'm thinking of adding the beauty rings (thin) it has Coker rims on it and their in good condition.

My weeks list;

Tires

Brake lines (on Tues)

Wipers  (match up grommets on Tues)

Fuses for clock, stereo, wipers Tues.

Replace all bulbs

 

 

If I were a bit younger and without broken bones and lots of internal damage I'd love to do my own build on a coupe! But buying a close to complete resto is what I needed so I did pretty good finding this one. thanx BobT,   Doc.

[Young Ed]

If you only want a narrow white wall you can get radials from any tire shop. I have radials on my p15 that have about a 1in white wall(I have it to the inside but its still there)

[_shel_ny]

Clock fuse may be a challenge to find. It is not a common physical size. I ended up ordering mine online from Grainger.

[doctor dirt]

Thanks to all, shel_biz_48,  do you remember the size?

YoungEd, I'm debating the cosmetics on a tire and I'm going back & forth with a 3" white or a red line that will match up nicely!!!

 

Just talked to Diamond thanx to BobT very nice people and the Hankook is a good company. They gave me a nice price on 205/75/15/ as4 model thats a new addition to their line. My choice of a red line or a 3" WW!. Not bad, beats Coker up pretty easily. Universal was about 175.00 more for their comparable tire. Both nice people to deal with!! Once again thanx guys!!   Doc.  

[mrwrstory]

I endorse Diamondback too.  A friend fought w/Coker to get decent tires for several cars and finally went to Diamondbacks.  World of diff. in quality and customer service.  I believe they are in the So East too.

[doctor dirt]

South Carolina to be exact!! Old Bill (as he likes to be called) sent me to the "THEWheelSmith" in Californiaaaaaa for some Beauty rings???? also known as "chrome crap" from my crew here!!! screw em' they'll look pretty sharp on the car.

 

Still can't figure if the 3" WW or "red lines" will look best!!!!!!!.........................might get 2 of each and dress the car in half??????

  left side WW the right red lines.............  HA!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

Any Hints on a rear tail pipe hanger??????? Mines there but the rubber isn't!!!

Edited April 15, 2013 by doctor dirt

[alsancle]

If you are taking votes I say blackwall.

[doctor dirt]

Wife confiscated all the votes................................stinks to get old and weak.........er!            3" WW it is, the next set will be red lines and a dual carb set up!

 

 

 

Looking for front end adjustment specs and a rear tail pipe hanger!! thanx Doc