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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/10/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    What is the fascination with high rpm? After a certain point you are fighting piston speed and more frictional losses than can be overcome in long stroke design. Any thing ever 3800 for a street vehicle is more about testosterone than technology.
  2. 2 points
    With your key on, is there power to the coil? Next is there power to the ignition switch? Check power to the Ammeter. If the wiring harness is original, Power is fed from the starter terminal to the ammeter, from the ammeter to the ignition switch, and from the ignition switch to the coil. Using an test light check power from each component to ground. Wherever you lose power, isolate the component and check the component. Considering the age of the vehicle it could easily be a wiring issue, Old cloth insulation becomes brittle over time and cracks. This can cause shorts and burnt wiring harnesses. The ignition switch can go bad or if the truck was jumped from a 12 volt system, the Ammeter could have been damaged. A quick check of this would be to jumper the ammeter contacts and try to start it. You can also jumper the ignition switch. Here is a wiring diagram that may help you along the way.
  3. 2 points
    59bisquik

    1955 C1B Build Thread

    Stopped by the machine shop today and picked up my manifold. My machinist made me a nice 4bbl adapter for a modern 4bbl carb and also milled the manifold to the larger bores to match. What a difference! ONce I got home, i tossed it on to mock it up and see how the new carb and filter looked too.
  4. 1 point
    Use the search button in the top right corner of your screen and look for a thread called 'hand brake'. Tim (aka 48D) explains the e-brake in the second of his 3 video's in a post on that thread.
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    The Oil Soup

    Engine Cutting Out At High Speed

    The first thing I would check is the fuel filter. It could be partially blocked allowing some fuel through but not enough for high fuel consumption. Cheap and easy.
  7. 1 point
    dpollo

    gasket oil pressure relief valve

    The thickness might make a very slight difference. I do not think I would use a gasket as thick as a pan plug washer. As I recall it is just a composite paper gasket. A brass ring would be fine.
  8. 1 point
    59bisquik

    engine swap upgrade

    In my opinion, it would be a cool period upgrade and would be worth more to me. Matter of fact, I am doing almost the same thing. But as all of the previous guys have posted, it depends on your vision and other buyers if you planned on selling it. Many want it bone stock. Many want it period correct with parts available in those days (vintage engine/tranny swaps) which was the original hot rodding. Lastly and least valuable in MY opinion is modern engines and frames.
  9. 1 point
    johnsartain

    1955 C1B Build Thread

    I am totally envious
  10. 1 point
    48Dodger

    1955 C1B Build Thread

    Yes......at my house...you know, for safe keeping....against ,elves i guess. 48D
  11. 1 point
    John-T-53

    1955 C1B Build Thread

    Very nice! You should move that into the living room for display 'til you put it in. And put xmas lights on it.
  12. 1 point
    thebeebe5

    Time for an overhaul...

    Got as far as checking the flywheel for proper fit and getting a fixture made to accomodate the pully hole so the Sunnen balancer knows the crank orientation. It's bigger than any fixture we've needed to this point. Need to either add or remove about 30g at the back and 15g at the front. Will have to wait til Monday.
  13. 1 point
    Dodgeb4ya

    Moore's Auto Salvage

    $50.00 is a good deal for a NOS trunk handle for a 1950-52 Plymouth! They are hard to find ................. Especially if it's a Mopar handle and not a Regal replacement.
  14. 1 point
    Worden18

    Me and the Meadowbrook

    Dec. 8, 2017: Well fellas, I hate to admit it but I think I'm putting the Meadowbrook away for the winter. Its going to snow tonight, and even if they don't spread salt or sand I don't want snow spraying up into the rust holes and making them bigger. I took it to town and filled it up, then when I got back home I put some Stabile and Heet in the gas tank and topped it off again with some gas from a can. Then I unhooked the battery. Some stats for 2017: We drove it from May 8 - Dec 8 (7 months) and put on 6,532 miles (from the fresh engine rebuild), spent $1,200.00 on gas, and averaged 933 miles a month. The car now has 68,706 miles. I've put on 9,581 miles since I bought it in March of 2016. So from March of 2016 - May 7th 2017 3,049 miles were put on the car. If we get an early spring I'm gonna shoot for 10,000 miles in 2018! I hope to heat up my garage enough during winter to work on the rear brakes, and install a new master cylinder. Otherwise I will wait until the warmer spring weather shows up, then do some of the maintenance that needs to be done before hitting the road again. Its been a great run this year! Pic: final shot before driving it into the garage...
  15. 1 point
    I'll try to get some good pics of the interior to post this weekend; blue molehair. I still need to find a way to clean the stains out of the original headliner; I was thinking of having it professionally dry cleaned... Also, does anyone know how to remove the back deck behind the rear seats? The material is all torn up and I want to reupholster it. Thanks.
  16. 1 point
    52b3b Joe

    48-50 Grill Bars

    Lol, I had to do this, you left me no choice!!! I like both of the grill styles, but I'm a little partial!
  17. 1 point
    Oh, I'd like to make this; to see trucks and put faces to names. I'll have to convince the wife. We have a cabin in Tahoe that we haven't used in 15 years! Hey honey, don't you think we should make a trip out to the cabin this year? Then later at the cabin; "Hey honey, look what I found just down the road in Clements?!"
  18. 1 point
    Worden18

    Me and the Meadowbrook

    Dec 2- Hollidazzle cont. Our feet were cold by the time we made it back to the Meadowbrook. I cranked the heater. We were parked right by the "Dickens Village" which is a really nice little display that my son wished he could play with. It was a fun, toasty ride home, which I remind my son is "night driving". The moon was so bright I think I could've driven with my lights off.
  19. 1 point
    48Dodger

    1955 C1B Build Thread

    My truck is a 1950 with a 500 hp 408 stroker. I boxed the whole frame. I boxed the frame 10g to the mid crossmember, from there 14g to the rear rear crossmember and then 10g to the rear. That gave it enough flex for the natural racing surface (salt). These frames do hide their cracks well....they are usually in the area behind the cab, on top of the frame, near the axle crossmember. Worth looking for. 48D
  20. 1 point
    52b3b Joe

    Whose Truck Got A Workout?

    I put mine to work yesterday taking the doodle bug to a tractor show. With the trailer, I was pulling somewhere north of 4,000 lbs (probably closer to 4,500) It was in the upper 80's and even with the load it ran about 185F which is pretty darn good I think. I ran 55 mph highways doing around 50 mph with it. It did great. People really were snapping their heads around to look! I also added a period correct Kelsey Hayes electric brake controller to the truck for added safety. It look like it belongs in the cab, and it helps get the truck stopped. Taking off, it is a little slow going, but once you are to speed it is easy to maintain even going up over passes. You really need to run the engine up with my three speed to compensate for the large RPM drop from 2-3. It's not excessive but if you don't you struggle in the lower RPM ranges. Keep in mind I have a 3.54 rear end too. On my way home I had my wife take a video of me as I turned the corner by our house.
  21. 0 points
    maybe they were homemade floor supports


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