Cowl Vent Gaskets Revisited . . . Again

[grey beard]

Please don't even THINK of trying to install any of the cowl vent gaskets provided by the regular vendors. They come from the same source and are universally too short by nearly two inches. I have been in the business for many years and thought I could muscle the thing into place. Used the best 3M weatherstrip cement, good clamps and all like that there - even had the whole thing in place for a full day or two - but it eventually pulled loose at each end and made quite a mess to be cleaned up on the fresh paint

If you need a cowl vent gasket, get it from Vintage Power Wagon - it's just $10 and is in one long piece you install with no tension on it at all. Of course, you want the butt splice at the rear center, and as tight as you can get it. Hope this saves some of you from future grief. I seem to be one who must learn everything the hard way. This was no exception. Go figure . . .

[55 Fargo]

Dave I think Roberts also has the 1 piece universal weatherstrip. Thanx for the heads up, I was going to order one of the supposed custom fits, too bad they don't fit, this is not the 1st time I have heard this........Fred

[Don Coatney]

Is the cowl gasket the same for cars and trucks?

[grey beard]

Don,

I really don't know if car and truck cowl vents are the same or not. My original post was with trucks in mind. Can't speak for cars as I am not familiar with them. I know your cars have a bug screen incorporated in the cowl vent, an amenity that the MoPar gods saw fit to delete from Pilothouse trucks. Go figure . . .

Does anybody know a good solvent I can use to remove dry 3-M weatherstrip cement? It's good stuff, and won't budge with lacquer thinner or mineral spirits. Haven't yet tried Goof Off or Xylene on my nice new (gulp) paint job. Still, I've gotta' get this nasty stuff off before I can tackle the one-piece, cut-to-fit one on its way from VPW. Any suggestions?

[wallytoo]

sorry you had bad luck with the formed vent rubber. i installed one this spring in my truck, and it hasn't been a problem. i used blue rtv as the "cement", and used clothespins and bar-clamps to hold the gasket in place until the rtv cured.

[stevenelle]

I got one from Bernbaum that was too short, but has been in place now for 3 months. Used the weatherstripping adhesive and clothespins to secure one side. Then after it was dry, stretched it and glued the remainder in place. Seems pretty secure.

[grey beard]

Like you, I also did one side at a time - allowed two days dry time between sides. Even got the thing in place and it stayed there on its own for a day, but the elastic pull won the day and it pulled loose at each end. I'll install the yard goods stuff with zero tenbsion and have no problems, once I figure out how to clean up all this mess from the old 3-M adhisive I now have on my hands.

Lots of Luck

[wallytoo]

dave,

did it pull away from the "cement", or did it pull the new paint up with it?

and when i installed mine, i installed it all at the same time, not one half first, then the other half. i laid in a bead of rtv blue, started at the front center and worked my way left/right, all the way around to the back center, adding clothespins/bar clamps as i went. it really has held so far. the hardest part of the install was removing/replacing the actual vent cover, as it was hard to reach up under the dash to get at the nut/bolt assy.

wally

[Dennis_MN]

and when i installed mine, I installed it all at the same time, not one half first, then the other half. i laid in a bead of rtv blue, started at the front center and worked my way left/right, all the way around to the back center, adding clothespins/bar clamps as i went. it really has held so far. the hardest part of the install was removing/replacing the actual vent cover, as it was hard to reach up under the dash to get at the nut/bolt assy.

wally

I purchased mine from Roberts and tried to install it with the vent in place but open. I couldn't get the job done. So I removed the cowl vent and like Wally said this was hard to do. First of all, this old guy isn't a skinny kid anymore so I didn't fit between the seat and the gear shift. My next problem was these dang bifocals. I could see the dang nuts up there but I couldn't position my head properly to put the wrench on it. It took a while and I got the inside nuts removed. Next I moved to the outside and had to remove those nuts also. But I did get it off and followed Wallys process. Then I put it all back together and closed it up to add the final clamping. Been good for a year now. I like asking my granddaughter if she would like me to turn on the aircondioner for her.

Dennis

[grey beard]

Finally received and installed the gasket from VPW. It's a one-piece design that you install with zero tension and put the butt seam at the back center position. Went in just fine with no problems.

I still have the one from Roberts that I was unable to install because it is two inches too small. Anyone wants it, I'll send it to you free. Best bet is the one from VPW. After it was installed and cut to fit, I still had an extra foot of the stuff left over. It's longer than you really need for Pilothouse applications. JMHO:)

[John-T-53]

I'm about to install a new seal from VPW....just out of curiosity, which way is up? There's a curved side and a flat side with a lip. The old rubber was way to far gone to figure it out. My guess is the curved side down, lip facing out since the channel bottom is curved...?

Edited December 18, 2010 by John-T-53

[Don Coatney]

I'm about to install a new seal from VPW....just out of curiosity, which way is up? There's a curved side and a flat side with a lip. The old rubber was way to far gone to figure it out. My guess is the curved side down, lip facing out since the channel bottom is curved...?

John;

I dont have your answer but I applaud the fact that you did your homework and found this two year old thread. You have my respect!

[wallytoo]

I'm about to install a new seal from VPW....just out of curiosity, which way is up? There's a curved side and a flat side with a lip. The old rubber was way to far gone to figure it out. My guess is the curved side down, lip facing out since the channel bottom is curved...?

the flat side with the lip does indeed go "up".

[John-T-53]

John;

I dont have your answer but I applaud the fact that you did your homework and found this two year old thread. You have my respect!

Thanks Don...I read more than I write, and try to ressurect old threads whenever possible. Chances are by now, if there's a question, it's already been answered. But we can always talk about it more....

Thanks wallytoo for the response. I installed it this way yesterday, but as expected, I had a hell of a time gluing it down, and the vent is not seating correctly too. I'll have to wait for some nice weather to pull it apart again and figure it out.

[Desotodav]

I had just started working on my cowl vent yesterday when I discovered that the seal that I had received from Andy B appeared to be about 2 inches too small. I came to the conclusion that where better a place to conduct my research than this forum - now it all makes sense!!!

Is it possible that one of you gents that has managed to get their cowl weatherstrip to fit correctly might offer some suggestion as to the best solution to my problem? If so, can you offer up a photo or two?

I am thinking that the weatherstrip (23-61-110) attaches to the underside of the 'lid' (23-61-29) as this process would allow any water that got into the grooved area of the body to reach the drain hole/tube. I believe that filling the grooved body area with the weatherstrip is probably what has caused a lot of vehicles to rust out in this area - so I'd rather get the process right the first time.

All suggestions greatly appreciated!

Desotodav

[Jim Shepard]

Here's what I ran into several years ago when restoring my B2B. This gasket was from Roberts. Needless to say, I sent it back.

[smallblockjunkie]

you can glue one in or you can just get rid of the whole vent

[greg g]

obviously you need ot buy two and cut them in half.

[Merle Coggins]

I thought I had heard that Vintage Power Wagons has vent seal material in a cut to length style. Figure out how long of a piece you need, cut it to length and glue it in place.

Merle

[Desotodav]

My rubber looked the same as in your photo Jim. I have a couple of (short) rubbers here now so I might snip and join them. I'm thinking that the easiest way to glue the rubber to the lid would to be lay the rubber in the channel, put a smear of glue on top, and then close the vent lid down onto the rubber.

Good job by VPW for recognising the deficiencies of other suppliers and coming to the party. Thanks for the comments guys.

Desotodav

[Young Ed]

FYI I've never seen a mopar with the cowl vent gasket glued to the lid. They glue to the body.

[Desotodav]

Thanks for the tip Ed. I would have thought that the rubber glued to the underside of the lid to let the water escape. I should get to fitting the rubber in tomorrow before I have to run off to work. Then some quick work on a wheel cylinder, and it should be ready for a trip to the Engineer to see how we're travelling for getting the truck registered again after about a 20+ year break in registration fees!

Desotodav

[Ron in Ottawa]

Man, I am glad I read this post. I have a cowel vent gasket waiting for installation on my 51 Fargo and it too is about 2 inches too short. I will return it to my supplier and follow your directions to install a long piece.

[HanksB3B]

Thanks for the tip Ed. I would have thought that the rubber glued to the underside of the lid to let the water escape. I should get to fitting the rubber in tomorrow before I have to run off to work. Then some quick work on a wheel cylinder, and it should be ready for a trip to the Engineer to see how we're travelling for getting the truck registered again after about a 20+ year break in registration fees!

Desotodav

At least in the States if you do not (and I didn't) file a Non-Operational claim form for $14, you are responsible to pay for all the previous years registration. Fortunately for me the DMV (screw-ups that they are) lost all record of my truck so I just had to pay for the registration and not all the back charges (like $79 x 20 years). That would have hurt!

Hank

[dontknowitall]

Dave, why do you need an engineer report? If it is stock standard you should be able to get a blue slip and take it to the RTA?

Thanks for the tip Ed. I would have thought that the rubber glued to the underside of the lid to let the water escape. I should get to fitting the rubber in tomorrow before I have to run off to work. Then some quick work on a wheel cylinder, and it should be ready for a trip to the Engineer to see how we're travelling for getting the truck registered again after about a 20+ year break in registration fees!

Desotodav